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ikefromla
Aug 5, 2004, 11:33 PM
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this may be splitting hairs, but he had been working "Flex Luthor" long before losing his left index finger and at that time felt that it was significantly more difficult than "Kryptonite." Tommy has climbed many of his hardest routes since his accident... he has adapted.
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james_climber
Aug 18, 2004, 6:39 AM
Post #27 of 38
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flex luther winssssssssss
and the projects are still just projects
about the fly yes it has hard moves but is too short and i dont like it , it should be boulder problem
why it isnt'?? is the underground dangerous if u fall ???
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nmoroder
Aug 18, 2004, 7:21 AM
Post #28 of 38
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The fly has something like a 40 foot fall if you miss the ledge the belay is on... or somthing like that...
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dynamicpanda
Aug 31, 2004, 1:13 AM
Post #29 of 38
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Registered: Jun 13, 2003
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After doing every sport route in the US, I have come to the conclusion that the hardest is Scimitar at Stone Mtn, NC.
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grayhghost
Sep 9, 2004, 2:33 PM
Post #31 of 38
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Registered: May 21, 2002
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Sure looks like a boulder
problem to me. The way
most people climbed it was
to clip the second draw,
making it a toprope through
the 5.14d crux and then
making it a lead through
the 5.6 slab-walk to the chains.
Props to Jason for opening up
a new level of bouldering, I
just wish the face had not been
scared by bolts in the first place.
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jakedatc
Sep 9, 2004, 2:54 PM
Post #32 of 38
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most people? it's only seen like 7 ascents and Jason kehl worked out the moves on TOP ROPE before he attempted to boulder it.. it's a nasty fall if you screw it up.. the boulders underneath are not level or very wide and do not go under the overhang so there is a gap to fall into also
Graham is a nasty boulderer in his own right and he felt it needed bolts to be done safely
have you BEEN to rumney? scaring the face with bolts haha there are probably 200 bolts at waimea alone.. like 2 on the fly are going to make a difference?
anyway if you wanna come work on it for a complete boulder send then i'll bring the pad and the SAM splints for ur broken ankle haha
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xanx
Sep 9, 2004, 3:39 PM
Post #33 of 38
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livin astroglide is 5.14c/d according to Joe Kinder, but Ben Hebb swears its easier than livin astro so i guess it depends on ur body type.
the fly and superfly are more like boulder problems IMO.
the Bill Clinton project at Rumney is probably impossible, as i literally could not find anything holdable on it for the first half or so, so i wouldn't count that.
Jaws however is probably the hardest in the US now that it's a project again. it used to be a 5.14b with a V10 crux dyno that only Dave Graham and Luke Parady have ever stuck. 2 holds now broke and that V10 dyno is now a V11 double dyno, and there is a lower crux that is V12. It sounds like this would make it harder than Realization, which is 5.14c into V11.
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jakedatc
Sep 9, 2004, 4:12 PM
Post #34 of 38
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where's the bill clinton project?
and ahh i was wondering why more people didnt get on jaws at only 14b.. being way hard now would explain it :)
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jakedatc
Sep 9, 2004, 4:21 PM
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thanks D.. i'll have to go look and laugh next time i'm up that way
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kpj24078
Sep 9, 2004, 11:18 PM
Post #36 of 38
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Registered: Sep 6, 2004
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Tommy Caldwells Flex Luther at the fortress of solitude 5.15.
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olderic
Sep 10, 2004, 7:20 PM
Post #37 of 38
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Registered: Oct 17, 2003
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In reply to: I believe the Bill Clinton project is immediately left of Jaws.
Yeah up the "gold steak". The current bolts are NFG. That may change soon - and as Forest Gump would say "that's all i am saying about that".
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smkyrobinson
Oct 11, 2004, 5:26 AM
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Registered: Jun 3, 2003
Posts: 22
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Bachelor party at Mt. potosi 14d Annihilator 14c , upper wall of Glass at the monastary at clark mountain least 14d, getto booty Charleston 14d, several un climbed projects at Potosi, could go way harder than anything at Rumney, and yes most unfinished routes there are natural. smky.
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