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musicman
Jun 27, 2004, 9:20 PM
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so, we've all heard of the 11 year old kid who redpointed a 14a, well, me and my friend were talking about this, he says that he's gonna start getting worse as he goes through puberty because he'll be growing real fast and all these changes will be made to his body, i somewhat agreed withhim, and weather or not he does get slightly worse in the next 5 or 6 years he definetly has a good head start!
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fingerjam
Jun 27, 2004, 9:21 PM
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Yeah, Ive been goin downhill. I donno if its cuz I am getting lazier, or its puberty. Either way, Ive been finding my self out too late to climb, and never up early enough to climb. No way in hell ima climb in the heat of the day.
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jcr
Jun 27, 2004, 10:38 PM
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I guess changes WILL happen but, look at me for example I started just a year ago when I was 23, and I wouldve killed to know and have the experience adam ondra will have when he's 23.
JC
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aireq
Jun 27, 2004, 11:02 PM
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I don't think it's the physical changes that are going to affect him. I think he'll just forget about climbing because he's too distracted with girls. Of course climber chicks are hot, so I guess it could go either way :D
Aireq
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skecthballer
Jun 28, 2004, 12:15 AM
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it probly wont affect him at all, if it does affect him somehow it will probly jsut make him stronger
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drubt
Jun 28, 2004, 12:49 AM
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stronger maybe but heavier also, strength to weight ratio will be much different and those little hands will now be much bigger which makes holding onto little holds a little harder. however as far as experience and knowing good footwork and balancing techniques go that will be great. i guess it's kind of like diminishing returns.
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xanx
Jun 28, 2004, 1:35 AM
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everyone's body reacts differently. some people will just get disgustingly strong as the testosterone kicks in. other people might get too heavy or bulky or just plain big and won't be able to climb as well.
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drrock
Jun 28, 2004, 1:55 AM
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edit
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climb_plastic
Jun 28, 2004, 1:56 AM
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11 years old is really young. I see a lot of 11 year olds climbing and I always think they'll get better because their still so small and young. I still think some of the not-so-young climbers like Graham, Pringle etc. will still get better....or are they too old to get better? Heck I still think I can get better and I'm in my 30s. Oh and we have a 13 year old kid in the gym working on a 5.13 and I told him he'll be able to get 13s pretty soon...is that true or should I tell him that if he can't climb it now he'll never be able to because he'll get worse as he get's older. That's ridiculous, I'm pretty sure he'll be doing 13s by next year...and hopefully I will too.
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curt
Jun 28, 2004, 2:11 AM
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11 is really young. Puberty may or may not effect physical changes related to his strength to weight ratio. However, as with world class gymnasts, I would be concerned about the cumulative effects of injuries this kid may experience--since he is pulling so hard now.
By age 18 his elbows, shoulders, knees and other parts may be shot. Hopefully not, of course.
Curt
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musicman
Jun 28, 2004, 3:58 AM
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In reply to: I guess changes WILL happen but, look at me for example I started just a year ago when I was 23, and I wouldve killed to know and have the experience adam ondra will have when he's 23. JC
exactly my point, of course all that experience will be good, but his body will be changing so fast, not even the 'strength to size ratio' or whatever, but he's just gonna be alot more clumsy, i wasn't used to growing like 2 inches a month, he thinks he'll be able to get his leg up to something, but his flexibility won't be as good and he'll have alot more leg to haul around, but like i said before, i wouldn't mind having a head start, and to curt, i definetly agree, his body will be shot when he's older, but, who knows, if he's careful he could last longer than you expect, i didn't expect a 11 year to redpoint 14a, but it happened, there will be un-avoidable injuries/soreness from climbing all the time, but, who knows, but i definelty think he's gonna need to wait awhile before getting too many more 14's in
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mrtristan
Jun 28, 2004, 4:03 AM
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Yeah I think he'll go downhill. I hope he won't cuz that would be freaking awesome if he just kept getting better and better. He might get some more .14s, but I think he'll plateau, then drop off. Bummer.
Tristan
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cgranite
Jun 28, 2004, 4:22 AM
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It's like Chris Sharma said. Growing and gaining weight helped him climb stronger. If you don't stop climbing while you develop, then you will probably become a better adapted climber IMP.
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grayhghost
Jun 28, 2004, 4:33 AM
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can anyone say K-A-T-I-E B-R-O-W-N ?
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neadamthal
Jul 3, 2004, 9:09 PM
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sports all develop different muscle groups reflecting the demands it places on the body.
puberty can push the body further into a physical shape or specialized structure... so if he keeps climbing like he has been through his puberty his body will adapt to a shape proportion and muscle group strengths geared towards climbing movement.
might or might not. i just think he'd better keep climbing through puberty if he hopes to continue his race through the grades afterward
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flipnfall
Jul 3, 2004, 9:42 PM
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I'm 32 and don't have any facial hair to speak of. Does that mean I missed puberty? Oh wait, I just forgot. My mom was Cherokee. Never mind.
:wink:
GT
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dono169
Jul 4, 2004, 12:06 AM
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Puberty shouldn't be a negative for him, he obviously loves climbing, so the additional muscles growth/ wieght will be formatted to climbing and he will have more power and more experience.
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