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iclimblilrocks
Sep 19, 2004, 6:20 PM
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Im thinking about getting, 6-7 draws, 30' of 1" webbing, 4 over the sholder slings (2 24", 2 48") 2 locking bieners, another 22' cordalette, 2 more ovals...
all for top ropeing and easy sport climbing..... Im trying to go kinda cheap, so what do you think
I already Have 22' of 7mm cordalette, 3 10' sections of webbing( 2-1", and 1-9/16") 1 locker for varous jobs, 3 ovals and a light d biener, and a 10.2-10.5 60m rope...
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thewyseclimber
Sep 19, 2004, 7:06 PM
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If you're thinking of sport at all, I would get a few more draws. Maybe go with 10 or so, it would expand your route options quite a bit. As for webbing, depending on where you climb and what types of anchors you're looking at, I would get some longer sections, like maybe a 30 foot or 40 foot piece, and plus you can equalize a couple anchors off the same piece if you needed to. Can't hurt to have more webbing than you think you might need...you never know when you're going to have to sling that big old maple tree 20 feet back from the edge of the cliff. Top rope anchors can get interesting. Good luck.
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iclimblilrocks
Sep 19, 2004, 7:20 PM
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Most opf the sport routes up here in jtree that are in my leading range arent super tall, so they dont have too many bolts on them... Im getting draws because I cant really lead trad yet, and so That I dont Always have to completely rely on my partners to use their gear... and so I can get out and go lead some easy sport routes.. that and i cant offord 10 draws right now.. Its going to be for christmas that Im getting the stuff, and my mom is saveing for a 1500-2000$ dog, So i have to cut back on some stuff, (or i would be getting 10+ draws, a nut set, a couple cams, hex's, mabey a new rope, tri cams, and lots of bieners) That and my partner recommend that I get some draws, so that once I get my sister a bomber lead belay, and leading sport, that We can head out and lead some easy sport routes....
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kobaz
Sep 19, 2004, 7:42 PM
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You'll probably want more locking biners for wacked toprope setups where the gates might get pushed open. I'll agree with thewyseclimber about getting longer webbing strips.
Since your on a tight budget you can grab a 300 foot spool of webbing from mountain gear (for $75 I believe) and split the cost with some friends and chop up to your needs.
When i first started toproping I got:
300 feet of mil spec webbing with the following cuts
2x50 2x30 4x20 2x15 2x10 2x5
20 feet of 7mm perlon
Six nonlocking ovals (i used some ovals for nuts, but since you'r not getting pro you dont need lots of biners)
two locking D's
Its a nice thing to do to set up two non-locking ovals opposite and opposed for toproping. When using two biners the nonlockers sit nicer together than lockers.
Also... what do you mean by a 10.2 - 10.5 rope... do you have two ropes? If you have one rope its either 10.2 or 10.5.. (or some other measurement) unless you have some nasty core damage :P
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iclimblilrocks
Sep 19, 2004, 7:55 PM
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I got it off of a friend of mine, its in great condition, He just gets 3-5 ropes a year, so he gave me one that was still in good condition... He wasnt sure if it was 10.2 or 10.5....
i was looking for one of those roles of the webbing...
im mainly going to be setting topropes off of climbs with good bolts up top, so That why i was gonna get 2 more lockers, I use ovals for running the rope through, I find it runs much smoother.. thats what bob gaines and alan barlett told me (well they told my partner)
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kobaz
Sep 19, 2004, 8:07 PM
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In reply to: I got it off of a friend of mine, its in great condition, He just gets 3-5 ropes a year, so he gave me one that was still in good condition... He wasnt sure if it was 10.2 or 10.5....
Ah, just make sure the entire rope's core feels good and solid.
The website for mountain gear is mgear.com (if you havent found it already). Theres some other companies that sell spools but I believe mgear is the cheapest.
And yeap ovals will definatly give a nice ride to your rope.
When tr'ing off of bolts you might need to use a sling or some webbing to lessen the angles of force on your biners.
It sounds like you have a pretty good gear list for what you want to do. Have some fun and safe climbing.
