|
dsafanda
May 15, 2002, 12:30 AM
Post #1 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
Need to purchase a new line and for the life of me I can't remember the model I had in mind. I had a Stratos. What's the other popular rope that can withstand and edge fall?
|
|
|
|
|
tim
May 15, 2002, 12:44 AM
Post #2 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
Roca Tasmania or the newer Mammut ($$$) SuperSafe (I think that is the name).
The Stratos is very stiff, I would look into the Mammut if I were you. Their ropes have always been wonderful IMHO and worth the slight premium.
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
May 15, 2002, 1:03 AM
Post #3 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
That's right. It was a Mammut. Thank you!
btw. Yes, the Stratos is like piano wire.
|
|
|
|
|
krustyklimber
May 15, 2002, 5:22 AM
Post #4 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
|
I have the Supersafe by Mammut and I obviously love it! But even I have conceded that the Mammut Galaxy is the way better choice as it is fatter than the Supersafe and if I'm not mistaken costs less than either of the others.
It has a soft hand like the SS and is also dry treated.
Jeff
|
|
|
|
|
tim
May 15, 2002, 5:48 AM
Post #5 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 4, 2002
Posts: 4861
|
I have a Galaxy 10mm and a pair of Stratos 9mm doubles (what was I thinking... oh yes, they were on sale). The Galaxy is not going to take the abuse a Flex or Flash will, and it sure as hell won't hold up to what a SuperSafe can (at its outer limits) withstand.
About the only thing (short of a cable) that can take a more savage beating than these edge-resistant ropes is an 11mm static.
|
|
|
|
|
krustyklimber
May 15, 2002, 6:50 AM
Post #6 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 25, 2002
Posts: 1650
|
Jabbeaux is right and I was mistaken it's the flash or flex that is fatter and the better choice. Look through the posts here in the aid forum and you should see where we have discussed these ropes before, and there you will see which Mammut you want.
Beal also make an edge proof rope if I'm not mistaken again!
Jeff
[ This Message was edited by: krustyklimber on 2002-05-14 23:51 ]
|
|
|
|
|
nailzz
May 15, 2002, 9:10 PM
Post #7 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 13, 2001
Posts: 244
|
Quote:
Beal also make an edge proof rope if I'm not
mistaken again!
Yes, Beal uses the Edge Test as a selling point to their ropes as well. From their catalog:
The UIAA have developed a complementary test to the normal one for testing the strength of a rope over a metal edge. The standard UIAA test involves a mass of 80kg, with a fall factor 1.77, held over a metal edge of 5mm radius to simulate a karabiner (sic ... they are French after all). The new test uses the same weight of 80kg (55kg for one strand of double rope), and the same fall factor, but this time over a sharp edge of just 0.75mm radius.
Beal ropes resistant to at least 1 fall over a metal edge of 0.75mm radius:
Single Ropes:
BOOSTER 9.7mm
FLYER 10.2mm
TOP GUN 10.5mm
APOLLO 11mm
Half Ropes:
COBRA 8.6mm
VERDON 9mm
Twin Ropes:
ICE TWIN 7.7mm (on two strands)
End quote from catalog.
Sorry for the verbal diarrhea, but I'm here at work with the Beal catalog and thought maybe it would help.
|
|
|
|
|
madbolter
May 17, 2002, 5:53 PM
Post #8 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 4, 2002
Posts: 17
|
The following is a little off topic as the original poster was looking for a second rope, but...
The manufacturers/sellers of these "supersafe" ropes won't like this but...
Stratos type ropes are overkill.
For your first wall rope, just get a cheap ass 10.5 or 11mm rope and beat the hell out of it. Starter walls like South Face of the Column, the Prow, Space Shot, Nose, Salathe, Zodiac don't need the same type of edge protection as say Wyoming Sheep Ranch.
Thousands of people have climbed up and fallen off of El Cap trade routes without the edge resistant ropes and lived. The fact is, a Stratos will get the chop just as fast as a standard cord jugging on it over an unpadded/blunted edge. And at over $225 a pop you'll cry more too!
Spend your first aid dollars buying Hybrid Aliens, Leeper Cam Hooks, and HB offsets. Save the Stratos-type ropes for when you get into harder stuff.
Don't let Gumby Fear burn a hole in your wallet.
|
|
|
|
|
dsafanda
May 20, 2002, 2:12 PM
Post #9 of 9
(2579 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 6, 2002
Posts: 1025
|
Thanks for the comprehensive info on Beal ropes! I've never owned one and after talking to a guy over at Shoreline Mtn Products who recommended a Beal that's what I'm going with. It's nothing against the other options so much as a wish to try something new.
I think your suggestions are right on Madbolter. On my first wall I did in fact trash a Stratos and felt like a jerk for having paid $200+. And yes...the Hybrid Aliens rule for Yosemite pin scars!
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-05-20 08:29 ]
[ This Message was edited by: dsafanda on 2002-05-20 11:03 ]
|
|
|
|
|
|
