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mrtristan
Jul 8, 2004, 2:03 AM
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Registered: Jun 21, 2002
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Looks pretty bad, but I don't really know what I'm seeing here. looks like there are two sets of ropes getting ready for rappel? Dunno how they're going to pull the non-pink set... The knot seems to be in between the two bolts? Can't really tell.
Weird. Never seen anything like that.
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chuffinator
Jul 8, 2004, 3:04 AM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 40
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Beautiful dissaster!
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philbox
Moderator
Jul 8, 2004, 3:17 AM
Post #4 of 16
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
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I wouldn`t be too quick to judge this one. It actually looks something like what you would see on a Via Ferrata. I shall refrain from further comment until if and when I see the context that this thing has been used in.
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boltdude
Jul 8, 2004, 6:10 AM
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Registered: Sep 30, 2002
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Nightmare? Try "dream" instead. Three non-rusted modern glue-in bolts, yeah they may be connected weird but you can fix that with a couple slings and leaver biners, and besides you could probably pick your truck up with that cable.
Nightmare is more like old 1/4" rusty bolts where one hanger is broken off and the other spins...or a rusty pin with a half-broken eye and an old rusted nut...or a tiny little dead tree with slings around it...or a slung chockstone in a chimney that looks like it probably won't fall out when you rap off it, but it still moves a bit...
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needtolearnhowtoclimb
Jul 8, 2004, 11:30 PM
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Registered: Apr 24, 2002
Posts: 216
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what the hell is that? i cant even tell what it is.
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thedus
Jul 8, 2004, 11:55 PM
Post #9 of 16
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Registered: Jun 10, 2004
Posts: 86
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FYI, the text is Japanese (Shift_JIS encoding), and the caption on the photo is something like "End point of Hirosawa temple general route." As for the rest of the page, try http://babel.altavista.com to translate the text. Good luck translating the translation.
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philbox
Moderator
Jul 9, 2004, 12:04 AM
Post #10 of 16
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Registered: Jun 27, 2002
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I still say that it is a Via Ferrata.
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qwert
Jul 9, 2004, 2:56 PM
Post #11 of 16
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Registered: Mar 24, 2004
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looks ok for me.
I dont think its a "real" via ferrata, since the grey rope going thru the picture looks like a climbing rope, and not a steel cable. Maybe some sort of handrail for the people who want to walk and dont want to rap down.
Not the perfect anchor, but if the cable and the swages look good ... :D
(of course i would have just used a sling, but ...)
qwert
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overlord
Jul 9, 2004, 3:17 PM
Post #12 of 16
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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the only thing wrong that i can see is the cable loop forming an american triangle on the bolts. better to use 3 seperate loops. i dont know what the grey rope is for, but i does kinda look like a via feratta setup.
the ropes look to be joined with a double fishermans though it looks kinda strange (maybe the two parts of the knot slid a bit, but thats no biggie, theyll come together again when weighted).
and the biner doesnt look like a locker to me.
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mother_sheep
Jul 9, 2004, 3:23 PM
Post #13 of 16
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Registered: Jul 18, 2002
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This photo is confusing. My first observation is that it doesn't appear to be equalized in any way. 2d, is the cordalette going through a bolt???? Whatever it's running through is not very rounded so my guess is that the chances of the cord being severed is good. I'd rap off of this anchor but that's about it until it got cleaned up. But this is coming from someone who rapped off of a shifting manky piton once. dumb dumb
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tgreene
Jul 9, 2004, 3:36 PM
Post #14 of 16
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Registered: Oct 22, 2003
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I had always been under the impression that it was a no-no to combine rope or webbing with a cable... The fact that there are direct connections, could result in a slow sawing effect of the rope, due to the abrassiveness of the cable.
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granitegod
Jul 9, 2004, 3:44 PM
Post #15 of 16
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
Posts: 340
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I'd rap off this without much hesistation. Sure, it aint equalized, but if the bolts are good, there are two cables....good enough.
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saskclimber
Jul 9, 2004, 5:18 PM
Post #16 of 16
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Registered: May 23, 2004
Posts: 548
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What I think I see..
- 1 biner (and it looks like the gate if facing the rock)
- knot looks way too messay, and really close to the biner
- depending on if that green rope is being used for something, only attatched be a single overhand
- wire bolts could fray the green rope if loaded
- if cable, or wire bolts pop, rope could go (not alot of redundancy)
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