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berserker45
Sep 1, 2004, 4:00 AM
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I been into climbing for a long time now but haven't had time to hit the local gym, and so school just started and its senior year and so I got tons of time on my hands. So I been heading to the gym, and I gotten to the point where I can do all the V0 routes (yeah I rock), and a few V1's.
I know its not a competition but I truley can't help but envy people who are pulling crazy dynos and just rockin some routes. And I really can't wait till it becomes more of a question of my mind and how I approach a problem rather than my physical strength boundaries.
Hence, the question of how long until you were at a point where you felt like you were challenged beyond just a physical aspect?
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climber49er
Sep 1, 2004, 4:23 AM
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I'm going to take a wild stab and say that evry climber, no matter their level, is hindered by physical limitations of some sort.
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mheyman
Sep 1, 2004, 5:08 AM
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In reply to: And I really can't wait till it becomes more of a question of my mind and how I approach a problem rather than my physical strength boundaries. Hence, the question of how long until you were at a point where you felt like you were challenged beyond just a physical aspect?
Most common beginner statement in a gym: "I'm not strong enough" is almost always incorrect. Anything and everything you do wrong technique wise will make you feel as though you just need to be stronger. As you practice learning technique you will get stronger. It is almost impossible to get one without the other.
So, practice and be happy you are going to get better!
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mattmax45
Sep 1, 2004, 6:01 AM
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Listen to the others they are wise, and can help you. :D
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pylonhead
Sep 1, 2004, 6:40 AM
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I've been climbing 2-3 times a week for a year now. I'm starting to get into the v2-v3 range in the gym, but I'm 34. I've seen plenty of younger climbers get that far in 1/2 the time or less.
For me, progress has been pretty linear. My strength and technique have both been improving over time. One of the most pleasurable experiences has been how the same holds keep getting better and better as my grip strength gets better. There is one climb I used to struggle up outside because of the complete lack of holds in one section. Now I go back and find it rich with possibilities.
To answer your question though.. I think when you start getting into the v2-v3ish range, footwork and body positioning become much more important than they were on easier routes. But you have to have some good strength to with it, of course. In my experience, "I'm not strong enough" was a simple fact of life when I was getting started. I had more experienced people showing me the move, how to hold my body, how to drop knee, etc. But since I couldn't even lock off on the hold, it was pretty much a lost cause.
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stupidboulderer
Sep 1, 2004, 8:08 AM
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try getting out onto some real rock if possible. not only is it ten times more fun, but your technique (especialy foot work) will improve much quicker. Get a pad and look up some local bouldering areas on this sight. Thats how I found my local spot. The gym is too expensive, crowded, gets boring, and is not realistic to real rock.
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vanclimber
Sep 1, 2004, 1:20 PM
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I have noticed that since I have been climbing outside a lot, I have become a lot more reliant on friction, and thus my gym climbing has suffered. Not that I care though.
Don
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overlord
Sep 1, 2004, 1:22 PM
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man, climbing has always been a mind game for me, unless i was on stuff well below my max level.
though i only boulder in the gym.
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dontfall
Sep 1, 2004, 1:35 PM
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I've been climbing for awhile now but probably started bouldering full time last fall. I was bouldering a v1 grade and as of present time, I'm at v2-v3. I basically said to myself I have to start climbing things that I know I can't climb but will make me stronger. I worked and worked on projects and in no time, I was flashing v2 grades. It's a a big accomplishment in my eyes and now I can work v3 routes.
I would say just keep climbing your hardest, even when you get down and think you can't do it, just climb, climb, climb.
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chronicle
Sep 1, 2004, 1:47 PM
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I've been climbing for a while now, so I'm thinking back. When I started climbing, I was so into it that I was outside or in a gym 4 days a week. After three months of that, I sent by first V2. I think the reasons why I was able to move so fast was 1) I was already in great shape; 2) I was working on problems that were in V3, V4 range (they looked fun, and I wanted to do them).
