|
pbjosh
Jul 22, 2004, 11:13 PM
Post #1 of 5
(2316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Anyone climbed Shipoopi? I hear it's a little exciting but fairly well protected by Tuolomne standards. I read a reference to turning the crux roof/overlap and a 15' dash of excitement to a bolt. Anyone have comments - does it earn it's grade from pump, insecurity, hard moves, scary, or all 4? How run out are the easier pitches/sections?
Be great to hear from anyone who's climbed it, I can't find a lot of info on the net and I've not met anyone who's climbed it.
Thanks,
josh
|
|
|
|
|
sunnysloper
Jul 23, 2004, 12:42 AM
Post #2 of 5
(2316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 26, 2004
Posts: 5
|
Hi Josh,
I climbed the first 3 pitches last summer. The second is one of the best (and friendliest) pitches of slab/knob climbing I've done on the Meadows. Clean, sustained and exposed. 11d for being sustained.
The first is straight forward but requires the follower to risk a swinging fall into the ramp below, easy ground, no big deal for a competent follower. Short 11a section
The 10cish crux of the third is about ten feet above the belay with no pro between you and the hanging belay. a slip might land you on the belayer.
We rapped below the 4th pitch after kind of trying the roof problem. After a couple of safe, but exposed and draining, "take/whips". I think I saw a way but didn't want to commit to it, so I quit.
So My Beta is: 1) Bring a strong partner 2) Know that you can bail clean and easy after looking at the roof problem, if your not up for it that day. 3) Savor the 2nd pitch. 4) don't confuse the 1st pitch of Shipoopi with the first pitch of Slider-Banger
Good Luck,
Mike
|
|
|
|
|
tigerbythetail
Jul 23, 2004, 1:07 AM
Post #3 of 5
(2316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 514
|
88
|
|
|
|
|
pbjosh
Jul 23, 2004, 5:49 AM
Post #4 of 5
(2316 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 22, 2002
Posts: 1518
|
Heya Chris,
I've got enough info to get up it, but I've had some experiences in Tuolomne that have been a lot more exciting than I had anticipated, I've got healthy respect for routes there. I recently got inspired for this route after seeing a shot of Heidi Wirtz on it and, though it's a pretty famous route, have never heard much about it other than the odd comment... actually Supertopo doesn't offer a topo. I don't care too much for a really detailed topo vs. a not so detailed, I imagine I'll find the route. Just curious for experiences from people that've been on it, whether I should bring diapers or not ;)
|
|
|
|
|
socalbolter
Feb 19, 2008, 11:21 PM
Post #5 of 5
(1003 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 27, 2002
Posts: 796
|
Somehow came across this super old thread.
Josh - you would not have a problem on it at all. The section around the roof is a little head and somewhat tricky to figure out, but I don't remember ever being in a totally WTF position at all.
Not sure if you ever ended up going up there and doing it, but if not I would suggest getting on and doing any and all of the routes on this great dome that you feel up for. Even the dreaded BY is not that bad (climbing wise) - you just don't want to fall. I've heard of folks coming down from the adjacent routes and toproping, ticking holds, preplacing draws (to give something to aim for when climbing), etc., but once you're used to the rock and knobs it is not as bad as one might first think. I did it back in '92 (?) after spending a few successive weekends up there knob climbing. Had a "get your crap together" moment, but never truly felt like I would fall.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
