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mikeb
Mar 8, 2004, 3:35 PM
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What free solos would you consider to be significant for their time, throughout the history of rock climbing?
More recently, I would say Alex Huber's free solo of the Hasse-Brandler route (.12a), Potter's exploits on Fitz Roy, Croft's solo of Astroman in the 80's, and Gullich's solo of Separate Reality could be considered significant.
How about earlier stuff?
mike b.
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dingus
Mar 8, 2004, 3:43 PM
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Older?
John Muir's solos of Cathedral Peak and Mt Ritter
Just about anything done by Norman Clyde
Orland Barthalomew solos the John Muir Trail in winter, 1928 or something.
DMT
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bishopclimber
Mar 8, 2004, 9:04 PM
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JB's freesolos of New Dimensions, and Red Zinger.
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drkodos
Mar 8, 2004, 9:10 PM
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The only ones that have significance to me are the ones I did.
I guess those other guys did some rad sheet, but I never really think of anything in climbing having real significance anyway so what's the dealio......
Significant n.
1. full of meaning.
2. important; momentus
3. having or conveyed a special or hidden meaning; suggestive
4. standing as a sign of something
5. in mathematics, denoting figures standing for numbers.
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drkodos
Mar 8, 2004, 9:19 PM
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In reply to: Older? John Muir's solos of Cathedral Peak and Mt Ritter Just about anything done by Norman Clyde Orland Barthalomew solos the John Muir Trail in winter, 1928 or something. DMT
See, I didn't even know about this type of stuff the first time I climbed without a rope. It just seemed like a natural extension of what we were already doing.
I did not mean to disparage anyone with my above post, but really instead tried to give insight into my own stilted and skewed perspectives instead.
Ignorance is as ignorant does.
ignorant - lacking general education or knowledge; "an ignorant man"; "nescient of contemporary literature"; "an unlearned group incapable of understanding complex issues"; "exhibiting contempt for his unlettered companions"
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pbjosh
Mar 8, 2004, 9:28 PM
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Bachar's solos of The Gift and Father Figure are kinda nutty and historic - whether they're signifigant or not is debatable ad naseum.
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spiffdog
Mar 8, 2004, 9:40 PM
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Henry Barber's early '70's solo of Steck-Salathe.
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alpnclmbr1
Mar 8, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Paul Preuss soloing Campanile Basso 5.9, around 1910
George Winkler was into doing solo FA's before he died in 1887
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drkodos
Mar 8, 2004, 9:57 PM
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Mine.
These guys were all in their element. They knew what they were doing.
Not me. I was way in over my head. Gumby was green with envy of my naivitee, and has maintained that color since! Michael Jackson has refused to answer his calls.
So I maintain, that me free solos where the most significant.
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mreardon
Mar 8, 2004, 10:12 PM
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Any of the mountaineers going solo is significant. In terms of free-climbing solos with nothing to back them up, the events that motivated me are:
Henry Barber - Steck-Salathe
Bachar - New Dimensions
Peter Croft - Astroman
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wallwombat
Mar 8, 2004, 11:26 PM
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Didn't one of the Hubers recently solo a 13d?
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polarwid
Mar 8, 2004, 11:45 PM
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Barber---GORILLA'S DELIGHT in BOULDER CANYON...
Hersey---Damn near every route in ELDO...
Jim Erickson was at the forefront of the free-soloing brigade long before BACHAR and his group came along, read about some of his exploits in the earlier histoies of the BOULDER AREA.
Earl Wiggins---WHIMSICAL DREAMS at TURKEY'S TAIL, along with several loose, chossy, 2000 foot long routes in the BLACK CANYON!
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hardmanknott
Mar 8, 2004, 11:45 PM
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In reply to: Didn't one of the Hubers recently solo a 13d?
It was in one of the Mags a few months ago.
It was a 70 foot limestone route, which to me is much more
impressive than "soloing" a 25 foot bolted boulder problem. (The Fly)
Alex Huber had to downclimb an 11d to get back to the ground.
Hardman Knott
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theboss
Mar 8, 2004, 11:48 PM
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The epic of my compatriot Claudio Barbier who soloed the 5 major routes on the Tre Cime de Lavaredo (Dolomites) within 24 hours on 24/8/1961 !!!
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jc5462
Jun 12, 2004, 6:58 AM
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Charlie Fowler (first to free solo the Diamond)
Derek Hersey Free solos the diamond three times in one afternoon and one was downclimbing! Derek was in a class all by himself.
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joe
Jun 12, 2004, 4:08 PM
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Bachar onsight soloing The Moratorium. he said it was the only time he felt like he was going to die soloing.
my friend Renan, prolly the nicest guy in the whole wide world, soloed Hot Rocks in j-tree this winter.
as far as personal solos go (set phasers for spray)... i once drank a couple of pitchers of beer at the cotton bottom and, spur of the moment, drove up to little cottonwood, and freesoloed satan's corner for my first time. pretty stupid, i know. but i felt absolutely solid, more solid than with a rope. soloing 5.8 isn't a big deal i know but it was one of those days i'll never forget.
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studs
Jun 12, 2004, 5:06 PM
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Greg Cameron soloing The Lost Arrow Chimney in the 70s.
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areyoumydude
Jun 12, 2004, 5:35 PM
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Earl Wiggins on-sight solo and second ascent of Scenic Cruise gets my vote.
My most significant solo would be the S.E. corner on Beacon Rock in a rain storm. Yikes!
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ikefromla
Jun 12, 2004, 6:52 PM
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i know this guy who onsight-solos 13a. me? oh i don't solo.. save for that chossy 5.9 that i use to hang my draws on the hard climb next to it.
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marks
Jun 12, 2004, 9:05 PM
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all the routes in the late 1800's and early 1900's in the uk were soloed.one i cant remember the name of was considered so dangerous at the time it was not recorded ,as being "simply irresponsable" and too out of keeping with the sport
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joe
Jun 13, 2004, 3:13 PM
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i think your level of soloing jumps a few letter grades when your girlfriend dumps you.
angstdrivenclimber4lyfe.
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denmarkbob
Jun 13, 2004, 5:46 PM
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i soloed 2 pitchers of redhook then blew chunks,but they wern't free. :oops:
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clmbr3
Jan 18, 2005, 12:12 PM
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Messner in the Dolomites.
5.10 WAY off the deck in the early 60s.
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cultureshock
Feb 8, 2005, 7:37 AM
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Alex Huber soled a 14a at his home crag. He is the first to solo the grade (5.14) . Thats another question. Who was the first to solo 5.10 , 5.11 , 5.12 , and 5.13??
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bilias
Feb 8, 2005, 7:56 AM
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Derek Hersey - "The Naked Edge"
When asked why: "Because it looked fun."
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