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Hangboard training
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xtremeclimbing


May 15, 2002, 6:56 PM
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Registered: Apr 27, 2001
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Hangboard training
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I was wondering if anyone had a good session for training on hangboards.


miagi


May 17, 2002, 2:42 AM
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I've always used the rock rings by metolius. Because of the rings ability to move freely in the air, you can do a variety of exercises from one handed crimps to iron crosses. Im not sure, but I think metolius has a exercise workout on their site.


miagi


May 17, 2002, 2:43 AM
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Here you go http://www.metoliusclimbing.com/howto.htm


greyghost


May 17, 2002, 5:03 AM
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the metolius board comes with a work out. rock and ice had one in a issue awhile back that i liked as well.


psych


May 17, 2002, 5:40 AM
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  I've got a basic hangboard from Franklyn, does the job nicely and was only $49 Canadian (MEC all the way!). Here's our usual workout:

1) Stretch stretch stretch!
2) Pull ups on slopers, 5-10
3) Leg raises, get's hands warm and awesome stomach workout 10 reps, 2-3 sets
4) One arm dead hangs, sloper, timed
5) One arm dead hangs, "middle sloper", it's not as slopey, has a groove, timed
6) Two arm dead hangs from side pinches, timed
7) Three finger pocket dead hangs, with diving belt (20lbs), timed
Two finger pocket dead hangs, timed
9) Shallow two finger pocket, dead hangs, timed
10) More pull ups...and more stretching

Works nicely, keep a record of your workouts and you can have times to beat. Great working out with a partner though, really pushes you. I've noticed my contact strength and finger grip growing pretty fast when I do this regularly.
Mike...


kerouac


May 28, 2002, 4:44 AM
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Registered: Nov 4, 2001
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check out
www.trainingforclimbing.com


jono13


May 29, 2002, 10:21 PM
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i usually go on the board for bout 45 mins at a time. first i do my warm up work out:
1) 10 second hang on slopers
2) 5 pull ups on jugs
3) 30 second dead hang on medium edges
4) 15 second bent arm hang on medium edges
5) 15 second l-hang from jugs
6) 3 offset pull ups, jug and 2 finger pocket (both sides)
7) 10 pull ups on 3 finger pockets
15 second dead hang on deep 2 finger pockets
9) 2 minute hang on large edges
10) 20 second dead hang on small edges
11) pull ups to failure on jugs

i do that, then a little break and onto my other schedule:
1) 6 pull ups on jugs
2) 45 second dead hang on medium edges
3) 30 second dead hang on slopers
4) 5 pull ups on large edges
5) 10 offset pull ups on jug and small edges (both sides)
6) 45 second dead hang on medium 2 finger pockets
7) 30 second dead hang on small edges
10 pull ups on 3 finger pockets
9) 20 second L hang from 2 finger pockets
10) pull ups to failure on jugs and 3 finger pocket.
5 minute break, than to both plans again.


justgoupfromthere


Jun 8, 2002, 10:59 PM
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Registered: May 20, 2002
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I think I'm going to go get a hangboard now!


jono13


Jun 9, 2002, 5:47 AM
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good call there big shooter! its improved my climbing level big time!


traide


Jun 9, 2002, 6:03 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2001
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If your budget is anything like mine, you're kind of limited on cash. I got a 3/4 inch thick by 2 feet wide by 2 feet long. I got some pieces of scrap wood of various sizes, sanded them down a little so the corners didn't kill my hands, and screwed them to the plywood. I bolted that to a wall in my garage, and it worked great as a hangboard, for almost nothing.


titan_90


Jun 12, 2002, 3:50 PM
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Registered: Jul 6, 2001
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Here is a link to the hangboard workouts that I use. It is from 8a.nu and has workouts from beginners to advanced.

http://www.8a.nu/eng/articles/hangboarding.shtml


boulder_maniac


Feb 11, 2007, 6:58 AM
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Registered: Nov 20, 2005
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Re: [titan_90] Hangboard training [In reply to]
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AWESOME HANGBOARD WORKOUT!!!!!

This looks craaaaaaazy dope. I'm starting it up first thing tomorrow morning


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