|
foilball
Jun 29, 2004, 4:14 AM
Post #1 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 29, 2004
Posts: 29
|
I've been climbing for about a year, never very seriously. I used to be a swimmer and still swim and lift weights. I've noticed sometimes after I climb one or both of my elbows will have a deep, dull constant ache. It's not associated with movement really, and not a sharp pain. Could I be stressing some tendons too much? I just bought a hangboard to train over the summer while I'm home from college, should i be careful about doing to much on it?
thank you!!
|
|
|
|
|
dawnyb
Jun 29, 2004, 4:47 AM
Post #2 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 3, 2004
Posts: 46
|
Where is the pain? If you stand with your arms to your sides and you supinate your hands (Jesus stance), is it like above the inner part of your elbows (which are now pointing at your waist)? When I first started climbing, I had pain there which was very similar to what your describing. I discussed it with a sports MD and he said that it's possible that climbing was stressing my elbow tendons because the surrounding muscles weren't strong enough to handle what I was putting them through. He advised that I lift weights more to strengthen the bicep and tricep muscles, and it seemed to work for me. Given that, I'm not sure that the hangboard will help you - it may make it worse. I don't know though, it sounds like you have fairly strong arms as it is. But think about adding (or increasing) complementary weight lifting to your climbing. Good luck!
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jun 29, 2004, 4:56 AM
Post #3 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
Common climbing malady:
You learn sooner or later that its easier to back off for a bit, give it some rest - and then ease back into it to see how you feel, vs just plowing ahead until it REALLY REALLY hurts. Pain is your bodies way of saying take it easy and or pay attention. Tendons in your elbows and fingers seem to need a bit before they are up to speed with the muscles.
So, Ibuprofen and rest (bike riding and running are common, abeit poor, climbing substitues in times like these).
Regards:
Bill
|
|
|
|
|
tigerbythetail
Jun 29, 2004, 5:07 AM
Post #4 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 514
|
In reply to: should i be careful about doing to much
Classic...switch hands and get back to us.
|
|
|
|
|
saskclimber
Jun 29, 2004, 5:56 AM
Post #5 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 23, 2004
Posts: 548
|
I'm kinda leary about giving any advice related to possible injuries on here. It can be anything from bursitis, strained tendons, compressed cartilage/nerves, or an inflamed joint capsule. I suggest you go see a physio or sports MD where you live and they could tell you better than anybody on here probably. But yeah, back off on the climbing a bit, take some IB, and talk to a doc. Climbing injuries can be really frustrating. I tore my left bicep a year ago trying to catch a fall, and it still flares up on me once in a while. Good luck though.
|
|
|
|
|
roughster
Jun 29, 2004, 6:00 AM
Post #6 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2002
Posts: 4003
|
roughster moved this thread from Beginners to Injuries & Accidents.
|
|
|
|
|
billcoe_
Jun 29, 2004, 2:42 PM
Post #7 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 4694
|
In reply to: Classic...switch hands and get back to us.
Dude!!!!!!! Pllleeeeeeaaaasssseeee!!! :P :oops: :P :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
But Saskclimber has the best answer.
|
|
|
|
|
merock
Jun 29, 2004, 3:34 PM
Post #8 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 27, 2003
Posts: 234
|
One word: Acupunture..... seriously it is a climbers best friend. I started to get some serious aches in my elbow, push-ups would hurt. Two sessions of acupunture and a week and a half with out climbing and I feel solid. It's so great. I thought my climbing career was coming to a hault and I was going to be out for at least 2 months but I ended up doing minium time. it works. do it. seriously. what do you got to lose?
|
|
|
|
|
bbziger
Jun 29, 2004, 5:18 PM
Post #9 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 26, 2003
Posts: 92
|
Your pain sounds similar to what I experience if I’ve had a long, hard session (of climbing, that is). I also experience the pain if I surf or lift weights the day after.
