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jakemojo13
Aug 16, 2004, 2:18 PM
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Planning on climbing Nose and Sundial. Our rack has some gaps. Anyone have good beta on what pro to take for these two climbs? Specifics would be appreciated. I have read that .5/1/1.5 tri-cams are useful (have 2 of each), and small cams (have 2/3/4 Metolius TCU, 1/2/3 Trango, 1 Alien). We have set of stoppers, no hex nuts. Are stoppers no good for eyebrows? I have some bigger cams too. Leave them at home? Any specific info on quantities and sizes would be appreciated.
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bumblie
Aug 16, 2004, 2:26 PM
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The beta you stated above is pretty accurate. There are occassional nut placements and big cracks, but small camming units (SLCDs and Tri-cams) are what you want.
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mmckinney
Aug 16, 2004, 2:32 PM
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tcus are great for the eyebrows, i use them down to 00 and have doubles for 1 thru 3. there are places for # 2 camalots at the "parking lot" if you want to build your own anchor, and not hang out on the sundial rap station or the old bolts on the edge of the ledge. tricams work good, but if i was to carry doubles of anything it would be tcus. 1 set of stoppers... etc, sounds like you got it.
mark
the climbing on these two climbs is very doable, with lots of gear options and fun moves.
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brianinslc
Aug 16, 2004, 3:07 PM
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In reply to: tcus are great for the eyebrows, i use them down to 00 and have doubles for 1 thru 3. there are places for # 2 camalots at the "parking lot" if you want to build your own anchor, and not hang out on the sundial rap station or the old bolts on the edge of the ledge. tricams work good, but if i was to carry doubles of anything it would be tcus. 1 set of stoppers... etc, sounds like you got it.
Ditto doubles on the smaller TCU's. Top of second pitch of Sundial:
http://mtncommunity.org/...4063276814bc6be4.jpg
I can't recall placing a single stopper on either the Nose or Sundial Crack. I know I took a set...but...
I think the rack was TCU's 0-4 (doubles on 1 and 2), camalots .5 - 3 (doubles on 1 and 2). Slings and draws to extend every piece (otherwise you get a fair amount of drag as the pieces really fit under the eyebrows a ways).
I have a personal dislike for tri cams, but, they work pretty well (as evidenced by all the stuck ones!).
Anyhoo, seems like the guidebook recommendations for gear was pretty spot on for both routes.
Both great routes.
Brian in SLC
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jakemojo13
Aug 16, 2004, 4:25 PM
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Thanks! Especially appreciate the picture. So that's an eyebrow....We have little Active cam redundancy in our rack so I guess the tricams will have to do. Sounds like I have enough to make it safely.
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brianinslc
Aug 16, 2004, 4:37 PM
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In reply to: Thanks! Especially appreciate the picture. So that's an eyebrow....We have little Active cam redundancy in our rack so I guess the tricams will have to do. Sounds like I have enough to make it safely.
Crazy place...festooned on that side with eyebrows. Couple more shots...second pitch of Sundial Crack...
http://mtncommunity.org/...406326fe14b9440d.jpg
From the ground, just to the left of Sundail (and right of the nose):
http://mtncommunity.org/...406327cc14c26e9b.jpg
Cheers!
-Brian in SLC
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bumblie
Aug 16, 2004, 4:48 PM
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One more thing. You'll need two ropes for the rappels.
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cammaniac
Aug 16, 2004, 4:53 PM
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I have found that Tri-cams are great for the eyebrows. In fact, Looking Glass is the only place i have found to use them.
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brianc
Aug 16, 2004, 5:11 PM
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In reply to: I can't recall placing a single stopper on either the Nose or Sundial Crack. I know I took a set...but... I think the rack was TCU's 0-4 (doubles on 1 and 2), camalots .5 - 3 (doubles on 1 and 2). Slings and draws to extend every piece (otherwise you get a fair amount of drag as the pieces really fit under the eyebrows a ways)
Yep. Nary a nut was placed on Sundial.
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coylec
Aug 17, 2004, 4:26 AM
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You definately want doubles for TCUs 1-3.
You'll also REALLY want to create your own belay on the parking lot. Be careful about where your rope runs ... couple of tight places that can screw up your rope. There's also a really questional old bolt or so up there too, more on the lip than at the back where the rap is.
coylec
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coylec
Aug 17, 2004, 4:29 AM
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Brian - you're on peregrine in that second shot, right? never got to do that one -- is it worth doing? have you done sensemillia sunset? which is better?
coylec
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brianinslc
Aug 17, 2004, 3:00 PM
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In reply to: Brian - you're on peregrine in that second shot, right? never got to do that one -- is it worth doing? have you done sensemillia sunset? which is better?
That's BrianC on Peregrine. We tr'd it on the way down (with 2 ropes, one being a kinda thin 6mm pull cord, probably not recommended!). I was surprised how reasonable it felt, but, that might be the TR talkin' too. Seemed well protected. Kind of buyer's remorse that I didn't lead it, but, still fun mileage. Haven't done the other route.
Fun place.
-Brian in SLC
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bumblie
Aug 17, 2004, 3:09 PM
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Peregrine is great. One or two cruxy moves and lots of 5.7-5.8. Best to lead with two ropes. When I got to the belay, my ropes dropped straight down, about 10' apart.
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bumblie
Aug 17, 2004, 3:13 PM
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One side benefit of using tricams, in those nice and deep eyebrows, is you get to laugh at your second, as he cusses while cleaning them.
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j_ung
Aug 17, 2004, 4:16 PM
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Yaaaayyyy, Looking Glass! coylec, IMO, Sensamilla Sunset is the better -- and harder of the two, though it's also a little bit more licheny. They both have slightly scary cruxes, but neither is out of the ordinary for Looking Glass. Have fun! Do both routes!
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