|
iguana_roca
Jul 3, 2004, 4:45 AM
Post #1 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 2
|
I am planning a trip with 2 or 3 beginners in the first two weeks of august. Also, we only have quickdraws, no pro. Does anyone think we will have a problem? I have been climbing for 1.5 years and am confident i can lead a 5.9 and probably a 5.10 but im not sure the other climbers will be able to climb that. We will be driving and are interested in climbing anywhere around or north of mexico city,( ie, el portero chico, o tepoztlan?). I dont have any guide books yet but does anyone have any advice for climbing locations for us? Also, i am a little concerned about the heat in august. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
ciao - iguana roca
|
|
|
|
|
chuffinator
Jul 3, 2004, 5:59 AM
Post #2 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 40
|
Here some beta for El Potrero:
1. Buy a guide book from Tami or Magic Ed.
2. quick draws are all you will need, 12-15.
3. 70 meter rope is preferred, but a 60 will get you by.
4. Helmet, lots of rock fall.
|
|
|
|
|
jcr
Jul 3, 2004, 8:05 AM
Post #3 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 17, 2004
Posts: 317
|
In potrero I know for sure that heat WILL be a bit(h, try to climb where there is shadow or climb when the sun is going down, unless you are acustomed to climbing in the heat. Have lots of water. Other than that what chuffinator said is correct.
JC
|
|
|
|
|
hazael
Jul 3, 2004, 3:37 PM
Post #4 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 130
|
El Potrero Chico is in Monterrey, that's about 2.30 to 3 hours from texas (That would be McAllen or Laredo) is a great climbing area, there is also another area called La Huasteca, you can check out both they are really different! (specially if you are going to be around for two weeks!). If you want, and decide to climb near Monterrey, I can show you the crags.
The water advice is really important!
PM me if you want!
Have a nice climb!
|
|
|
|
|
iguana_roca
Jul 9, 2004, 2:38 AM
Post #5 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 3, 2004
Posts: 2
|
Thanks for the advice. Im sure we will climb in Monterrey for a couple days before heading down to Mexico City. How do i contact Tami or Magic Ed? Do they live in Monterrey?
Does anyone know about climbing closer to Mexico City where it might be a little cooler if we decide we can't stand the heat?
Thanks for the offer hazael. I might take you up on that once I iron out our plans.
|
|
|
|
|
risos
Jul 9, 2004, 3:30 AM
Post #6 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 7, 2003
Posts: 79
|
yes... there is a lot of climbing in and around Mexico city, you can find tons of preety accurate beta in www.xpmexico.com and if yow would like more information feel free to email me .
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Jan 3, 2005, 9:43 PM
Post #7 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
Donīt be too concerned about the heat at Potrero Chico in the Summer--the way the walls are oriented there is always shade. 99% of the routes are well bolted and there are lots of good routes for beginners.
|
|
|
|
|
crackmd
Jan 3, 2005, 10:36 PM
Post #8 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 24, 2002
Posts: 444
|
I will be coming to Potrero Chico in early Feb with my girlfriend. Do you guys have specific recs for walls that also contain some easier/moderate climbs? Is there any way to obtain the guidebook without actually being there? I'm counting the days to pulling down south of the border.
|
|
|
|
|
hazael
Jan 3, 2005, 11:34 PM
Post #9 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 130
|
I got my guide book from a friend, and I think he got it from a girl that sells them around the crag. But the info on this site is really good, you can use it as a guide book. There you can see that there are a lot of routes, easy, moderate, hard, you name it! plenty for everyone!
|
|
|
|
|
potreroed
Jan 4, 2005, 5:23 AM
Post #10 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 30, 2001
Posts: 1454
|
The guidebook is only available locally when you arrive but don't worry--everything here is easy to find and the approaches are short: 30 seconds to about 20 minutes max. You'll be all dialed in in just a few hours!!!
|
|
|
|
|
cliffmama
Jan 4, 2005, 9:04 PM
Post #11 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 16, 2003
Posts: 65
|
hazael,
How does La Huasteca differ from Potrero Chico? I've climbed at Potrero for the past 3 winters, will be back there in early February. Is La Huasteca as approachable and as developed? How does one get there from Potrero without a car? Does a guidebook for it exist? I've seen pictures of the place, it looks beautiful, but never really saw much beta on it.
crackmd,
What dates in early Feb are you going? We'll be there 2/4-2/14 at Quinta La Pagoda and know lots of moderate routes, you could hang with us until you get a guidebook and find your way around.
As far as guidebooks go, definitely locate Magic Ed or Tami while at Potrero and pay the $10 for a guidebook instead of using a photocopy. Ask around, you'll likely find them at Homeros. The proceeds helps pay for the thousands of bolts they've put up in the canyon. There are some 5.7 and 5.8s, but most of the routes are 5.9 and up, however I felt the grades were soft (at least compared to the Gunks).
For lots of pictures and some beta about climbing at Potrero, check out my website:
http://cliffmama.com/...o/General_Diary.html
I love Potrero Chico!
cliffmama
|
|
|
|
|
hazael
Jan 5, 2005, 6:17 AM
Post #12 of 12
(4944 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 1, 2004
Posts: 130
|
Well, la huasteca is very different from potrero, the limestone in la huasteca is more steep and hold-less, the routes over there are more like slabs and vertical crimpy routes.
a big difference may be the type of foot-work, for example, in Potrero, you can smear almost anywhere you want, in la huasteca, smearing is almost imposible, is wiser to find little imperfections in the rock to edge then smear.
The color of the rock is also a important difference, La Huasteca is brighter than Potrero, it has white-colored limestone. If you camp on a full-moon night in La huasteca, you can see how the moon reflects on the walls and all the place shines in a blue-kind of light.
another difference: The amount of people climbing. Past the park of la huasteca, the place is really quiet, almost no one to bother you. But in the park, lets say La Navaja (a popular newbie wall), is crowded in the weekends.
There are no overhangs, no tufas... really different type of rock.
La huasteca may be like an hour and a half from Potrero iby car... so its not so easy to get there. I can give you instructions if you want.
Or we can arrange something, like, I can pick you up, and bring you to huasteca a couple of days while you are here.
there is a guide, its called Topos, its really good, rumor says theres gonna be a better guide soon, but who knows? you can find it in "Explora" a climbing store in Monterrey.
About the approaches and develop, let's put it this way... most of the approaches are like: I can give you belay from my car-seat, you can leave the car beside the rock. There are less routes than in Potrero, but there are plenty for a decade. so, you can't get bored in there.
any doubts? fell free to ask.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
