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jem
Jul 20, 2004, 4:31 PM
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Do you prefer to climb on rock or plastic? I started on rock (loved it) then moved onto plastic, started competing (loved that)... then now i'm gradually finding myself moving back to rock... i don't like plastic anymore... my interests change with time...
I wonder does anyone have that same problem happening to them? or is it a natural thing... i've been climbing for coming 8 years now...
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caughtinside
Jul 20, 2004, 4:34 PM
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There is no comparison.
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euroford
Jul 20, 2004, 4:40 PM
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plastic sucks. its nothing but a winter training tool.
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soccer_fan
Jul 20, 2004, 4:46 PM
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Plastic is rediculous, yeah there's hard stuff to be done on it, but its all training, nothing about it truely compares to rock unless someone has spraypainted a crag using the colors from a Skittles bag...
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nevenneve
Jul 20, 2004, 4:53 PM
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I grew up in CO and did a fair amount of alpine type stuff. Ended up in MN for too long with short trips back in the summer. Started rappelling and bouldering on those trips. I have come very close, on at least ten occasions, to buying a rope and harness. Anyways, I finally bought a harness etc. and started climbing indoors about 5-6 days a week. Got a decent amount of proficiency at technique and put on a little muscle between the attic and the cellar. It gets a little wintry up here to totally swear off the gym(can you say Nicros owns it and is putting on an addition chock full of their newest goodies) for a good chunk of the year. With the addition of a few climbing partners in the 6+ months I have reguarly climbed there is no doubt I enjoy the outdoors more. I think I was the butt of a few jokes for being a little ragged on a recent trip due to a lack of route finding skills and indoors mindset. You just do not find the amount of variety and skills needed to climb in a natural enviroment in the gym ( really thin stemming on glass with overly flexible gym shoes gave me an inoppurtune class in using ascenders)
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dredsovrn
Jul 20, 2004, 4:55 PM
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It's rock for me. Plastic is for winter/bad weather training and getting in a quick climbing workout at home. That's me though. I am trying to get more real rock holds for my wall at home. Synroc save yourself the time of PMing me about your holds. I will be ordering some soon.
Anybody know a good source for holds made from actual rocks? I have picked up a few here and there when people were selling off their holds. I know I can find them and drill holes in them, but that sounds a lot like work.
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jammin
Jul 20, 2004, 5:03 PM
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That's exactly what we did for our buddy's bouldering wall. Whenever we could, we brought rocks back and drilled holes in them. Makes for a more interesting wall and helps us through the long winters.
I don't even climb indoor in winter now. Have a hangboard, just do that. I'd rather hike up peaks in the Daks.
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tyify
Jul 20, 2004, 5:14 PM
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For those of us who live in AK its something to do in the winter...as the climbing areas are covered by several feet of snow... The gym becomes a place to hang and climb...
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jem
Jul 20, 2004, 5:18 PM
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Maybe my problem is unique. For i come from a tropical country with almost no rock. Most times plastic is the only option whilst rock is only possible on holidays - short trips to neighbouring countries like thailand and malaysia. So it is almost like i hate plastic but i have to do it.
But then again, i have been a competitive climber before and its just that i feel like i no longer know plastic anymore... the feeling is gone... has anyone felt that before?
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keinangst
Jul 20, 2004, 5:38 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: plastic sucks. its nothing but a winter training tool. True that.
Or here, it's what you do from May, all summer, until the cool September evenings roll back around...
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dynofever
Jul 20, 2004, 5:42 PM
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I've been climbing on plastic for 3 yrs. But lately I have started to get on rock. I just do what I enjoy. Sometimes I feel like sitting in the gym ready to crank on some crazy boulder problem, or sometimes I feel like going out to the local crag and find a project. Flow to whatever you feel like doing.
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dredsovrn
Jul 20, 2004, 5:43 PM
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In reply to: That's exactly what we did for our buddy's bouldering wall. Whenever we could, we brought rocks back and drilled holes in them. Makes for a more interesting wall and helps us through the long winters. I don't even climb indoor in winter now. Have a hangboard, just do that. I'd rather hike up peaks in the Daks.
Maybe this is easier than I thought. Can you just use a hand drill or do you need a press? What kind of bit do you need?
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rockn_j
Jul 20, 2004, 5:50 PM
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I just dont like plastic, nor will I ever start liking it. It just doesn't
have the diversity and "Mother Nature" challenge I love so much.
The only time I will climb on plastic is when the weather will
permit nothing else. Rock please!
