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flashsixteen
Jun 9, 2004, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2002
Posts: 159
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Don't shoot. I have searched the forums and from what I was looking at I didn't see anything. In the furture, this title should be clear for searchers. Anyway, I don't have a clue when it comes to aid climbing. I'm a trad climber and everyone tells me that I shouldn't have a problem aiding or knowing what it is, but they aren't aid climbers and they still aren't telling me about it. I don't plan on doing it yet and I have a general idea about it, but I just want to know about it and how to do it. Is there a good website, or a book that anyone here would recommmend, a John Long type recommendation, or something for someone who only knows how to spell it? I don't have Freedom of the Hills, so that probably is the one I need. Preferably a website since I am a broke climber and the money for a book quickly becomes money I can use to buy another tricam ... my climbing disease is still in the passive state. Thanks.
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flashsixteen
Jun 9, 2004, 6:24 PM
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Registered: Feb 6, 2002
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Hmm, you would think I saw that topic ... nope. Thanks.
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jc5462
Jun 12, 2004, 5:32 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2004
Posts: 64
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Try FISH's website, Russ Walling is a very knowledgeable wall climber and he has always had very good how to info on his website. Get "Big Walls" by John Long in the How To Rock Climb series, or Big Wall Climbing by Mike Strassman(?) or try and find a copy of the big wall tech manual made by A5 Adventures and Basic and advanced rockcraft by Royal Robbins. Contact Chessler Books as he sells only books on climbing and exploration and he even deals in used and hard to find books. Freedom of the hills will cover it also.
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coylec
Jun 12, 2004, 6:10 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
Posts: 2024
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My suggestion: Pass The Pitons Pete Index.
Regarding "Stuff You Need and How to Rig It", disregard the suggestion regarding metolius easy daisies. That post refers to the older style metolius adjustibles - the new ones aren't as nice. They are also impossible to release under tension. I'd recommend Yates or Fish adjustables with the ANCRA buckles.
Find a local aid climber and spend some time watching them. There are a lot more toys (read gear) you get to play with, stuff that you typically don't carry on a free rack. Hang out at the North Face at Looking Glass -- you'll find some aid climbers there.
Get your systems dialed at home or low to the ground. Traverses are the trickiest part (for me, anyways), but you can practice them 2 feet off the ground without fear of death.
coylec
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coylec
Jun 12, 2004, 6:19 AM
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Registered: Jul 12, 2003
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From what I've heard, Glass Menagerie at Looking Glass has seen so many climbs its become a C1 with lots of fixed gear. HOWEVER, I haven't climbed it, so that's just rumor -- DON'T jump on it without proper preparation. Lambert and Shull say its C1 as well, yet their topo lists the third pitch as C2 (though the description says "numerous bolts and fixed gear"). There is also an A1 roof listed on the topo, though it may (could/should) have fixed gear. Check with some locals to find its condition.
Its a very popular route and you may be able to find someone in NC who will let you second on it (maybe even lead a few pitches).
coylec
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charley
Jun 12, 2004, 12:34 PM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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An inexpensive way to get books is through the library. My local library participates in the interlibrary loan program. You can order any book and if they can find it, they get it for you. My lib. now charges a buck and a half for postage per book. That is a lot cheaper than buying. Then if you really want to keep it for reference you can buy it.
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