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markanite
Jul 12, 2004, 7:12 PM
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I want to extend my experience to alpine. Everybody I talk to says go climb with experienced alpine climbers as opposed to taking a class (because you will have more fun and gain allot more experience and save allot of money). BUT I live in San Antonio, TX where mountaineers seem not to exist.
I am an experienced climber with extended multipitch experience, the endurance level to run a marathon, and strong. Extended outdoor experience including camping in the wilderness for two months and therefore plenty of outdoor survival experience.
Suggestions on getting into alpine? This is a real long shot but is there a possibility a group that is climbing an easy -> intermediate mountain who wouldn't mind a 21 year old guy joining them (who is novice in Alpine but extremely eager to learn)?
I am very willing to travel.
Thanks,
Mark
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johnhemlock
Jul 12, 2004, 7:25 PM
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If you get up to Colorado, let me know. We can take a spin up some of the alpine stuff in RMNP.
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atg200
Jul 12, 2004, 7:31 PM
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you sound like you will be fine on an alpine rock route. go to RMNP in colorado and do something like the petit grepon or culp-bossier on hallets. work your way up from there.
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nthusiastj
Jul 12, 2004, 7:47 PM
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I think that the only a few noticeable differences between "extended multi" and alpine.
The elevation of course causes you to get a bit winded easier.
The freeze/thaw cycle creates a lot more loose rock to watch out for on routes.
Route finding is very often much harder.
The approaches are usually longer.
If you are pretty experienced it should not be a big problem. Just start off on a few alpine routes a couple of grades lower than normal. Don't forget your alpine start!
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chuffinator
Jul 12, 2004, 8:21 PM
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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Yo Mark!
I live in Austin and am getting into alpine climbing. Check out Orizaba in Mexico. It's a great beginner climb.
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jasona
Jul 12, 2004, 8:34 PM
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There is or was a group in the Dallas area "Texas Mountaineers" that seemed pretty cool. Might be worth looking up.
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farrgo
Jul 27, 2004, 10:18 PM
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If you want to break into the alpine realm, spend a summer in the Cascades. This is definately "the" range to cut your teeth on in the lower 48. It has all the ingredients for the bigger ranges, crappy weather, hellish approahces, bushwaking and lots and lots of relief. The climbs may not top out at a high altitude. Most are within 8-10K but you start from like 1-2K so you still get a bunch of climbing in.
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angelaa
Aug 10, 2004, 3:49 PM
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If you learn well from books and doing. . . . just do it!
Sounds like your rock experience is adequate to make the next move.
Find a partner with the same level of experience and drive and start off small. I think your ability to move from rock to alpine stems from your drive, determination and your maturity.
The big difference between Rock and Alpine may just be knowing when you're licked and when to turn around.
.....sometimes the mountain wins.
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talons05
Aug 11, 2004, 3:49 AM
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I, too recently (about 2 yrs ago) made the transition from multi-pitch rock climber to Alpine and Ice. I live at about 1,200 ft. and have never had a problem with the higher altitudes. If you are in good shape there is a good chance that you will acclimate quickly and without incident. Are you looking for alpine ROCK routes? If so, not much different... If what you are interested are mountaineering snow and ice routes, then it is a little bit different. Again, though, for someone in keen physical condition it can be fun even starting out. A group and I are going to do some alpine stuff in September, and again in December if you are interested. I have learned a lot over the years by careful study of the books that are available (Mountaineering: Freedom of the Hills, etc.) and by climbing with more experienced climbers. Guideservices are a fine way to learn, but can be expensive. Use your own judgement... Geez, I didn't mean for this to be so long.
A.W.
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oregonalpine
Aug 12, 2004, 11:07 PM
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Depending on what kind of climbing you want to do, I may be able to help you out. I'll be in the Cascades this summer climbing so any climbs you want to try, just PM me about them. About Orizaba, IMHO it is a good beginner climb, but I dont know about starting off on an 18000' mountain.
However, next time someone is going down there I am very eager to get on that mountain, so let me know if you need a partner!
:D
Jeff
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punk
Aug 13, 2004, 6:10 AM
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In reply to: I, too recently (about 2 yrs ago) made the transition from multi-pitch rock climber to Alpine and Ice. I live at about 1,200 ft. and have never had a problem with the higher altitudes.
