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dredsovrn
Sep 10, 2004, 10:43 AM
Post #26 of 36
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Registered: May 24, 2003
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Sounds like you are starting leading very soon, but that is your call. Focus on deep breathing. Especially when you feel like you are freaking out.
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honeyhiker
Sep 10, 2004, 12:00 PM
Post #27 of 36
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Registered: Apr 17, 2004
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Personally, I don't think you should be leading (I assume sport) so soon. From your post you haven't climbed sport or trad and are a beginner. You need to learn by following somebody else and being shown what to do. Its easy to get hurt and easy to do things incorrectly. I'd advise belaying a strong leader a few days with he/she showing you how to lead and then criticing your efforts. Climb safe.
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marcel
Sep 10, 2004, 1:58 PM
Post #28 of 36
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Registered: Jul 30, 2002
Posts: 523
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Buy a rosary. :lol:
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overlord
Sep 10, 2004, 2:18 PM
Post #29 of 36
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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1. get on TR outside a bit so you get comfy with the different sorrounding and the feeling of rock.
2. find a SPORT lead thats WAY below your TR level and lead it. then gradually work your way up towards your max on TR.
start leading sport as soon as you feel comfortable. but dont even think about leading trad until you have cleaned some pitches someone experienced led, learned something about anchors (about all there is in FOTH), practiced placing on safe ground (first on the ground, then on TR).
once youre done with that, you can think about leading some easy stuff.
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markc
Sep 10, 2004, 4:23 PM
Post #30 of 36
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Registered: Jan 21, 2003
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Here are a couple of thoughts, some of which have already been mentioned:
Pick a route that's well within your abilities.
It doesn't hurt to TR the route shortly before your attempt. That way you won't encounter any surprises in the climbing.
If you TR the route first, pause near each bolt. Find a good rest and reach for the bolt as if you're going to clip it. Are your remaining points of contact secure? Try to find the optimal stance and worry more about that than your height relative to the bolt. (If you've just TRed, it's something you might not have considered yet.)
Know how you're getting down before you start up. Make sure that your partner is aware of your plan, and communicate effectively when you reach the anchors. There have been accidents due to belayers assuming the climber will rappel, and climbers assuming they'll be lowered. Don't do that. If you rap, make sure you have your device before you start up.
Only lead if you feel you're ready. Don't let ego and peer pressure dictate your actions. (Not saying that's the case, but it could be for some.) Don't let ego keep you from accepting advice, either.
Leading sport routes isn't rocket science, but really knowing the fundamentals is important before starting out. An experienced partner goes a long way.
mark
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deleted
Deleted
Sep 10, 2004, 4:36 PM
Post #31 of 36
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you might want to reconsider leading
it's dangerous, you could hurt yourself, and above all, it's very very scary. you'll spend so much energy sweating...there's nothing proud about leading, just be a top roper. don't bolt stuff to make it safe, just top rope.
when i lead my first 5.4, i had already toproped 5.13, and i was absolutely terrified, almost fell, and was crimping the rock so hard that i almost broke it off, killed my belayer and put a permanent scar on my face, which would have made me less desirable than i already am to the opposite sex
if you want to lead, go ahead, buddy, but don't say that i didn't warn you.
i'm just kidding, go for it.
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architect
Sep 10, 2004, 4:41 PM
Post #32 of 36
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Registered: Oct 16, 2003
Posts: 84
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In reply to: 4) Don't forget to celebrate if you don't break your ankles. Or even if you break your ankles but live. See? Its all a matter of perspective. ...this will be sport leading, right? -Kate.
there is a song hidden in there somewhere... :roll:
Best advise given to me (aside fron the great stuff already posted) was to climb strong and breath. your climbing ability should be your first point of pro everything else backs that up.
-perhaps a good qoute here would be:
Good Judgement comes from Experience.
Experience comes from lack of good judgement.
Be careful out there and climb well.
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photon
Sep 10, 2004, 6:46 PM
Post #33 of 36
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Registered: Jan 31, 2002
Posts: 543
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1 word for you,
Depends
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justthemaid
Sep 11, 2004, 3:08 AM
Post #34 of 36
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Registered: Sep 11, 2004
Posts: 777
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You have been given some excellent advice especially from Tisar. I would re-read that post. I climbed for 3 years before trying a lead. I practiced the climb on TR a few times first. My belayer is very experienced and helpful. I wear a helmet when leading just to be on the safe side.
good luck and be careful.
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mmckinney
Sep 11, 2004, 3:12 AM
Post #35 of 36
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Registered: Jan 10, 2004
Posts: 113
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dont lead afternoon delight at sunset park in chattanoga... yellow jacket nest at the top of the classic 5.7.....
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hardrock_chik
Sep 21, 2004, 2:00 AM
Post #36 of 36
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Registered: Aug 10, 2004
Posts: 53
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You've gotta feel confident. Try the route TR first if you're really unsure.
Relax- i was really scared one time and fumble for ages then completely forgot so clip in until the end of the route and had to downclimb and reclip.
ALWAYS check a zillion times WHERE or WHAT you have clipped into. my friend clipped into the wrong thing (forgot what) called our "safe" half put her weight on the sling and the belayer was off belay until they realised and quickly (EXTREMELY) quickly got back on. She almost fell and died. A quick check can NEVER hurt.
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