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sujones65
Jun 9, 2004, 5:49 PM
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Registered: May 5, 2004
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My husband and I are coming up for a college reunion (his) and I thought I might do some climbing while he's recovering from his hangover. Is there any? this would be the last WE of June if anyone is around....
thanks!
sue
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une
Jun 9, 2004, 5:59 PM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2004
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Devil's Lake is the place to be as far as climbing around Madison. There are a few sport climbs at Governor Dodge state park but the sandstone is less than reliable. The Lake gets really crouded in certain areas on the weekend but most everyone is nice and willing to share a top rope. As far as leading, it is trad only. If you search the forums you can find a regional discusson about the lake and find partners. There is a rather large contingent of climbers from this site at the lake on most weekends.
Hope this helps
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holdplease2
Jun 9, 2004, 6:04 PM
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Devils lake! What fun!
If you haven't been there before you can spend a heck of a long time looking for where you are going...so if you think you are going off the beaten path, just go find something closer to the road.
Many places you can set up TR without gear...but you will need long peices of nylon, up to 20 feet, to reach trees (protect the trees with something.
Most areas are TR setup spots, as there is no bolting allowed. The "old sandstone area" is nice for a bit of leading but tends to be crowded. The guidebook is called "the climbers guide to devlis lake".
Folks are generally friendly and you can probably catch rides on other peoples lines...it is easy enough to walk around to the top of the climbs to check these out...which I recommend you do anytime.
:)
Have fun!
-Kate.
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brianthew
Jun 9, 2004, 6:48 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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Above is all good info, but the Old Sandstone area isn't crowded. Most people don't even really know it exists. Every time I've been there, I've had the place to myself. I like the rock a bit better there (yay friction) but there aren't as many routes.
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sync
Jun 9, 2004, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
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And if you really want to avoid the crowds, go East or West of the Quarry Rocks. Not nearly as tall or easily accessible as the East Bluff, but there are some good routes out there. Once you find them.
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holdplease2
Jun 9, 2004, 8:02 PM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
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Good to hear Old Sandstone isn't too crowded. There are a few 8s, 9s and 10s, some are tall, and its the best climbing I've done in DL...make sure you pull the car off in the right spot if you go there. As you are walking up the faint trail from the road, there is a wooded box on your right on a stand. Usually a family of mice live in it. This is how you know you are on the right track.
If you go there, try to get someone to give you the good beta on how to find it so you don't screw yourselves. Nice crack and face climbing.
This is where I would go if I had one day to spend because it is my favorite place...but if you move super fast you might run out of routes on a long day...
:)
-Kate.
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brianthew
Jun 9, 2004, 8:08 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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The best way to get to Old Sandstone is to drive down the CCC road until you get to a place where there's a little road turnoff and a "speed limit 35" sign on the other side of the road. You'll see a little trail next to it. It's a ways past the CCC Lot if you're driving from the west. And yeah, there's that wooden box on the trail. I think it was a climber registration booth, when they were trying to get an idea how many folks visit the Old Sandstone area.
There are some good 11s too, some are pretty interesting. The top-rope setups are as easy as they are on the East Bluff. Plenty o' sturdy trees.
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wiscoclimbiner
Jul 7, 2004, 1:58 AM
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Registered: Feb 16, 2004
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what is the best way to get to east or weat of quarry rocks ive hiked around abit looking for it and i dont know if i went right past the cliffs or if im way off... any beta on this place would be awesome
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sync
Jul 7, 2004, 3:04 AM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
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In reply to: what is the best way to get to east or weat of quarry rocks ive hiked around abit looking for it and i dont know if i went right past the cliffs or if im way off... any beta on this place would be awesome
Those areas are a bit of a pain to get to. If you park in the CCC lot, start walking east down the road. You'll get to a gated road that goes into the quarry area. If you stick to the west of this road and head straight up you'll get to some of the climbs. You'll have to wend your way through lots of brush and loose rock.
Another way is to go up the CCC trail to the top of the East Bluff. Behind the East Bluff trail is the Ice Age trail that continues on to the East. If you follow that for a while you will come to some climbers trails that head to the topmost short bluffs, like September Wall.
If you have a GPS unit, I can give you the coords of some of the areas and that might help you get there.
Cheers,
sync
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wiscoclimbiner
Jul 7, 2004, 3:45 AM
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Registered: Feb 16, 2004
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thanks for the info sync. next time im up i will have to do some more searching, hopefully this will help
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mowz
Jul 7, 2004, 3:48 AM
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Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 1495
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Seriously? Are you being serious?
Good God! Go to Devil's Lake! Man, if you can climb grade X there, you can climb grade x+.5 or even x+1 at most places. I actually am getting to like the quartzite. I know it's tough to smear on, but even a little nub or an edge is so solid. It's so good for a mid-west destination. Watch out for the crowds and there might be some black flies.
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