:lol: :lol: :lol:
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rockjunkie
Aug 16, 2004, 10:19 PM
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Do yourself (and your potential partners) a huge favor and learn all you can in the meantime about snow stability. I find that routefinding in the winter depends very much on this (as it does in the rest of the year as well) i reckon this is the biggest killer for experienced mountaineers in the alpine.
cheers!
tommy
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petsfed
Aug 17, 2004, 12:45 AM
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Start small. That is, go for shorter pure rock routes, then work into longer and longer pure rock routes (all preferably in an alpine setting like Rocky Mountain National Park, the Wind River Range, the Sierra, etc) going lighter and faster every chance you get.
During the offseason, learn to ice climb.
I remember hearing about Steve House once that the reason for his success is not the ability to climb hard, but rather the ability to move VERY quickly on all grades. That is to say, there shouldn't be much difference between the amount of time it takes you to climb a 200 ft 5.3, a 200 ft 5.9, or a 200 ft WI4 pitch. Get efficient.
Definitely take some avalanche and weather classes. Do a lot of hiking in the mountains. Learn to recognize what is (and isn't) a good strategic route finding choice.
Learn to get by with less. For instance, I've done a 1000 foot 5.9 with 8 cams and a set of nuts. And I think I brought too much. Every single piece of that rack was used at least once on that route.
Learn to climb hard in boots. Learn to climb hard in plastic boots. Learn to climb hard in crampons.
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dingus
Aug 17, 2004, 1:57 AM
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I'm from Tennessee and always hankered for the alpine, from when I was a wee tot.
But it just didn't happen for me till I moved to the west, in my case California. Now I don't know how close or far you are from real mountains what with Texas being the big assed state that is is, but being able to pretty much go, huh, I think I'll go alpin' tomorrow, was key for me. In 4 hours I can be at any one of several dozen trailheads leading into the heart of a mountain wilderness.
But whether or not you do that, if you just place yourself in the mountains (do all those other things too dude), weekend after weekend, and then go after summits... it will just happen.
You end up with dozens, hundreds of potential objectives. Maps, guide books, and mental lists of places to go depending upon weather, time and money. The trick is to adjust your objective to your current situation - fitness, skill, mental, experience, partnered? Gear up with a fall back plan so when your partner doesn't show at the trailhead or it's raining you can do something else instead of driving 6 hours back home. Lots of good climbs to be done in the rain man. Don't look down your nose at some god fearing, working man's blues / peak slogging. If you just go out and climb the mountains you can, and work toward the ones you can't, it'll happen.
That means heading up some trail when you could be at the climbing gym or clipping bolts. It means coercing your friends into going with you. It means going alone if you must (well, thats a personal choice). Just pick a mountain to go climb, it doesn't have to be snow clad. It's all good. Go out your door and spy a distant peak and go climb it!
I didn't touch a pair of skis till I was 30. Or ice tools. In hindsight, as the sport is practiced here in the US, I consider solid skiing skills to be mandatory for the all around mountain climber. So all those powder dump days you spend on lift served tree runs count toward your ultimate goal too. Being an ice climber is very helpful too, and all those skills take time to build. You have to be in the mountains to do them.
Ultimately is it mind boggling expensive, with most of your gear considered a 'consumable,' as it will have to be replaced ad naseum. But if you get started on the cheap with some tennis shoes, a water bottle and a mountain to scramble, it can also be mind boggling pure.
Cheers
DMT
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oregonalpine
Aug 21, 2004, 5:51 AM
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Registered: Jul 7, 2004
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Aha, a fellow Tennessean... you're living my dream... I'll be out west in a couple years... maybe.... until then i'll be climbing any time i save up enough money, which is d*mn hard when i spend it all on climbing gear, ironic eh?
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chugach001
Aug 22, 2004, 10:02 PM
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Hey Mark,
Good luck to you. When I got the urge for alpine I moved to AK and started slow. I'm in New Orleans now so feel your pain.
How do you want to start? Mountaineering or alpine rock? For mountaineering I'd say head out to cascades and start knocking off routes, starting with walkups like Hood, Shasta, St. Helens and Adams. For alpine rock, I agree with the others who say RNMP, which is closest to you. Ice - Ouray.
IMHO, each skill is equal in depth and study to multi-pitch trad. There is just SO much to know about the game; snow stability, altitude, ice, rock, aid, glacier travel, self rescue, weather, etc.
keep in touch if you're interested in sharing a rope.
Cheers,
Jeff
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timstich
Aug 26, 2004, 2:40 PM
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In reply to: Ultimately is it mind boggling expensive, with most of your gear considered a 'consumable,' as it will have to be replaced ad naseum...
That's what I'm discovering. Buying several new slings after each trip seems to be the norm. The rope has held up so far.
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