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rjavery10
Jun 22, 2004, 9:37 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2004
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So I just started leading solid 5.9's and 5.10a/b's on Trad. I need to compile a list of good climbs to do next season in this range.
Yes, I have a guide book but I would like some recomendations.
Maybe some stuff that isn't so obvious as Pope's Crack, Touch and Go, Room to Shroom, and the other usual suspects.
Thanks.
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slobmonster
Jun 22, 2004, 2:02 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2003
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Go exploring. One of the best aspects of J-Tree is that you can pretty much just pick a general area, go there, climb what you find, and you will have a great day. In contrast, heading out in the morning with a specific route in mind tends to be silly... you're missing all the great stuff on the periphery. Slow down, spend your full 2 weeks.
Also, look in the index of your guidebook. Routes are organized by grade, as well as alphabetically.
And, also, www.climbingjtree.com.
That said, spend at least a day at the Hemingway buttress. Excellent .9s and .10s right next to one another. Bring a spare rope to fix for the rap and you can just go up, down, up, down, all day long. Warm up on White Lightning and then pick your pleasure.
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brutusofwyde
Jun 22, 2004, 2:46 PM
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7s:
Zigzag second pitch
Drawstring
Pinnacle Stand
Miller Time (Dike Walk below Zondo's Perks)
8s
Deviate with Geronimo Finish
Redline (N Astro Dome)
Split Rock
Orange Flake (Saddle Rocks)
9s:
Waterchute
North Overhang
Damper
Deep Throat
Big Boy
Sidewinder
Ballet
In n' Out
I Can't Believe it's a Girdle
Pete's Handful
Strawberry Jam
10s
Gripped Up the Hole
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thegreytradster
Jun 22, 2004, 3:49 PM
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In reply to: 8s Deviate with Geronimo Finish
Your age is showing, Deviate has been 10a/b or harder for a long time now. A key hold broke off maybe 15 years ago. :wink:
Thats ok I did it when it was an 8 also.
Even after accounting for grade inflation Sidewinder has always been a bit of a sandbag at 9.
Bartlet is more liberal with stars in the under high 10 range than Vogel even though he uses a 3 star system. Anything with 3 stars in Bartlets is well worth it 4 or 5 stars in Vogels. There are plenty off the beaten track.
I won't list em. No point in moving the crowds.
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murf
Jun 22, 2004, 4:53 PM
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
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How about these:
Secret Treaties - OZ - 5.9
Fabio's Crack - Galopago's 5.10a
Six Fingered Fist - The Pyramid, Indian Cove, 5.10a
The Melon Cracker - Valley of Kings, Indian Cove 5.10a
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asandh
Jun 22, 2004, 4:59 PM
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Registered: Nov 13, 2002
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:)
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thomaskeefer
Jun 22, 2004, 5:11 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2002
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Orphan is an amazing route!! I did that after clibming in josh for five years or so and then wondered how the hell I missed it before. The coolest thing was that we did it and then another person that was hanging out with us wanted to give it a run and all three of us pulled through the upper o/w and chimney completely differently!!!
Even though there is a ton of hype... Sail Away is a great route and you CAN NOT miss room to shroom or bird of fire..
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jowanky
Jun 22, 2004, 5:27 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2003
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Exorcist
Big Mo
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brutusofwyde
Jun 22, 2004, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: you're not a Josh 5.9 climber until you've lead the Orphan. 4 star trad !!!!
I didn't list it because I assumed it was a standard.
I would also add Loony Toons out on Rock Hudson.
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telemarkist
Jun 22, 2004, 6:47 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2003
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go do the comic book or go to the hall of horrors and along with the exorcist you could do diamond dogs and dog day afternoon. the hemmingway buttress suggestion is also a good idea. you could also go out to steve canyon for the super roof and as a bonus you can do the hobbit roof on the way.
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jdouble
Jun 22, 2004, 7:35 PM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2004
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Heart and Soul
Tax Man
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rjavery10
Jun 23, 2004, 10:21 AM
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Registered: May 25, 2004
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Thanks for the suggestions guys.
I have lead Orphan. I did it in December when it was like 10 degrees outside at 4pm or so. I think it is 5.10+ when it is really cold out there.
Some of these I never would have looked at because of the lack of stars in the Vogel guide. But thats why I asked.
Keep em coming.
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