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munckee
Jun 5, 2004, 5:09 PM
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Considering hitting Longs on July 6 via one of the easier routes (5.5-5.6 range). When I called the ranger station to request a campsite in the boulder field, I was told to "expect snow". To what extent can I expect snow?
I don't want to hit anything that requires an ice axe or crampons, but I can handle crossing some snow fields, etc. (my partner doesn't have any expeience with ice axe, etc and I don't want to get into it with him).
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flamer
Jun 5, 2004, 5:12 PM
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It all depends on the snow year. This year (and the last few) have been very dry. I would guess you'll be fine in early july. There will probably be some snow but not enough to worry about. What route were you thinking of? This makes a difference as well...
josh
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munckee
Jun 5, 2004, 5:14 PM
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In reply to: It all depends on the snow year. This year (and the last few) have been very dry. I would guess you'll be fine in early july. There will probably be some snow but not enough to worry about. What route were you thinking of? This makes a difference as well... josh
Looking at Alexander's Chimney, the Cable Route, or the Keyhole Ridge. Kinda leaning toward Keyhole Ridge unless someone has some suggestions for or against...
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munckee
Jun 29, 2004, 2:17 AM
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Can anyone offer an update on snow conditions? Hoping for an ascent of the keyhole ridge and a descent of the keyhole on July 6.
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dm
Jun 29, 2004, 2:48 AM
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munckee,
wanted to say hello to another climber from Austin, TX.
Since it sounds that one of you knows how to use ice axe I'd suggest bringing one ice axe for two. In the worst case you can always give your partner a belay. Once you get to the base of your climb you'll probably have a better idea if you need an ice axe or not.
We did Ellingwood Arete (which is south of where you will be) a little over a week ago and the climb was snow free but the descent involved some snow; nothing to warrant an ice ax though if you're used to snow and you are not dealing with it early in the morning when it's frozen. Not being familiar with Longs Peak routes don't want to say anything specific but I'd pay close attention to what Gerry Roach says about snow conditions on the climb (I'm assuming you have the book).
In reply to: Can anyone offer an update on snow conditions? Hoping for an ascent of the keyhole ridge and a descent of the keyhole on July 6. |
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coomer
Jun 29, 2004, 5:59 AM
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In reply to: It all depends on the snow year. This year (and the last few) have been very dry. I would guess you'll be fine in early july. There will probably be some snow but not enough to worry about. What route were you thinking of? This makes a difference as well... josh
Uhm, where have you been? April and May of this year brought more snow to the area than the rest of the entire year... AND it snowed up there this weekend... AND it's been considerably wet the past couple of weeks. Are you really located in Denver???
As far as current conditions- check out
http://www.cmschool.com/conditions.asp
They usually update about once a week on conditions- you can also drop them an email about a specific route and they'll pump you full of all the beta they have. I haven't been up to the park since then end of may- and not near the diamond since March so I'll refrain from posting "guesses" beyond the facts stated.
Cheers
e
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munckee
Jun 29, 2004, 7:29 PM
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Not quite mountain beta, but how are road conditions right now? We're scheduled to leave from Texas tomorrow morning, but at this rate we may need a boat to leave the driveway.
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okieterry
Jun 29, 2004, 8:22 PM
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Whoa....every year is different. I was up there last week and let me tell you there was mucho snow and ice. It was tough just hiking to the top.
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anykineclimb
Jun 29, 2004, 8:37 PM
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In reply to: Can anyone offer an update on snow conditions? Hoping for an ascent of the keyhole ridge and a descent of the keyhole on July 6.
Umm, why not call the Ranger station? I'm sure they have aprety good idea on conditions... just a hunch though :wink:
My guess would be that theres plenty of snow up there the way the past 3 weeks have been out here. But then again, its gonna be pretty warm this week.
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munckee
Jun 29, 2004, 8:51 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Can anyone offer an update on snow conditions? Hoping for an ascent of the keyhole ridge and a descent of the keyhole on July 6. Umm, why not call the Ranger station? I'm sure they have aprety good idea on conditions... just a hunch though :wink: My guess would be that theres plenty of snow up there the way the past 3 weeks have been out here. But then again, its gonna be pretty warm this week.
Yeah, I'm going to talk to rangers as we get closer. Just wanted to have a few opinions though since it seems that some forum members have been on/around the mountain recently.
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flamer
Jun 29, 2004, 11:30 PM
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In reply to: Uhm, where have you been? April and May of this year brought more snow to the area than the rest of the entire year... AND it snowed up there this weekend... AND it's been considerably wet the past couple of weeks. Are you really located in Denver???
Yes, I'm in Denver. And you're right, April and May where especially snowy.
But as you said, those 2 months were more snowy that the rest of the year , which was quite dry...so average would be what? Guess it depends on your opinion.
Here's what I can tell you currently. I was up there a couple of weeks ago and there was still plenty of snow. However if you want to do keyhole ridge, you should be fine without an axe. You might WANT one but could get by without it. The last couple of weeks have been crazt wet- reminds me of 1995.
