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dinglestyle
Aug 21, 2004, 12:55 AM
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Registered: Oct 27, 2003
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What are the top ten Climbs in WV?
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 21, 2004, 1:26 AM
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I wil not attempt to put these in order but will throw out a few possibilitys.
PLEASANT OVERHANG
ALCOA PRESENTS W/ DIRECT START
GUNSITE TO SOUTH PEAK DIRECT
CRACK OF DAWN
WILD MEN
WEST POLE W/ DIRECT FINISH
SOLAR
HIGH TEST
TOMATO
EXTACY
This is allways hard to call. i feel that these kind of questions are better if they have 2 catagorys. 5.10 and under 5.11 and harder
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jerrygarcia
Aug 21, 2004, 2:29 AM
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In reply to: GUNSITE TO SOUTH PEAK DIRECT WEST POLE W/ DIRECT FINISH EXTACY
This man speaks truth. I will add:
The Burn
Ye Gods and Little Fishes
SkyLine Traverse(easy climb awesome views)
[edit] if you want to amp up exstacy, free climb 20ft to a ledge and belay in 1 pitch from there.
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crackmd
Aug 21, 2004, 2:33 AM
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Have not climbed much in WV, but Leave it to Jesus is one of the finest crack lines I have done. Bomber fingerlocks and easily protected with a crux move at the finish. Has to be somewhere close to the top.
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zetedog
Aug 21, 2004, 2:57 AM
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What grade, what area? WV probably has more than 10 classics at every grade (and even every letter in the upper grades).
There are many fine 13+'s in NRG that I'll never be able to climb, but I am sure they should be included on the list. There are nearly 150 independent lines at Seneca (not counting link-ups), Lord knows how many in NRG (400+), then theres summersville lake, undocumented climbs around Seneca, and so one. In addition to the 10+/- distinction, you probably need sport vs trad (tho I hate that segregation).
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brianc
Aug 21, 2004, 3:36 AM
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Good stuff so far though I'll take exception with Skyline Traverse. It has "the move" but the rest of the climb is pretty unexceptional up a gully. I'll nominate another Seneca moderate though w/ Conn's East. Good exposure and some fantastic moves - plus it lands you right on the summit.
I'll also nominate Rico Suave and Flight of the Gumbie at the NRG. I'll also put out The Spectre at the NRG which was one of those climbs that I flailed on many years ago and has since captured the imagination. I remember it as cool line but it could be a big pile of crap. :)
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 21, 2004, 1:09 PM
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Seneca has 450 rts in the book. Skyline, burn or ye gods wouldn't make the cut. Note that Extacy was the only climb on my list that didn't summit on either north or south peak. Extacy is defionatly over rated as a Seneca classic for the reason that it does not reach either summit. i included it because the climbing is pretty fun. I was tempted to ax Extacy on general principals (too crouded)
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darth_gaydar
Aug 21, 2004, 1:18 PM
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Cellibate Mallard
Leave it to Jesus
The Spectre
Discombobulated
The Undeserved
Supercrack
Magnitude
Black & Tan
Freaky Stylee
The Prowesse
I've only done a handful of routes at Seneca Choss, and none were as good as these, although I am certain there are some great routes there so don't bash too hard. One's list should only include stuff they been on, right?
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tradmanclimbs
Aug 21, 2004, 1:26 PM
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Definatly can not include a rt that you have not climbed.
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dynobelay
Aug 23, 2004, 10:00 PM
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"Psychotic Reaction" 5.8+ at Champe Rocks is without a doubt in the top 10 list. Its a crack climb 3 full pitches long on an airy vertical face. Oh there are excellant harder climbs at NRG and Seneca, but what other 5.8 can touch it? Plus the length and setting put it a quality notch above even harder routes (such as "Leave it to Jesus").
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capn_morgan
Aug 23, 2004, 11:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 7, 2003
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Agree with whats been said for seneca....
my favorite bolted climbes are
Rico Suave (Rico Suave Buttress, NRG)
St Pauli Girl (Bubba City, NRG)
FLight of the Gumby (NRG) .....A great climb, with an even better name
:D
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