|
caughtinside
Jun 4, 2004, 10:49 PM
Post #26 of 32
(3535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
In reply to: Once you have placed 100 bolts on some obscure rock in the middle of no where,
100 bolts is a lot of stinking bolts. 2 bucks per bolt if yer lucky.
|
|
|
|
|
asandh
Jun 5, 2004, 3:14 AM
Post #27 of 32
(3535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
|
:wink:
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Jun 7, 2004, 1:05 AM
Post #28 of 32
(3535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
I've taken 15 lead falls on the first bolt I ever placed. Low cruxes suck! :lol:
But I had an experienced bolter to show me the way. My first 100 bolts...I've clipped 'em all! Thanks roughster! 8^)
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Jun 7, 2004, 1:29 AM
Post #29 of 32
(3535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
I knew you had the right stuff when the 1st time we go out climbing I said, "Hey, I think I am going to bolt this ground up!" and you said, "Sounds good", then proceeded to hunker down for an hour + belay without a single complaint. :lol:
The only real comment I have about asandh's statement is today's "obscure rock in the middle of nowhere" could, and most likely will become tomorrow's hot new crag. I say having someone there to guide you while you develop your 1st few routes is more important than just bolting some rock that you think others wouldn't care about (which would most likely not be the case) into submission with the exact type of routes he is suggesting you shouldn't be putting up in the 1st place.
Putting up new routes isn't rocket science, but having a knowledgable second opinion to ask questions or prevent you from making those mistakes in the 1st place is the always a good idea. No matter what, there is a learning curve, but the good news is that no route is above being "fixed".
I just finally redpointed a climb I bolted over 3 years ago (just got on it sporadically over the last 3 years). I was telling Dave, next time out there at that crag with a drill, I want to move one of the bolt placements to make clipping a little easier. It was not from a lack of previewing or cleaning which resulted in it's current location however. I TR'd 3 times, a friend TR'd once, and someone else who was there TR'd as well before I bolted it. Sometimes things sound better in theory than they actually are once the steel is in the wall. Just don't be "above" fixing your mistakes and it will be all good.
|
|
|
|
|
asandh
Jun 7, 2004, 2:32 AM
Post #30 of 32
(3535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2002
Posts: 788
|
:?
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Jun 7, 2004, 3:43 AM
Post #31 of 32
(3535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
In reply to: by "oscure rock" I definitely meant "rock". Something small enough that it won't even be attractive as a boulder problem. I don't think anyone, even with a mentor should "learn" how to place bolts on an actual route. Maybe not everyone needs to place 100 as practice but ........ please do some practice first. The rest of the climbing world is pretty much placing "Blind Trust" in your ability to do it right. I'm not just talking about learning how to locate bolts at a good clipping stance, that CAN be fixed. I've seen so called experienced bolters: 1. crank the bolt down way too tight. over tightening is more dangerous than under. Espcially serious with Rawl/Powers 5 piece 3/8 SS since the max torque is only 20 ft.lbs which is practically nothing. 2. Hammer the h_ll out of a bolt to get it in to a hole that's too tight weakening the bolt do to premature metal fatigue (particularly common with Fixe 3/8 and less than new 3/8 bit since the bolt is really 10mm. 3. place bolts in hollow or loose rock because they didn't know how to test first. 4. placing bolts next to seams. 5. putting replacement bolts one inch (and even 1/2 inch) from the old hole, etc. Lots of different bolts are used out there and each has its own quirks with their associated learning curve. Just do it on a "rock" first to get it down. And the mentor idea is definitely a good one, as long as the mentor knows what he/she is doing. A final note on quality of hardware: I know a few climbers who aren't millionaires but still like to put in tons of routes, so they use cheap hardware. If money is an issue, either beg for handouts from other climbers or put in fewer routes, but don't buy crap.
I think my stance for the concerns listed, all of which are valid, is that a true knowledgable mentor will help you avoid from making those mistakes, as I said above" in the 1st place".
|
|
|
|
|
freakystyley
Jun 12, 2004, 1:35 AM
Post #32 of 32
(3535 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 19, 2003
Posts: 151
|
In reply to: ... Just don't be "above" fixing your mistakes and it will be all good.
Amen to that - there are a lot of dangerous climbs around here because of that very reason. I am all for trad lines, but If a sport goes up - by all means make/keep it safe for all, and not just the people who wired it on TR before bolting.
|
|
|
|
|
|