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mdenham
Jul 20, 2004, 5:51 PM
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I've only climbed indoors so far so I'm quite happy with it. I really enjoy it, and I will probably continue to climb indoors until I get bored of it or really want to climb outdoors. Once I've climbed outdoors, I will probably not enjoy indoors as much, but for now i'm quite happy. :)
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climb_plastic
Jul 20, 2004, 9:27 PM
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Those that like climbing indoors enjoy climbing more than those that don't like climbing indoors. I like to climb because to me it's just plain fun to climb whether it's indoors or outdoors. I can't wait to climb outdoors again...heck, I can't wait to climb at my gym tonight.
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treesail
Jul 20, 2004, 9:58 PM
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When you live in flat-ass Michigan with a baby, your options are pretty limited.
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bouldereldo
Jul 20, 2004, 10:29 PM
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Seriously, this is not a sales pitch! I have plastic and real stone on my wall and side by side there is no comparison!
I find these river/glacial polished Fountain Formation stones,use a hammer drill to drill screw holes, and a grinder to grind the backs flat. This is the same stone as Eldorado canyon, Flagstaff, flatirons, etc....
I posted a couple of photos of some:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=35283
http://www.rockclimbing.com/photos.php?Action=Show&PhotoID=35372
I hate to "sell" them because I'm a climber and I love stone, I'm not a salesman. But I would really like other people to enjoy these holds too. Each one is a carefully handcrafted unique piece that may take anywhere from 1-3 hours to make. Let me know if interested and I'll look into how much shipping would run. Or look me up when you're in the Boulder area!
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hipdos
Jul 20, 2004, 10:57 PM
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I am not sure if comparing rock and plastic holds is relevant to answering this question. Outdoor climbing involves climbing a complete rock face, not just pulling on rock holds. Personally I love both types of climbing, but there is just so much more to love about being outdoors.
Also, isn't there ethical issues with taking rocks from the crag to use as holds on a home wall? I guess there is a trillion rocks out there, basically an endless supply. I once took a couple of rocks from Arapiles but felt so uncomfortable with having them in the back yard that I returned them on my last trip there. Maybe its OK if the rocks are not from a climbing area.
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bouldereldo
Jul 20, 2004, 11:13 PM
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I agree climbing on rock indoors isn't the same. If I do have to climb inside I sure do prefer it over plastic! For the record, I never take rocks from the crags, especially Eldo. There is a farmer that is nice enough to let me go out and collect them from his field.
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salamanizer
Jul 21, 2004, 6:58 AM
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Registered: Jul 3, 2004
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Talk all the crap you want about plastic. Yeah, real rock has a better feel, it takes more mental thought, the air is fresher, the climbs arnt so obvious and its much more glamourous. However, their is no doubt in my mind that I attribute my ability to climb 5.13 sole-ly to plastic. You can easily chock up 1000 feet of climbing in a few hours, and you can make the climbs as diverse as your imagination. If you want to be able to climb those difficult classics at your local crag. Give the plastic time and sweat and you will shine outdoors.
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overlord
Jul 21, 2004, 7:02 AM
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rock. n doubt about that. platic is just a good training platform.
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vertical_planar
Jul 21, 2004, 7:13 AM
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In contrast to most climbers I started by climbing rock and only later climbed on a wall after moving from Greece to the much colder UK. Although I prefer the rock, I have to admit that my climbing ability improved when I started to train indoors simply because of the increased intensity of training.
Gym is quantity over quality, but sometimes this is what you need...
So, I guess the answer is that I like the gym and see it as a preparation to enjoy as much as possible those few and dear outdoors trips I can afford.
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lnmego
Jul 22, 2004, 3:35 AM
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In reply to: In reply to: That's exactly what we did for our buddy's bouldering wall. Whenever we could, we brought rocks back and drilled holes in them. Makes for a more interesting wall and helps us through the long winters. I don't even climb indoor in winter now. Have a hangboard, just do that. I'd rather hike up peaks in the Daks. Maybe this is easier than I thought. Can you just use a hand drill or do you need a press? What kind of bit do you need?
hand held electric drill will work, find a non-impact 7/16th inch masonry bit that will fit in your 3/8 chuck (impact bits fit differently and require a hammer drill). Find rocks with a flat back so they won't crack.
start with softer rocks. be careful of cracking when tightening. consider using non-hex headed bolts for cost reasons. use water when drilling (i use a hose), good luck. post pics. :)
oh, i think it was a 1/4 inch bit i used in order to make holds similar to the ones the guy is selling--the screw on type.
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scubasnyder
Jul 22, 2004, 3:48 AM
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ROCK all the way
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