|
ikellen
Aug 3, 2004, 8:39 PM
Post #1 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 13, 2003
Posts: 393
|
I have been climbing on my current rack for a while now, and now I figured out most of the holes, so Im working on fillling them. the one question I had: I don't have many larger cams (I have nothing beyond 3" really), so im wondering if I should put more emphasis on having something for the entire spectrum from nuts up to the big BD/WC pieces, or should I double up on my mid sized pieces? I've had a few times where I had to place something but I placed the piece that would have fit in that spot 20 ft below me, so I was forced to run it out to the next possible placement. On the flip side, I've run into offwidth sections where I didnt have a piece big enough and was forced to run it out until the crack got smaller. What should I do?
|
|
|
|
|
dalguard
Aug 3, 2004, 8:57 PM
Post #2 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2003
Posts: 239
|
Realistically you aren't likely to carry anything bigger than a #3 Camalot up a route with you unless you know for sure you need it. To go a step further, we often find that we don't carry anything bigger than a #3 Camalot to the crag in the first place, so that even when we stand there on the ground thinking, "looks like a big cam would be handy on this route," we don't have them with us and still end up going without.
So what I'm saying is that bigger gear spends a lot of time in your trunk whereas doubles in useful sizes tend to actually get placed.
|
|
|
|
|
dgkula
Aug 3, 2004, 9:57 PM
Post #3 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 6, 2004
Posts: 73
|
I have a set of 11 WC Tech Friends: 0 - 4. #4 is a monster and, like my #10 hex, doesn't always make it onto my rack depending on what I'm climbing.
I was recently thinking about doubling up myself - there's quite a bit of overlap though in the medium sized cams in the WC lineup with 1.25, 1.5, 1.75 so I was thinking about getting another 0, 0.5 and 1. Those 3 smaller sized always seem to be the ones I wish I had more of and I can't always find a nut to fit the crack.
With the medium sized pieces there's quite a bit of overlap (see above) and I can always find a nut (I have 1.5 sets), a smaller hex, or a tricam.
My $0.02.
|
|
|
|
|
soccer_fan
Aug 3, 2004, 10:12 PM
Post #4 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 17, 2003
Posts: 156
|
I got the wide gear, but have placed it a lot less than the pieces that I've since doubled up on - if you've got the cash do both (just get doubles w/ Forged Friends if you like 'em) - or get a medium large cam (say #4 Camalot) and another hands or fingers sized cam depending on what you wish for more of on-route.
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Aug 3, 2004, 10:33 PM
Post #5 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: I have been climbing on my current rack for a while now, and now I figured out most of the holes, so Im working on fillling them. the one question I had: I don't have many larger cams (I have nothing beyond 3" really),
Since you find yourself needing it, why not buy big gear too? If you're like me, that may not solve your problems though. While I don't use big pro (larger than #5 Friend) often, when I want it, I may not be carrying enough.
|
|
|
|
|
sspssp
Aug 3, 2004, 11:14 PM
Post #6 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 1731
|
Its true that most big gear stays in the gear box. So unless there are particular routes or areas that you know you will want big gear, you would get more mileage out of doubling up medium sized pieces.
On the other hand, if, for instance, you want to be a well-rounded Yosemite big wall climber, eventually you are going to have to tackle climbing big cracks, which is a lot easier if you have at least one big cam to push in front of you.
When I first started climbing on a budget, my biggest piece was a #7 tri-cam, which is actually pretty big and pretty afordable. Not the easiest thing to place, but it got used.
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Aug 3, 2004, 11:24 PM
Post #7 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
Being from S.D. Ca you will probably be climbing mostly at Tahquitz and J Tree. In both areas stuff in the .5-.75 camalot range is the most usefull, but wider gear is also. A #2,3,and 3-1/2 camalot or equal would be a good addition. Most of the time I end up placing the #4 (if I have it) quickly to get rid of it.
Tricams (the smallest 4 or 5) and large hexes are good less expensive alternatives for the tight hands and fist sizes respectively. Particularly for belay anchors where both the leader and second, (cleaning) can fool with them from a comfortable stance.
|
|
|
|
|
ottoman
Aug 4, 2004, 12:37 AM
Post #8 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 26, 2003
Posts: 149
|
I've gotten a new 3.5 rigid Friend to supplement the rack....Also already have a #4 WC from way back....Still run into some pitches that have some use for that type of pro out here!!...Good Climbing!!
|
|
|
|
|
davidji
Aug 4, 2004, 1:40 AM
Post #9 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 30, 2003
Posts: 1776
|
In reply to: I've gotten a new 3.5 rigid Friend to supplement the rack....Also already have a #4 WC from way back....Still run into some pitches that have some use for that type of pro out here!!...Good Climbing!!
