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rocdaug
Jun 16, 2004, 3:02 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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Any good info on this climb? I'm going to to be doing it in August with some people from the Alpine Club and was interested to hear any tid bits of info out there. I've read the one-pager in Alpine Select and some scattered info onm the web but was hoping for a bit more.
thanks
rd
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mrpog
Jun 25, 2004, 3:10 PM
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Eisenhower Tower is very easy with little real climbing. My friend and I did it a few years ago and he climbed the whole thing (including leading his pitches) with his running shoes. There are a few options as described in the Book of Lies (Alpine Select). The Dragon's Back is fun with a bit of exposure. there is a direct start from the North-ish side that offers somewhat more sustained climbing. Once on the wall proper, you have 3 options straight up (good), left and up the horrible gully (bad) or further left still and up the left edge (ok) of the gully on a ridge (look for some anchors, they are there). This meets up with the gully route and climbs the final 2 pitches along the same finishing ridge. There are some fixed stations and and quite a few pins. A small rack with lots of slings will suffice. We used double ropes to make full 50m rappels (I am not sure if 25-30m raps are possible). Downclimbing the route is also an option once off the last two pitches.
A better climb in the vicinity is Brewer's Butress (just around the corner) which climbs comparatively better rock and offers more climbing, less scrambling. I have done Brewers 5 times now and never tire of it. Beauty!!
I hope this helps.
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rocdaug
Jun 25, 2004, 3:58 PM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2003
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thanks. I'll see what I can find about Brewers buttress. and ask what the trip leader has planned.
thanks
rd
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brianinslc
Jun 25, 2004, 4:34 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2002
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In reply to: thanks. I'll see what I can find about Brewers buttress. and ask what the trip leader has planned.
I'll ditto Brewer's as a great route. First pitch is kinda choss, but, quality picks up immensly after, so...
Eisenhower looks fun. Neat position. Looks like a nice climb.
-Brian in SLC
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mrpog
Jun 25, 2004, 5:34 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2004
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I have a great topo in PDF format for Brewers. let me know where I can email it to if you are interested.
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scrambled_legs
Jul 25, 2007, 3:17 PM
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Registered: Feb 3, 2005
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If you choose the straight up line, do you still join up with the left ridge route after the scree bowl or do you continue on the right ridge of the headwall all the way to the summit as depicted in Alpine select? It looks a lot stiffer than 5.4 on that side, more like 5.8, any idea what it goes at or what the pro's like? Do any routes follow the descent bolts, are most of the belay and rap stations bolted/pins?
How many pitches does the climb end up being in total. I always thought it was a 5 pitch climb but ran up to the goats ledge to take a quick look at it and it looked more like 9.
Thanks for the info.
(This post was edited by scrambled_legs on Jul 26, 2007, 4:33 AM)
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