Making the jump from V2 to V3 took a lot longer, almost 1 year, but I wasn't climbing as much hard stuff (working on my trad skills). I started climbing a lot of hard stuff last fall, and in 6 months I went from V3 to V6, but again, I was climbing 4 days/week.
Once above V2/V3, the problems became more about technique, and body placement, rather than strength. So, if you had poor technique, you couldn't just power your way through. My advice to you is keep climbing, but when you are working V0/V1 pay attention to your body and feet. Take them slow and try positioning your body in different ways, taking notice of how it affects your grip, etc.
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rivercityrni
Sep 1, 2004, 1:55 PM
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I've been climbing around a year now, and bouldering for about nine months. When I started climbing I had NO upper body strenghth, and I think this helped me in a lot of ways. I was forced to rely on technique and footwork rather than strength. This has gotten me to V5's so far, so I definitely recommend focusing on footwork.
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andy_reagan
Sep 1, 2004, 6:18 PM
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it took me a few months before I was comfortable on v0s and v1s. A few more months after that I was comfortable projecting and redpointing v3-4s. The more different types of problems you try to climb outside, the quicker you will progress, I think.
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fargoan
Sep 1, 2004, 6:24 PM
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a tip i don't hear repeated too much:
climb at as many different places as possible. each different type of rock comes replete with its own types of holds, slopers/crimps/feet of all shapes and sizes.
you'll be amazed at how climbing on granite micro-smears translates to other kinds of rock.
in addition to grip strength (which comes with climbing more), you want to see as many different types of moves as possible and "figure them out."
climb as much "easy" stuff as possible! don't get caught up in "projecting" something super hard to say you can climb (one) V3 or (one) 5.12a. The beauty of climbing is that it is an additive learning process. It takes time...
JW
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cgailey
Sep 1, 2004, 6:28 PM
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I'm going to second (or fifth or sixth) the vote for climbing outside. Just yesterday I was out climbing for a few hours before I had to work at the gym. A certain problem I put up in the gym has been giving me issues at the crux and I haven't been able to finish the last few moves. Well, lo and behold, I got it first try. Not spraying, just trying to illustrate the benefit of
"real" rock climbing;)
Plus, climbing outside is just so much more fun!
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superfox
Sep 1, 2004, 6:38 PM
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I'm going to suggest something no one else has (I think, I might have missed it). If you're bouldering somewhere, and you see one of those climbers "rocking the routes", and if they seem pretty cool (and most of them are, but sometimes you run into people with big egos), ask them for beta or what you should do. You can even ask them to try the route you're working on. Seeing a good climber climb something you're working on often gives you new ideas and techniques to try.
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jakemojo13
Sep 1, 2004, 6:45 PM
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Much like the others who have replied I have been climbing quite a while and have just recently started to break through. These were the keys to my success in order of priority:
1) Decided climbing was more important than other things, especially partying (part of turning 30, I guess)
2) Dedicated myself to a consistent schedule of climbing (3 times a week plus as many outdoor trips as possible)
3) improved my strength to weight ratio (limiting alcohol made a huge difference)
4) started pilates for flexibility
For me, it was prioritizing climbing in my life that made all the difference. I can't tell you how much potential climbing time I've wasted in the past because of being hungover etc.
As for strength, I gained all of mine from climbing. I do not do ANY strength training. (I just started adding wrist pronators to my after climbing to help avoid injuries). If I have time to lift weights, I should be climbing. In fact I think much of the weight I lost was non-climbing specific muscle mass.
This pratice has gotten me from v1, 5.9 late last year to v4, 5.11 now. I used to climb 5.11 back in my late teens, but it was more about power. Now I feel I am in better control of my body and technique when climbing.
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alpinerock
Sep 2, 2004, 12:42 AM
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umm, my first time out bouldering i got V4, but i have a friends who took years to get to there, its really subjective.
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mattmax45
Sep 2, 2004, 1:31 AM
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In reply to: umm, my first time out bouldering i got V4, but i have a friends who took years to get to there, its really subjective.