Locals are telling me that it has been snowing up high but nothing that is making a difference...it all melts quickly.
I'll be soloing a route on the other side of the park in a day or 2, I'll look up towards longs and give you a distant report in acouple of days....
josh
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munckee
Jun 29, 2004, 11:43 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Uhm, where have you been? April and May of this year brought more snow to the area than the rest of the entire year... AND it snowed up there this weekend... AND it's been considerably wet the past couple of weeks. Are you really located in Denver??? Yes, I'm in Denver. And you're right, April and May where especially snowy. But as you said, those 2 months were more snowy that the rest of the year , which was quite dry...so average would be what? Guess it depends on your opinion. Here's what I can tell you currently. I was up there a couple of weeks ago and there was still plenty of snow. However if you want to do keyhole ridge, you should be fine without an axe. You might WANT one but could get by without it. The last couple of weeks have been crazt wet- reminds me of 1995. Locals are telling me that it has been snowing up high but nothing that is making a difference...it all melts quickly. I'll be soloing a route on the other side of the park in a day or 2, I'll look up towards longs and give you a distant report in acouple of days.... josh
Thanks for the info Josh. My understanding is that the keyhole ridge is looking pretty good. However, I've heard mixed reviews on the conditions of the keyhole for the descent. None of my guide books say much about an alternative descent route either, so I'm kinda stuck. Figured I'd get some real-time beta once we get to the park.
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flamer
Jun 30, 2004, 1:37 AM
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In reply to: Thanks for the info Josh. My understanding is that the keyhole ridge is looking pretty good. However, I've heard mixed reviews on the conditions of the keyhole for the descent. None of my guide books say much about an alternative descent route either, so I'm kinda stuck. Figured I'd get some real-time beta once we get to the park.
Good idea.
Don't put too much stock in what the rangers have to say...they are trained to tell you it's worse than it is. DO talk to them though.
Your best bet would be to talk to the CMS guide's.
josh
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munckee
Jun 30, 2004, 1:40 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: Thanks for the info Josh. My understanding is that the keyhole ridge is looking pretty good. However, I've heard mixed reviews on the conditions of the keyhole for the descent. None of my guide books say much about an alternative descent route either, so I'm kinda stuck. Figured I'd get some real-time beta once we get to the park. Good idea. Don't put too much stock in what the rangers have to say...they are trained to tell you it's worse than it is. DO talk to them though. Your best bet would be to talk to the CMS guide's. josh
Yeah, everyone says "call the rangers", but I always get the feeling that they assume you're a "typical tourist" looking to hike the keyhole.
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coomer
Jun 30, 2004, 3:28 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: Thanks for the info Josh. My understanding is that the keyhole ridge is looking pretty good. However, I've heard mixed reviews on the conditions of the keyhole for the descent. None of my guide books say much about an alternative descent route either, so I'm kinda stuck. Figured I'd get some real-time beta once we get to the park. Good idea. Don't put too much stock in what the rangers have to say...they are trained to tell you it's worse than it is. DO talk to them though. Your best bet would be to talk to the CMS guide's. josh Yeah, everyone says "call the rangers", but I always get the feeling that they assume you're a "typical tourist" looking to hike the keyhole.
That's why it is wayyy better to give the guys at CMS a call. They guide people up multiple Long's routes every week.
Friend just guided a client up the North Face on Monday- said there was more snow on Long's then the middle of March.
So, as I have been continually saying- it's definitely more snow than average this time of year. Who knows what it will be like 2 or 3 weeks from now- things are crazy weather wise right now. And, CMS is probably your best bet for actual route condition beta as they are actually climbing the routes on a regular basis- as opposed to the rangers- you can also tell them your experience level and they will probably advise you accrodingly.
I soloed Dream Weaver this winter- and they gave me excellent conditions info by email the day before I headed out. Beta was dead on.
Cheers
Eric
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alpinestylist
Jun 30, 2004, 4:22 AM
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Who let Coomer out?
Dude, just got some looks at DC...wicked. I lost your number, but IM around for a spell.
Holla,
Brent
PS-should be sneaker weather in july, keyhole ridge might be all rock by then. Been rainy, but snow? Agreed, call CMS.
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coomer
Jul 1, 2004, 12:14 AM
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Bee-yotch!
In reply to: Who let Coomer out? Dude, just got some looks at DC...wicked. I lost your number, but IM around for a spell. Holla, Brent PS-should be sneaker weather in july, keyhole ridge might be all rock by then. Been rainy, but snow? Agreed, call CMS.
DC?? You lost me.
I'll get you my number today. Interviwing for a job tomorrow- but still looking to get out. Been out a bit, but still not near as much as I'd like. Was supposed to be up at Lumpy today, but bailed for this interview that ended up getting re-scheduled for tomorrow.
Jonny was just on Longs- said there was more snow up there than when he did D7 in March.
