|
andy_reagan
Jul 2, 2004, 3:50 PM
Post #1 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2004
Posts: 1075
|
I am still in the planning stage(I want to get it right!) of my wall. I really like the idea of a STEEP (45 degrees) wall for the great benefits to power training and also due to my rather low ceiling (8 feet).
But, I am worried that training a couple days a week on this wall I will see my finger strength drop off come weekend. Will adding a vertical finish board with a few small crimps do the trick you think?
If you own a small steep woodie did you notice your finger strength drop off any (obviously your power probably increased...)?
Thanks for your comments, I appreciate any input you can give me.
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Jul 2, 2004, 4:38 PM
Post #2 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
You should think about getting the synrock woodie series.
http://www.synrockholds.com/minibucket.html
We designed these for exactly that reason. Working the fingers safely on steep woodies.
And they feel so much better than plastic!
jim
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Jul 2, 2004, 5:33 PM
Post #3 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
Hmm, that doesn't sound like the answer he was looking for.
Actually it sounds like you're hawking your crap again..
Oh, and back to the posters question:
Although I don't have a wall now. Walls that I've climbed on/ helped build were best(IMHO) with a small, like 2 feet, vertical finish section.
There you can add a hangboard, crimpers and even some campus rails
|
|
|
|
|
omenbringer
Jul 2, 2004, 5:49 PM
Post #4 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 19, 2003
Posts: 248
|
I haven't noticed any real loss of finger strength hell quite the opposite, when I was training on it avidly the benefits where emense. If you are worried about burning out then make an adjustable angle one. The metolius website used to have plans for one but I cant remeber the link. It is really not as hard as it may sound and the advantage is you can relatively easily change the angle from 60 degrees plus overhanging, to vertical.
P.S. it sould fit fine in an apartment, mine does.
|
|
|
|
|
rwaltermyer
Jul 2, 2004, 5:54 PM
Post #5 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 10, 2001
Posts: 1059
|
I think a good training schedule would eliminate such worries. Check out trainingforclimbing.com for detailed workouts that will address exactly that.
|
|
|
|
|
clarki
Jul 2, 2004, 5:56 PM
Post #6 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 192
|
Go for the steep wall, definately. Just pay close attention to what holds you put on it. Look for big round slopey ones, and avoid anything smallish or sharp like the plauge!
With long throws to roundish, slopey holds you will still get all the core strength benifits of a steep wall, and you will get all the contact strength you can handle trying to stay on the round holds. What you will miss is the potential to tweak a finger on your wall. (could there be a worse injury???) Save your finger training for the hangboard where there is limited dynamic movement.
My .02 cents
|
|
|
|
|
therealdeal
Jul 2, 2004, 6:41 PM
Post #7 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 29, 2002
Posts: 250
|
Yeah...I would tend to agree with most of these posters, especially if you are putting this wall up for training more than fun...the steeper the better.
I think you are more likely to injure yourself on less steep walls as well, b/c then you have to make the holds so small to make it hard.
My finger strength (and core strength) went WAY up when I put up my woody, and it is steep as hell.
Make your own wooden holds..its easy as long as you don't try to be a master craftsman, and will allow you to train for much longer, and w/o needing days for your skin to recover before you can actually go outside.
One note though...watch out for shoulder injury (i speak fron experience) start doing resistence exercises along with your training on your woody....you need to keep a balance in that joint, otherwise eventually you'll end up in a world of hurt.
n
|
|
|
|
|
ikefromla
Jul 2, 2004, 6:47 PM
Post #8 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 23, 2002
Posts: 1216
|
IMHO, between 30 and 45 degrees is ideal for intense training. One of my friends has a beastly steep little woodie in his back yard.. the thing isn't that big, but the angle sure can make up for it.
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Jul 3, 2004, 6:22 PM
Post #9 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
In reply to: Hmm, that doesn't sound like the answer he was looking for. Actually it sounds like you're hawking your crap again..
Crap smells son.
Plastic holds smell.
Synrock doesn't smell.
You should respect your elders - chances are I was climbing rock when you still were still wearing a smelly crappy diaper.
I gave the best possible answer to this gentleman. Maybe not the answer "you" thought he was looking for but the best solution.
Synrock is MORE comfortable than wood - and I designed my woodie set to safely work the fingers on steep woodies. And the set is the best value for the money according to climbing magazine.
So go check you diaper before you go mouthing off to your elders.
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Jul 3, 2004, 6:40 PM
Post #10 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
In reply to: In reply to: Hmm, that doesn't sound like the answer he was looking for. Actually it sounds like you're hawking your crap again.. Crap smells son. Plastic holds smell. Synrock doesn't smell. You should respect your elders - chances are I was climbing rock when you still were still wearing a smelly crappy diaper. I gave the best possible answer to this gentleman. Maybe not the answer "you" thought he was looking for but the best solution. Synrock is MORE comfortable than wood - and I designed my woodie set to safely work the fingers on steep woodies. And the set is the best value for the money according to climbing magazine. So go check you diaper before you go mouthing off to your elders.
Well I'm convinced. I always look for righteous assholes to buy what I need from. Humility goes a long way, "son."
|
|
|
|
|
synrock
Jul 3, 2004, 7:27 PM
Post #11 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 17, 2004
Posts: 282
|
Humility goes a long way if you are trying to get something. It is human nature to want that which others try not to give away. And vice versa.
I'm not trying to get anything. Just giving the correct answer to an inquiry.
The last thing I need right now is to sell more holds cause I'm too busy developing the best gritstone bouldering area in the US of A.
Soooo.
No holds for you!
Hold Nazi.
|
|
|
|
|
andy_reagan
Jul 3, 2004, 8:32 PM
Post #12 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 12, 2004
Posts: 1075
|
anywyas...
thank you to those with helpful input.
Does anyone have any comments with the vertical finish board? Good place to add some crimpy holds that you might not be able to use on the 45 degree section?
|
|
|
|
|
c-money
Deleted
Jul 3, 2004, 9:02 PM
Post #13 of 13
(6400 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
Definately. Throw up some crimps to get that range of hold styles you are after.
Someone might have mentioned it, but I think that a vertical finishing section would be a great place to put up a hangboard. A hangboard would give you a great variety of holds to incorporate into problems (finishing jugs, etc.), as well as little crimps to work the finger-strength.
|
|
|
|
|
|