In life we find that there are people with natural talent and those that have to work harder on it, david graham once said, he's not a natural at all, he rather has to train that much harder than those who are talented, now he one of the best in the world.
P.S. I once knew a man who onsighted V8/9, you're right it is subjective. :D
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alpinerock
Sep 2, 2004, 9:26 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: umm, my first time out bouldering i got V4, but i have a friends who took years to get to there, its really subjective. In life we find that there are people with natural talent and those that have to work harder on it, david graham once said, he's not a natural at all, he rather has to train that much harder than those who are talented, now he one of the best in the world. P.S. I once knew a man who onsighted V8/9, you're right it is subjective. :D
Yeah it really is subjective, just pulling V8/9 for me takes days sometimes months of projecting and specialized training, and V8 is only half way up the bouldering scale now days, with problems being rated V16 and i'm sure within 5 years V17. You have to remember that these people eat drink and sleep climbing(iknow there are people out there including me who eat drink and sleep climbing too that can't send that hard), and have the resources and time to put in the nessacary training, plus the genetics.
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snowrocker
Sep 3, 2004, 12:18 AM
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I think I was bouldering higher than that my second time, but it is different for everyone. Keep at it.
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sevrdhed
Sep 4, 2004, 6:07 PM
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In reply to: Once above V2/V3, the problems became more about technique, and body placement, rather than strength. So, if you had poor technique, you couldn't just power your way through.
Just wanted to add that this is complete BS. My footwork is absolutely horrendous, but (and this isn't spray, I'm just making a point) I've powered my way through problems that are a good bit harder than v2 and v3. However, if I could do it differently, I would have focused on technique when I first started climbing, instead of being stuck relying on strength nowadays.
Steve
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c-money
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Sep 4, 2004, 9:03 PM
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You need to climb regularly to improve. If you are just starting out, and you climb regularly (say 3 times a week), I would bet that you see some improvement within 2-3 weeks. You are not going to improve if you don't consistently climb.
If you climb regularly and have hit a plateau (ex. you can't power up routes of a harder grade), it is probably time to dial your techniques. Take a technique course at your local gym, ask your buddies for beta, buy smaller shoes and watch your footwork, try climbing easier routes slowly, there are lots of methods to improving.
No one has really mentioned endurance training even though I have found this to be huge. My biggest gains have come from endurance training. Climb longer on easier routes/problems. The ability to hang on and recover is huge when you move to harder climbing.
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hurdles
Sep 4, 2004, 10:11 PM
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It took me about two years to get comfortable at V1 and V2. I can now work (hard) on V3.
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gamehendge
Sep 4, 2004, 10:45 PM
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I've been climbing regularly for about 1 1/2 years pretty seriously now. I climb outdoors almost every weekend and hit the gym @ least 2x a week. I'm starting to finish V4s,5.11s and leading 5.10s w/ confidence. While the gym has improved my endurance and strength, I prefer the outdoors much better. It gives me better instincts and balance. Plus you're outside. I do agree w/ an earlier post of how your physical characteristics has alot to do w/ your limits. I for one weigh in @ 132lbs., 5'7" and I'm 28. I've definitely surpassed or now at the same level as many of my friends who have been climbing alot longer than me. Though due to my shortness, I've come across times where it's a lil harder of reach as compared to someone else who has those couple inches of reach. So I compensate by dynos. Not crazy X-Games dynos mind you, but just the enough. But in many situations, weight or height always give way towards great technique. But in my lil bit of experience, it all comes down to mental focus and clarity. And climbing has truly help me excercise and realize this. The more I am focused, the more I seem to have better technique, dynamically complete problems or move on to the next level. What has helped me the mosty though is when I can (works better in the outdoors) avoid finding out what a grade of a route/problem till I'm done. This way I don't think about it. Obviously, you can pretty much tell what is a 5.10a and a 5.12 so I never go beyond my means. But I see alot of younger kids who are more worried about the grading than anything else. Well I hope this helps.
Marty
Mike Gordon for President.
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