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a3webhog
Jun 17, 2004, 3:51 PM
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I'm a 5.7 trad leader new to multi-pitch looking for a fun, easy route on Tahq. I was considering The Trough, White Maiden's Walkway or Fingertip Traverse.
How would you compare these? Are any/all suitable as a getting started route on Tahquitz?
thx
- webhog
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ntu_soca
Jun 17, 2004, 4:23 PM
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Any of those routes would be good. I think most peoples first leads there are one of those or angel fright. But These are also the most crowded lines. IF you don't want to climb under someone get there early. Also the grades might feel a little stiff until you get the hang of the place. So you might want to start off below your level for a couple climbs. Be safe, and watch for the loose stuff.
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thegreytradster
Jun 18, 2004, 12:37 AM
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If it's an honest 5.7 level you are at I'd start with Angels Fright.
The best finish is the one to the left and up past the one bolt.
The Trough would also be good if there are any doubts. The White Maiden requires a good route finding nose even though no more than 5.1 if done correctly.
Fingertip Traverse would also be a good one. Be carefull with rope management and feet on the jungle ledge. There's a lot of loose crap and people at the base have been injured (seriously) by rocks originating from there.
Get up there before 8:30 for any of those routes!
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asandh
Jun 18, 2004, 3:47 PM
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:)
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tigerbythetail
Jun 19, 2004, 1:06 AM
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As stated earlier -
The Trough - although quite easy it is a good shakedown for multi-pitch climbing and isn't really that popular.
White Maiden's Walkway - this is easy provided you stay true to the line, which is somewhat tricky.
Fingertrip - more involved, so be solid at the grade and have your credit card ready when making reservations.
Other ideas are Angel's Fright (5.5), Jensen's Jaunt (5.6), Left Ski Track (5.6), The Error (5.6) or Sahara Terror (5.7).
Keep in mind that Taquitz is a complex area with sometimes difficult routefinding and that what feels comfortable forty feet up at Josh may seem a lot more heady high up on Tahquitz. There are a number of good easy to moderate multi-pitch crack routes at nearby Suicide which may be a good start if you feel unsure about Tahquitz.
Lastly, keep in mind that Tahquitz is the most popular multi-pitch area in Southern California, so plan accordingly. Get a really early start or consider mid-week, which is far more casual.
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a3webhog
Jun 21, 2004, 5:41 PM
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Thanks for all the beta. We ended up doing White Maidens Walkway. Had a blast!
Thanks
- webhog
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thegreytradster
Jun 21, 2004, 10:36 PM
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In reply to: Thanks for all the beta. We ended up doing White Maidens Walkway. Had a blast! Thanks - webhog
A large block came flying down the right side of that line Saturday morning. Was that from you guys, or more stuff off of The Step?
Tread Lightly!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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a3webhog
Jun 22, 2004, 2:56 AM
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We didnt see/hear anything come down on Saturday. We were on the route pretty much all day too. Must have been around the corner or something.
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addiroids
Jun 22, 2004, 3:57 AM
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No, that wasn't from us on the step, nor was it from the dudes on the flakes, it was from some dude at the base of Super Pooper who was "rearranging stuff" (rocks) on the ledge when he set one a little to far out and it went absolutely flying. I was belaying P1 of the step (after flailing at the crux and having my partner lead it) and saw it crash into that buttress there below us. Damn that was big!!! About 1x2x2 feet. No, about the only thing falling on our route was my onsight ability (damn undercling I wouldn't try!).
But the dude had a girlfriend who lead super pooper. that's pretty good of him!
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag - Lowly 5.9 leader
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