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iclimblilrocks
Sep 19, 2004, 8:20 PM
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my partner has checked it (he's been climbing for 30 years) and the guy that gave it to me has been climbing the same, the guy who gave it to me is quite well known around here, as well as my partner. both have checked it and said it is still in great condition...
I useually try to equalize with a cordalette, and if the bolts are fairly far apairt I use my cordalette and webbing, and girthhitch them together so that the angel is much lower so not as much weight is between them... and then I try to add a double overhand for odvious reasons...
thanks for all of the help.
Im not going to be able to afford the spool for a while... So I and just gonna try to get that list for christmas (i Would try to get that set on mgear.com with the rope and draws for 300$ if I had 300$)
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irockclimbtoo
Sep 22, 2004, 2:35 AM
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ab
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johnathon78
Sep 22, 2004, 2:41 AM
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I'd personally throw some more locking biners in there. You never know when u could break or lose one..then your out the whole day. I currently use 5 at a time. 4 at the hooks ( with the assistance of 1" webbing ) and 1 for my atc. I always carry at least one spare too.
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squish
Sep 22, 2004, 2:47 AM
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Why so much webbing!?
Is there something we should know about the area you want to climb in? I rarely, if ever, need that much webbing and junk for a TR anchor.
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holdplease2
Sep 22, 2004, 4:40 AM
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Hey Squish:
My guess is, since the climbing is happening in Josh and our friend lacks a cam rack, he is using the nylon to sling large features like boulders on top of the formations or to use placements that might be spread out from the top of the climb.
Additionally, the top of many climbs at Josh slab out...if you ran your rope all the way to the top of the anchor constructed of boulders, it would get pretty chewed. Having long pieces of nylon allows the anchor to be extended over the slabby stuff so that the rope runs nice and clean.
Not that many climbs at josh have bolt anchors at the top...trad gear or big features are the anchor points.
Could be wrong, though.
Iclimblilrocks - If you buy a spool of webbing, watch for taped splices...
-Kate.
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gnat
Sep 22, 2004, 5:47 AM
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blow off the spool of webbing; bunk advice.
get todd, karen or someone else to give you about 30-40 feet of a good section (middle) of an old climbing rope they are retiring. this is the best extendo stuff in the world. won't cost you a dime and is far stronger, less likely to cut and easier to deal with (just carry in a small mini coil) than a wad of webbing.
when the finances allow, try getting a couple of medium sized cams (1.5 to 2 inches). at josh, these will work for most spots as tr anchors.
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kobaz
Sep 22, 2004, 6:05 AM
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In reply to: blow off the spool of webbing; bunk advice.
To each his own. I bought a spool of 300' because when you want to set up three or four climbs for a small crew of people you need alot of webbing. I was just stating what I used for toprope. Don't blatently regard advice as "bunk" just because it doesn't meet your own needs.
In terms of a "wad of webbing"... If you daisey chain all your pieces they are quite nicely manageable.
I think its good to get passive pro first, (depending on the area) they are usually more versitile than cams (and wont cost you an arm, a leg, and a goat)
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squish
Sep 22, 2004, 6:46 AM
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In reply to: get todd, karen or someone else to give you about 30-40 feet of a good section (middle) of an old climbing rope they are retiring. this is the best extendo stuff in the world.
I would second that advice. For those lengths, a rope is much easier to deal with than a mess of webbing. With rope, knots are easier to untie, it's much faster to coil it than to knit webbing, and generally better all around.
Static rope would be ideal, but an old climbing rope will do, too.
Just get as long a chunk as you think necessary for connecting two anchor points down into a V. Longer is always better, except that it's more to carry. Equalize and tie off as necessary.
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squish
Sep 22, 2004, 6:55 AM
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In reply to: And yeap ovals will definatly give a nice ride to your rope.
Has anyone really noticed any difference using true "ovals" versus other "D-type" biners for TR? The only thing I can say is that D's don't line up as nicely as ovals when reversed and opposed, but does this actually add very much, if any, friction at all?
Personally, I'm plenty comfortable with one single locking biner. Just be sure to lock it.
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kobaz
Sep 22, 2004, 7:13 AM
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Personally I've never noticed any difference, but just going from the design standpoint it would seem ovals would make for smoother rope action.
