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euleto


Jul 2, 2004, 10:22 PM
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Registered: Jun 20, 2004
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Howdy.

I'm no gumby, but I am definately in the "newer climber" state (been climbing for 7, went hardcore about 3 months ago). I have a hangboard at home, and use it religiously, but I leave for college (University of Dayton) in about 2 months. Lucky for me, theres a great gym by me now, and theres an even better rock gym like a mile away from the university (the urban crag). So climbing wont be a problem, but the hangboard workout might. Does anyone have any suggestions on either

A) How to hang a board in a college dorm room without angering the college staff lol
or
B) some other good ways to keep finger strength up

Thanks.


backtrack12


Jul 3, 2004, 8:34 AM
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euleto,

kudos on getting into climbing so enthusiastically.

careful about the hangboard though... while it's great in promoting strength, over use of just campusing or hanging can easily lead to bed finger tendonitis... and that's no good. for your health or your climbing.

when i lived in a college dormitory, i just always ninja-climbed (snuck on 'em at night) the local brick cuildings around campus for climbing practice...

but if that's not your thing, you can always maintain hand, finger, and forearm strength by hooking a weight onto a piece of pvc pipe by a dangling rope. Then, practice pulling the weight up by rolling it on the rope-- adjust your grip to exercise the forearms, wrists, and hands-- and even grasp it at your fingertips to practice some finger strength.

You can also do the same with those little moving ball thingd you can buy at a store like REI.

But PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE do try to be aware of overuse... when you first get into climbing, sometimes you're so stoked on getting strong that it's really easy to overuse-- and yes, "overtrain." Every climber experiences injuries at sometime or another, but tendonitis sucks, and it can take a while to recuperate from it.

Mainly, it just messes with your climbing-- which defeats your purpose in training in the first place.

Good luck and stay safe...

Also, if your dorm room is big enough, you can build a free-standing structure. Or, if you have a little ladder to a loft or a bed or something, I did see someone drill some holds onto a ladder and sit-start it every morning.

Be creative and have fun!

Sasha


backtrack12


Jul 3, 2004, 8:39 AM
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sorry.... bad spelling.... "cuildings" = "buildings"


overlord


Jul 3, 2004, 12:00 PM
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a) there are two ways. one is to ask the staff if theyll allow you to drill two holes into a wall or something, but youre screwed if they say no. the other way is to just drill and hope they dont find out.

another good idea would be to build a free stanging frame for it.


other ways to keep strenght are, like a pvc pipe over a pullupbar (the wider the pipe the harder it is), especially if you get the bar that you can fix into a doorframe. or you can lift plates with your fingers (works great for inch holds)... there are countless possibilities, you just have to use your imagination.


euleto


Jul 3, 2004, 12:05 PM
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thanks guys.

I like the ninja climbing idea lol.

My dorm room is pretty big, but unfortunately not big enough for a ladder and stuff, but the PVC pipe idea sounds great. Thanks

And I really need to watch the tendonitis, im a music major!


dredsovrn


Jul 23, 2004, 4:28 PM
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Door frame hangs and pullups.


thejew


Jul 23, 2004, 4:32 PM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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drill the holes for you hangboard, and at the end of the term, all you have to do is plaster over them....


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