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joshklingbeil
Jun 17, 2004, 12:44 AM
Post #26 of 45
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Yeah let me just flip this binner in the middle of this 5.12 move. I think your waisting your time and your more likely to get more pumped fliping around 12 biners than just clipping the biner and climbing on. Happy Wanking
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alpnclmbr1
Jun 17, 2004, 12:52 AM
Post #27 of 45
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Flipping the lower biner is safer. The problem is that it only really works on extended trad draws or cam slings.
Having sport draws where you can flip the lower biner is unsafe. If you can flip it once then it can flip by itself and crossload itself.
Get a clue people.
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tahoe_rock_master
Jun 17, 2004, 1:58 AM
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Thank You :D
Matt
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xanx
Jun 17, 2004, 2:23 AM
Post #29 of 45
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yeah i'm gonna have to agree w/ those who cite the difficulty and superfluidity of this...
climbing is hard enough on some routes, let alone flipping the biner afterwards!
and if u climb overhung stuff, the rope shouldn't ever unclip anyway.
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gymstud001
Jun 17, 2004, 2:55 AM
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The gym that I climb at makes us clip in with the gate facing out, but i think that was so they could make sure the caribeaner was locked.....
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merock
Jun 17, 2004, 5:05 AM
Post #31 of 45
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In reply to: The gym that I climb at makes us clip in with the gate facing out, but i think that was so they could make sure the caribeaner was locked.....
hahahahahahahaha....... good one
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musicman
Jun 17, 2004, 5:29 AM
Post #32 of 45
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In reply to: What kind of draws are you using? Mine hold the bottom biner in place; you couldn't flip even if you wanted to. -Jay
same with the draws i use, i'm pretty sure the people who make the climbing gear and test it have thought of this and i'm sure if it were safer the tag would say "INCASE OF FREAK FLIP BINERS OVER AFTER CLIPPING!", but, i've not seen that yet, so i'm just gonna have to trust Black Diamon over you
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aireq
Jun 17, 2004, 6:06 AM
Post #33 of 45
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Well mabye if you guys worked on not falling so much then you wouldn't have to worry about what orientation the biner is in :D
Eric
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jt512
Jun 17, 2004, 4:05 PM
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In reply to: Well mabye if you guys worked on not falling so much then you wouldn't have to worry about what orientation the biner is in :D Eric
Hmmm. I keep working on falling more.
-Jay
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crimpandgo
Jun 17, 2004, 4:17 PM
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I have perfected the art of falling. Why stop now. thinking of getting a frequent flyer card for all the miles I log :)
Use the gear the way the manufacturers intended. MUCH safer
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redtail
Jun 17, 2004, 4:23 PM
Post #36 of 45
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I was taught on day one by the instructor to "Clip it and flip it". So the gates were pointed down and out. The reasoning being during a fall the rope and biner get pushed against the wall (of course this is in a vertical or less than vertical situation) and having the gates facing away from the wall made it less likely for the gate to get pushed open. This is for both biners, the pro end as well as the rope end. I got in the habit of clipping and flipping and so I don't even think about it, I just do it automatically. Have I been doing it wrong all these years???
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timstich
Jun 17, 2004, 4:41 PM
Post #37 of 45
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In reply to: I was taught on day one by the instructor to "Clip it and flip it"
I was taught by an instructor to clip it and flip it, too. Except, the flip it part was flipping your friends off.
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mcmartin27
Jun 17, 2004, 4:57 PM
Post #38 of 45
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Thats funny as Sh**... Nice one merock, I knew you had more than a one word vocab... Just pointing out to the people that love come into a discussion read it and feel like posting one word that insults the whole discussion is accomplishing anything at all, but just the same, being succinct about it is very beneficial in the fact that nobody wants to read 3 paragraphs all saying the same thing...
Seriously though... Good one... I would have responded last night but I was too drunk and laughing to hard...
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musicman
Jun 17, 2004, 5:47 PM
Post #39 of 45
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In reply to: In reply to: I was taught on day one by the instructor to "Clip it and flip it" I was taught by an instructor to clip it and flip it, too. Accept, the flip it part was flipping your friends off.
HAHAHA! sounds about right, well, at least how me and my friends climb!
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campo
Jun 18, 2004, 2:12 PM
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Ummmm....why arent you just clipping normally? Me thinks that if the gear companies thought "flipping it" was smart...they would recomend it, yes? Also, that gym instructor that Redtail described should be drug out into the street and shot...for teaching beginners to flip the biner. Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldnt a flip in the wrong direction place the gate facing the heavens for an instant (where you will end up should you fall with the gate facing up)? Also, even if you fell with the gate facing down (before flip is complete), this would be CROSS LOADING, hence leading to an even more dangerous situation that if you would have clipped and went.
The gate should be orienteted opposite the anticipated direction of travel (ie if next bolt is on the left, gate should be facing right on the bolt below it, unless a majority of the moves are to the right, then you might want to clip right, but I go with the bolt rule). Personally, I am getting fed up with these posts...people writing in about clipping draw to rope first, then clipping bolt, now this?!?! Why cant people just train for the climb, rather than worry about the freak chance that the draw will magically open up!
Quit f*$&ing with your gear, and start training...your draws arent going to make you climb any harder!
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asandh
Jun 18, 2004, 3:15 PM
Post #41 of 45
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:)
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boss
Jun 18, 2004, 4:11 PM
Post #42 of 45
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In reply to: BD and others all strongly urged climbers to flip their biners.
They no longer recommend this though, right?
Boss
Edited for grammar issues.
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asandh
Jun 18, 2004, 4:20 PM
Post #43 of 45
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:)
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boss
Jun 18, 2004, 4:28 PM
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The reason I asked if they still recommend is because I climb trad and have never heard of this recommendation. Have I been climbing half that long? The answer is no. I've been climbing for almost 7 years. Just curious as to where you heard the info.
When I call in my shop's next order of gear I will ask.
Boss
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asandh
Jun 18, 2004, 4:39 PM
Post #45 of 45
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Boss:
When you get a current answer please let us know.
I can't imagine the answer would change because the concept is still the same, but you never know.
The whole idea of climbing away from the gate is to prevent the rope unclipping itself in a fall. With the biner flipped, this is impossible so you can climb whichever way you want. Flipping the biner does not change its strength at all.
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