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mensrae
Sep 22, 2004, 10:32 AM
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its 530 and my eyes might be playing tricks.... but i dont think you mentioned an atc. youll want one of those.
you dont need very much for starting out in sport or top rope. after a few times out youll find out what you want to buy more of.
webbing..... better to have too much than try to set up some top rope and run out of the stuff.
my .02
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gnat
Sep 22, 2004, 3:42 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: blow off the spool of webbing; bunk advice. To each his own. I bought a spool of 300' because when you want to set up three or four climbs for a small crew of people you need alot of webbing. I was just stating what I used for toprope. Don't blatently regard advice as "bunk" just because it doesn't meet your own needs.
it is more a matter of what meets jacob's needs (he isn't setting up tr's for a "small crew" of fellow bumblies). and it is bunk advice, plain and simple.
a long section of rope will be far superior to webbing (read other comments). it will also have the advantage of being free (which when you are 14 and just starting out is a big consideration).
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mulligan
Sep 22, 2004, 4:05 PM
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I second getting a rope over webbing. I have 70' of static and can top rope almost anything with it.
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gottarock
Sep 22, 2004, 4:28 PM
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hey Squish,
re: ovals vs. D's or offsets for your master point....
Ovals are the best way to go... D's and offsets pinch the rope and create friction. You will feel it drag only slightly in a belay situation but, ever notice your rope kinking and looping up? Been using a couple of draws to clip a sport anchor? Or a couple o D's for a trad anchor?
That will create enough tension to stretch the ropes sheath in a different direction from the core... then your rope starts kinking up. Build an anchor with 2 ovals, then 2 D's and then 2 offsets.... weight the rope each time... observe how and where the rope sits... you decide.
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kobaz
Sep 22, 2004, 5:53 PM
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In reply to: webbing..... better to have too much than try to set up some top rope and run out of the stuff.
Those were my thoughts exactly. Even when setting up tr's for just me and my brother I bring it all. When going out to a new area you never know what sizes will come in handy.
In reply to: it is more a matter of what meets jacob's needs (he isn't setting up tr's for a "small crew" of fellow bumblies). and it is bunk advice, plain and simple.
I wasn't saying that he was setting up a climb for a small crew, a large crew, or to solo. Nor did iclimblilrocks specify.
Webbing will always come in handy and its nice to have a bit extra for backup. I like to use strips of webbing instead of a long section rope for tr because I like redundancy in the setup. The only reason I mentioned the spool was if he wanted to split the cost (since it will be cheaper per foot with a spool). Otherwise he can just get some small lengths and he'll be fine.
In reply to: a long section of rope will be far superior to webbing (read other comments). it will also have the advantage of being free (which when you are 14 and just starting out is a big consideration).
Again, to each his own. Some people here will recommend rope, others will recommend webbing or cord. In most cases there will be at least two or three different ways of accomplishing the same task that are equally as good. Saying "X is far superior to Y in scenerio Z" is asking for a flame war.
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squish
Sep 22, 2004, 7:42 PM
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In reply to: When going out to a new area you never know what sizes will come in handy.
That's actually another reason why one long chunk of rope will be more versatile than several shorter pieces of webbing.
In reply to: I like to use strips of webbing instead of a long section rope for tr because I like redundancy in the setup.
One length of rope tied to two anchor points, with a knot at the power point, is just as redundant as two separate strips of webbing. Just because it's all one piece doesn't mean it can't be made redundant.
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kobaz
Sep 22, 2004, 10:12 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: When going out to a new area you never know what sizes will come in handy. That's actually another reason why one long chunk of rope will be more versatile than several shorter pieces of webbing. In reply to: I like to use strips of webbing instead of a long section rope for tr because I like redundancy in the setup. One length of rope tied to two anchor points, with a knot at the power point, is just as redundant as two separate strips of webbing. Just because it's all one piece doesn't mean it can't be made redundant.
Yeah, very true. My main point for my own reasons of using webbing was setting up multiple tr's and not lugging around extra rope. I've mostly used the webbing method so I'm biased.
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