Oh and to the original poster, it sounds like your rack is pretty light from medium-large and up. I'd expect you'd want to start with #4 Friend or similar (3.5 Camalot, etc). Then bigger. Granted, bigger than #4 Friend aren't as common to use, but it sounds like you're mostly covered for the more common stuff.
Can you fill in some of the holes by combining with your partner's rack? More and more I'm climbing with people without, so I realize that isn't always possible.
|
|
|
|
|
ihuang
Aug 4, 2004, 1:58 AM
Post #10 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 6, 2002
Posts: 194
|
I started out with BD Camalots from .5 to 3 and then doubled up with Metolius #5-8 for $150. I now have a #4 Camalot, but it has only been place a couple of times. I would suggest you to double up first before going for the bigger pieces.
|
|
|
|
|
alpnclmbr1
Aug 4, 2004, 2:19 AM
Post #11 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 10, 2002
Posts: 3060
|
My standard rack for calif. stops at a #2 camalot. I can do 90% of the routes around with that rack.
Double up on the mid-size (particularly whatever is thin hands for you)
A #3 camalot is often useful. (if I need a second I will use a friend.)
3-1/2 and 4 are special route specific pieces unless your into offwidths.
|
|
|
|
|
pipsqueekspire
Aug 4, 2004, 8:53 PM
Post #12 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2003
Posts: 222
|
I would suggest doubling up then buying wider gear when you know you'll use it like on a visit to the Desert Towers of Utah.
BUT- I would suggest buying 2 kinds of cams to double up with. I have both a full set of BD camalots and a full set of aliens. So many times I have run into placements where a #2 Camalot will not fit but a white alien does because of the narrow head. What ever your preference for brands I suggest two kinds because of their tendency to fill the 'gaps' in each others size range. This becomes even more important when you get into the .5 and smaller range camalot size which is much bulkier to place than a TCU or alien.
-best of luck.... its fun building a rack!
-pip
|
|
|
|
|
caughtinside
Aug 5, 2004, 2:15 AM
Post #13 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603
|
I got the #4 DMM, same size as a 4 WC and close to the 3.5 camalot.
I carry it on most multipitch climbs along with BD #3, and find that I always place it. If not on the pitch, usually in an anchor. Bigger gear is really nice to have. Especially since I tend to feel less secure in wider cracks.
On the other hand, doubles are nice too... so I would have to say it depends on what you're doing. If most of your trad is single pitch, you might be better off with doubles, since you can spy the line from the ground, or get beta from a guidebook.
|
|
|
|
|
jerrygarcia
Aug 5, 2004, 3:07 AM
Post #14 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 27, 2002
Posts: 837
|
small stuff
1 set stoppers-black diamond
Aliens green through black
1 BD Camalot #1
Micro camalots .1, .2 and .3
Big stuff
BD hexes #9-#11
1 WC tech friend #4
1 WC forged friend #3.5
|
|
|
|
|
dalguard
Aug 5, 2004, 3:09 PM
Post #15 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 1, 2003
Posts: 239
|
I agree about doubling up with a different brand. If you don't have Camalots, get them. If you do, get something else. Caveat: I don't like the Micro-Camalots (below the .4.). I'd go Aliens plus something else in that range. We've been carrying Aliens plus Hybrid Aliens lately and loving it.
|
|
|
|
|
stymingersfink
Aug 6, 2004, 12:48 AM
Post #16 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 12, 2003
Posts: 7250
|
heres what I double up on:
TCU 00-4
camalots .5-3.5 (triples on #'s 1 and 2, maybe single #4)
Alien hybrids
Lowe Tri-cams .5-2
1 1/2 sets BD stoppers (doubles on 4-10)
1 set Metolius curve hexs
remember... friends don't let friends climb off-widths. If you climb with someone who insists on hitting the OW's, they will have the gear to protect it (let them lead it)
On my last backcountry climb, we took the number 3, and ended up leaving it at basecamp thw whole time. Yeah, I would have placed it if I had it, but instead just fired through the section and placed a piece above it.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Aug 8, 2004, 2:03 AM
Post #17 of 17
(1816 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
My standard rack starts with two 4.5 camalots and goes up from there to Valley Giants.
I wouldn't recommend getting the #5 Big Bro until you have doubles of the smaller stuff like the #12 wagon wheel.
What I'm saying is that it all depends on tyhe kind of climbing you want to do.
Brutus
|
|
|
|
|
|
