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floof
May 9, 2002, 4:08 AM
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Registered: Jan 11, 2002
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I was at Pinnacles where the rocks jut out of the face. A climbing partner told me that you can tie a sling around these protrusion. I should've asked him what's the best method but I wasn't thinking.
Has anyone slung a knob before?
What knot did you use?
How long of a sling?
Did it work?
* * * John
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wallhammer
May 9, 2002, 4:17 AM
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Registered: Oct 26, 2001
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one way is to girth hitch the sling so the sling will "cam" in the downward pull position. (hope this makes sense) also smaller knobs/horns might require the smaller width (9/16) slings,which will stick, when a fatter 3/4 or 1 inch sling would roll off.
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roadtrip
May 9, 2002, 4:27 AM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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Knobs can be great pro. A chickenhead protrusion at the end of the knob can be very helpful in keeping the sling on the knob. John Long advocates a girth hitch to secure the sling; though this can become an impossibility if the sling is too short for the knob(and don't forget girth hitches reduce sling strength by 30%). Another thing to consider when slinging knobs is to weight down the end of the sling(extra biner, gear, etc) to avoid the sling from walking as you ascend. And a final consideration is to place a piece(ie a nut) in the gap through which the sling must walk to come off of the knob. Even though this additional piece is meant to retain the sling, and not to accept load, don't forget to attach it to the sling or rope, or something, to prevent the piece from coming loose and becoming a projectile.
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crackaddict
May 9, 2002, 4:30 AM
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Registered: Jun 24, 2000
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I use 9/16 slings from shoulder length to 44 inches long. Mostly the longer ones.
There is a way but it might be hard to ex plain in writing. An over hand on a bight knot works but I use a sliding over hand knot because it is easier to tighten and losen.
Take a sling and put it around a horn.
Grab the left side and twist it to make a loop. By turning it away from you.
Now take a bight from the lower part with your right hand and feed it through the back side of the loop.
Now pull it tight.
It should look like an over hand on one side sliding on a a single piece.
Now you can cinch it up to where you need.
I hope you can understand it from my directions.
Good luck!
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rickoldskool
May 9, 2002, 6:03 AM
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Registered: Apr 25, 2002
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floof, use a slip knot. It CAN be snugged around them horns and only one strand wraps it, which is better on small horns. Usually a 2ft runner (sewn or tied) is appropriate. Girth hitches work but are only tight when weighted.
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a510poser
Jun 15, 2002, 2:57 PM
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Registered: Jun 7, 2002
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When slinging knobs at the Pinnacles it's extremely important to check the integriety of the knob. You can do this by knocking on the knob as you would a door. If you get a nice sharp report that sounds like your hitting the whole cliff you're looking good. If you get a dull thud you better find a new knob or run it out. You always know when an experienced Pinnacles climber is in the area cause you will hear 'em long before you see 'em. Tap tap tap tap tap...
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