I started using neoprene straps that wrap on the upper part of the forearm, right below the elbow. In addition to the neoprene, the straps have a length of firmer material that you can tighten to increase the compression on the tendons in the elbow area. I’ve noticed a tremendous difference since I’ve been wearing them. While I still feel a very slight elbow ache at times, it never gets to the realm of pain.
BBB
|
|
|
|
|
highminded
Jul 7, 2004, 1:24 AM
Post #10 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 19, 2004
Posts: 93
|
I know this is going to inflame the whole ATC vs. GriGri debate, but I had a similar pain in my right (brake) elbow when I first started climbing.
I determined that it was because I was climbing with other noobs who spent lots of time dangling and thrashing around on the rope above me, while I held them in brake with an ATC.
I switched to a GriGri because one of my gym staff recommended it as a way to get some help with holding down the brake. (And before anybody flames on this: Remember that a GriGri is no substitute for a brake hand. You must still keep your brake hand on the rope at all times. The GriGri just makes holding a thrashing top-roper much easier).
If you're using and ATC and your partner spends a lot of time resting on the rope, try a GriGri.
|
|
|
|
|
caspian
Jul 7, 2004, 2:29 AM
Post #11 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2004
Posts: 34
|
The two most important things:
First, throw away the hang board.
Second, do lots of pushups.
Climb regularly and avoid pushing too hard after taking time off from climbing.
If your elbows hurt, dont climb until they stop hurting.
If they hurt really bad after a session, then take ibuprofen and ice. The majority of damage is due to inflamation.
Moderation is key to just about everything in life
|
|
|
|
|
pumpout2004
Jul 16, 2004, 5:19 PM
Post #12 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2004
Posts: 62
|
I get that deep throbbing pain in my elbows only if I do a specific motion repeatedly. It gets really bad if I do any prusiks climbing, that pulling on the nots sets it off. :cry:
|
|
|
|
|
treesail
Jul 16, 2004, 7:30 PM
Post #13 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 16, 2004
Posts: 204
|
Probably too much typing on the computer.
|
|
|
|
|
ironhawk
Jul 16, 2004, 7:42 PM
Post #14 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 30, 2004
Posts: 98
|
I swear push ups help a ton! Its works the opposing groups and help to even things out.
|
|
|
|
|
roboclimber
Jul 16, 2004, 7:52 PM
Post #15 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2004
Posts: 138
|
Saskclimber has the right idea. Go see a Sports Medicine doctor. If this condition is bilateral, then it could be inflammatory in nature, but go in and chat with someone just to be sure. The other "remedies" offered will mostly be palliative. At a minimum, lay off workouts until you get evaluated.
|
|
|
|
|
cryder
Jul 16, 2004, 8:09 PM
Post #16 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 14, 2003
Posts: 391
|
You mentioned wieght lifting, and I think that it would be a good idea to specify what kind of lifting you do.
I got into weight lifting just before I started climbing, and being greedy for performance I kept doing both. After a year of lifting, I was able to bench about 300 or so, but my climbing was still not coming along... at all. And I had a major problem with elbow ache. So I switched to favor my climbing more by going with more intesity less wieght in the wieght room, and less difficult but more sustained climbing sessions. My climbing improved significantly with the extra strength and endurance. I was most vulnerable to elbow ache when I was had lifted the previous day or the morning of a day of climbing.
Many weight lifters will support the idea of equalizing your musular development to aid in symetrical building that helps with preventing tendon and ligament damage from disportionate strength
hope that helps>
|
|
|
|
|
roadtrippin
Jul 16, 2004, 8:12 PM
Post #17 of 17
(2863 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 8, 2004
Posts: 24
|
Get a strong rubber band and group your fingers and thumb together and then wrap your rubber band around all of them. Then just do reps of spreading your fingers apart. This works the opposing muscle groups and will relieve your tennis elbow.
|
|
|
|
|
|
