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rasperas
May 30, 2004, 1:29 AM
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Registered: Mar 11, 2004
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I recently sold my kidneys and heart to buy some gear for sport climbing. I live in Scottsdale, AZ, and have never climbed outdoors. I have a friend who will teach me and my partner the basics of sport climbing, for our first couple times, but after that we're on our own. I was flipping through my guidebook, and could only find a couple of sport begginer routes. The guidebook is from '98. Is there a good crag in AZ that has sport routes that can be led by a novice, preferably single pitch? 2) Does the AMC have a lot of begginer outings a year?- Do they mind if you tag along and leech on their topropes? Thanks, I am looking for a place to climb (in AZ of course) that has plentiful bounty of begginer sport routes.
-Matt
P.S.- I apologize if this is supposed to be in Regional Discussion.
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fritzski
May 30, 2004, 1:57 AM
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A good bet for you would be the Queen Creek Canyon area just east of Superior. In particular, the Pond and Upper Devils areas have a lot of good beginner routes.
This time of year the Upper Devils area is great cause its shaded all afternoon. Get Marty Karabin's latest little "white guide" at any climbing store or indoor gym (@$3.95). His latest revision includes some new beginner routes and some older ones he recently retro-bolted to make them safer.
The AMC most likely would not appreciate any moochers jumping on their stuff. But you could always sell a spleen or a pancreas and join up. They'd love to have you along, and you could maybe learn a thing or two in the process.
Good luck!
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climbsomething
May 30, 2004, 2:15 AM
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I'm pretty sure you don't want to be climbing in Phoenix too soon. However, on Mt. Lemmon, at a nice high elevation (bet. 6-8K ft), we have some moderate sport routes at Munchkinland, Ridgeline, and Gumby Wall (hey, *I* didn't name it). There's a 5.4 and a 5.5 at Munchkinland, and some 6s through 8s too (for that matter, 9s 10s and 11+s too) but the quality is hit and miss, esp. for a brand-new leader. Ask around, there's usually a group or two or 10 there. Ridgeline is very popular for novices as well, since it's almost all single-digit climbs, and can get quite crowded on the weekends. Gumby Wall, I think, is the best of the bunch. It's limited (handful of routes) but very friendly for learning to lead, and knockonwood, not crowded. Buckets and more buckets. Lovely view too.
Gumby Wall and Ridgeline are in the Lemmon guidebook. Ridgeline is in the Rock Climbing Arizona book, but that book sucks immensely and is often inaccurate to boot. The moderates at Munchkinland were put up after the Lemmon guide was published, but you can find them on www.climbaz.com. For sheer voume, Munchkinland is best- after you've led what you're comfortable with, there's a slew of stuff at harder grades that you may be able to snag a toprope on. If you wanna feel entirely self-sufficient, try Gumby. If memory serves, there's at least 3 5.6s and a 5.5, all bolted. Don't sound like much but is quite entertaining for what it is.
To the north there's Jacks. The easy routes are spread out but not hard to find or scarce, and are nice beginner climbs. In Flag proper, for sport, you really should be able to climb at least 5.9 or easy .10 before doing anything at the Pit. The Jacks section in Rock Climbing Arizona is minimal. Get the dedicated Jacks book, and again, be ready for the crowds.
I am on the anti-social and paranoid side so I say, skip climbing with a big club and corner yourself a personal mentor. Or at least a charitable individual or two. That's what I did, but then, I am a 23-year-old girl :P
Good luck. Oh, and I'll be moving this to Regional now :P
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punkclimber52
Jun 3, 2004, 9:58 PM
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Lookout Mt. is a nice little hole in the wall crag at 16th St. and Greenway. Goes from 5.7-5.11+, all sport climbs. If you're not comfortable leading you can take a trail around to the top and TR it.
But while your up there watch out for bees. There are two hives that i know of for sure, and i've personally been swarmed by one, and my friend has been swarmed by the other. The bees usually become active as soon as the sun hits them.
The best thing about this crag is that until noon it is totally in the shade. So it's still doable come summer, just gotta get up early.
I usually climb out there during the week in the mornings, no later than 6am. PM me if you want to meet there some morning, I'm game.
oh yeah, and there's a nice little topo by Marty Karabin you can pick up at REI, or i'll just hook ya up with one if you want to meet up sometime.
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gds
Jun 3, 2004, 10:05 PM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: moderate sport routes at Munchkinland Isn't Muchkinland closed...? x
Yes as of now due to the Aspen fire ( I know folks are climbing there but it is officially closed). And Gumby Wall (Barnum Rock) is closed through July for peregrine falcon nesting.
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rocwindnwater
Jun 10, 2004, 5:46 AM
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Registered: Jan 23, 2004
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go to prison camp on mt lemmon. plenty of easy moderate sport routes there - get the mount lemmon guide
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thun
Jun 10, 2004, 6:00 AM
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Registered: Dec 19, 2003
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In reply to: A good bet for you would be the Queen Creek Canyon area just east of Superior.
agreed. i live in texas, but i went to queen creek on a visit to phoenix, and it's pretty sweet.
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climbsomething
Jun 10, 2004, 7:17 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: A good bet for you would be the Queen Creek Canyon area just east of Superior. agreed. i live in texas, but i went to queen creek on a visit to phoenix, and it's pretty sweet.
All these Lemmon closures are so hard to keep up on. And they suck. I heard awhile back that the Rose Canyon area (Munchkinland) was open. Is that just the day use area right by the parking area for the picnickers and rednecks who go hang out at the fetid pond of a lake with their Bud Light? :?
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rudym
Jun 13, 2004, 6:14 PM
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Registered: Oct 8, 2003
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I heard awhile back that the Rose Canyon area (Munchkinland) was open. Is that just the day use area right by the parking area for the picnickers and rednecks who go hang out at the fetid pond of a lake with their Bud Light? :?
I climbed munchkinland yesterday... It was mostly the Cleetus and Betty Lynn crowd parked for the lake and bud light - but the rose canyon gatekeeper didn't stop us when we told him we planned on climbing and walked in with our gear - we had lots of good climbs to ourselves even though the setting was considerably marred by all the fire damage :cry:
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