Late
e
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flamer
Jul 1, 2004, 8:23 PM
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Ok just got back from Estes and a solo of Blitzen ridge.
Dude there is a $hit ton of snow up there!!
Everything is wet...word is it would take 3 straight days of sun to dry out lumpy!!
The route I did was not only wet but the top 1500' were covered in snow...it was interesting.
Good luck on what ever you climb bro.
josh
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bobd1953
Jul 1, 2004, 9:32 PM
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In reply to: Everything is wet...word is it would take 3 straight days of sun to dry out lumpy!!
Did J-Crack yesterday before the rain hit. The headwall was a little wet as was the fourth pitch. Been snaked the last two-weeks on going to the High Peaks because of the rain. Lumpy was fairly dry. Hit an east-facing cliff first ( the Nose on Sundance). Things are supposed to dry out next week.
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alpinestylist
Jul 1, 2004, 9:37 PM
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Coom dog,
DC= Disorderly Conduct. Saw it from Space, they are close at the top, no?
Longs looks pretty wintery today. Can't believe it is July. Lumpy is damp in spots, if it doesnt rain...if it doess then it is real wet...lol.
Maybe sneakers is a bit optimistic, but it will happen.
Josh, been jonesin to get up Ypsilon, glad yo uhad a good time.
Eric- fully in hardcore dirtbag mode. Van is busted...hope the interview went well. Always found plasma physics to be a bit pedestrian, but I bet you can find a niche. LMFAO!
Holla at your boy,
Brent
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jcinco
Jul 1, 2004, 11:00 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Everything is wet...word is it would take 3 straight days of sun to dry out lumpy!! Did J-Crack yesterday before the rain hit. The headwall was a little wet as was the fourth pitch. Been snaked the last two-weeks on going to the High Peaks because of the rain. Lumpy was fairly dry. Hit an east-facing cliff first ( the Nose on Sundance). Things are supposed to dry out next week.
I did J-Crack on Tuesday. We got pounded by hail right after finishing the headwall pitch. None of the key locks on the headwall were wet but there was moistness in the pod at the base of the headwall. Besides that everything was dry on the Book except for the Howling at the Wind alcove.
This morning I skied the north face of Torrey's Peak. There was significant fresh accumulation above the 13000 ft level. The Mt. Evans massif is covered in fresh snow to below 13000 ft. I know its not RMNP, but these storms certainly would have brought more moisture to the Park than the mountains to the south near the divide. Saying that, it doesn't take very many 90 degree days to change things quickly.
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jcinco
Jul 1, 2004, 11:01 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: Everything is wet...word is it would take 3 straight days of sun to dry out lumpy!! Did J-Crack yesterday before the rain hit. The headwall was a little wet as was the fourth pitch. Been snaked the last two-weeks on going to the High Peaks because of the rain. Lumpy was fairly dry. Hit an east-facing cliff first ( the Nose on Sundance). Things are supposed to dry out next week.
I did J-Crack on Tuesday. We got pounded by hail right after finishing the headwall pitch. None of the key locks on the headwall were wet but there was moistness in the pod at the base of the headwall. Besides that everything was dry on the Book except for the Howling at the Wind alcove.
This morning I skied the north face of Torrey's Peak. There was significant fresh accumulation above the 13000 ft level. The Mt. Evans massif is covered in fresh snow to below 13000 ft. I know its not RMNP, but these storms certainly would have brought more moisture to the Park than the mountains to the south near the divide. Saying that, it doesn't take very many 90 degree days to change things quickly.
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flamer
Jul 2, 2004, 12:45 AM
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In reply to: Josh, been jonesin to get up Ypsilon, glad yo uhad a good time.
Dude! You should have seen the cornice's in the Y- I stayed WAY back.
josh
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brianri
Jul 2, 2004, 1:31 AM
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I highly recommend Kieners route. It is a great mountaineering route including both snow in Lambs Slide and and rock which goes at only around 5.3. The Cables Route is the commonly used descent route and not that great.
Brian
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coomer
Jul 2, 2004, 1:43 AM
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In reply to: Coom dog, DC= Disorderly Conduct. Saw it from Space, they are close at the top, no?
Okay, thought you might have meant that- but didn't realize you had been in the valley... Ah... Space- I'm jealous. Been wanting to get on that route for years. Did you do it with Mark? How was it?
Did you check out that splitter crack on DC through the orange head-wall right below the Dawn Wall??? One of the most spectacular pitches on the wall- unfortunately- the other Eric got to lead that one- there's a cam stuff move at the top with the tequila straw- sporty- 10 feet horizontal on a tiny little cam (won't say what size- that's part of the fun).
In reply to: Eric- fully in hardcore dirtbag mode. Van is busted...hope the interview went well. Always found plasma physics to be a bit pedestrian, but I bet you can find a niche. LMFAO! Holla at your boy, Brent
You're such a fucking dirtbag... My truck is running, I have a license. Let's go fucking climb some shit. The job is database stuff- left the plasma physics stuff behind years ago...
Cheers
e
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