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geosparky
Jul 17, 2004, 6:12 PM
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Registered: Apr 8, 2004
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Hello all,
I have tried to find (though be it not that hard) the lower Mount Scott outcrops that are listed on this webpage. The discription is not clear after where to park. I was just wanting to know so I could climb in the mornings before mount scott gates are open and the rocks are not too hot to climb on. Upper mount Scott is the only place in the Witchitas that I have found to climb and was wondering if someone could get me info to other sites. One last question what would be on your rack for a Witchita climb, am trying to build my rack and was woundering what pro is most used out here.
Thanks all and good luck climbing.
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bsignorelli
Jul 17, 2004, 7:22 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2003
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I've never climbed at the LMS area but you do have to go past the Mt Scott gates at the bottom of the mountain to get to them.
In reply to: To get to LMS, locate the pullout on the mountain that is just below the UMS area, on the lake side of the mountain. You will know that you are in the right location if you can see the upper area from your car. [snip] The rangers will give tickets to cars that are parked outside of the pullout area. To find the trail, hike east to the end of the guardrail. The trail down begins there. The walls are about 100 yards off of the road.
As far as gear...the standard stuff works well along with some tricams and nuts. I always seem to find passive placements on Witchita climbs. Oh...lots of slings to extend placements in order to help minimize rope drag on wandering routes.
Bryan
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gravitysucks
Jul 20, 2004, 2:46 AM
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Registered: Dec 11, 2002
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[indigo]the description on how to get to LMS on this site is good. it's the third pullout from the gates at the bottom. I have seen people parked at the bottom outside the gates. so if you want to climb before the gates open, park at the bottom of Mt. Scott and walk up the road to the third pullout...it's about a mile and half.
bsignorelli is absolutely right. a standard rack will get you by in the Wichitas just fine. there are a few routes that need a couple bigger cams, but a set of nuts and cams to 3 will get you by for almost everything out there. get a couple tricams (#0, #1 & #4 is what we use) and slings for sure.[/indigo]
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stickels
Jul 20, 2004, 10:01 PM
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Registered: Apr 5, 2004
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chandra is right. Fairly easy to find. Head off down the hill (toward the lake). You'll know when you find the cliff band cause it'll drop off in front of you about 80-85 feet. Look right in front of you and you'll see the anchor for "high anxiety" or you can walk left (with the lake on your right) to a scramble down.
LMS is a fairly unique place in the wichitas. the cracks are laser cut and the edges are usually pretty sharp = good jamin'. Because of that I usually take a few extra small cams (think bd .3 to .75). I always seem to find a place for those guys there, where they are actually stable and you don't have to work to hard to get a good one in, yet again unique to the wichitas.
If you go down there and don't get on "mr. clean", well you wasted you day. Best 5.8 I have ever been on. Clean, steep, and great gear (some even stuck in the roof crack, green bd). If you are going to lead or top rope that one you need to bring some biggies down, like a #4 and I used a #3 and a #3.5 on the mid section of the crack.
have fun and be careful
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vayporz
Aug 3, 2004, 6:23 PM
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Registered: Jul 29, 2003
Posts: 12
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In reply to: Hello all, Upper mount Scott is the only place in the Witchitas that I have found to climb and was wondering if someone could get me info to other sites. Thanks all and good luck climbing.
I was just checking to make sure that you meant that Upper Mount Scott was the only place you had found to climb, On Mount Scott, and not the only place you had found to climb within the Wichitas. There are numerous walls throughout the refuge.
The Narrows, and Charon's garden contain a variety of good climbs if you don't mind a slight walk from the car, and both contain a bevy of areas and climbs of all grades.
If you need more information let me know. The guidebook that I use of the refuge (and other OK climbing areas) is out of print (its author still working in India, I believe). However I have some topos I made of the climbing areas I would send to you, if you wish. I made them from GPS logs and waypointing, so they are fairly accurate.
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