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dustinap
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May 18, 2002, 5:41 PM
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I'm haven't climbed at nearly enough places to cast a vote, but regaring "If you can climb 5.10 in Yosemite I do believe that you can climb 5.10 any place" I have to say the Gunks 5.10's would be harder.
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crackaddict
May 19, 2002, 3:56 PM
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Definatley Yosemite is the biggest trad destination. Since it is the birth place of American rock climbing and trad climbing.
There are alot of areas like the Gunks, The Diamond that are pure trad. But what about North Carolina. Looking Glass, White sides, etc. would make even the most acomplished trad climbers quake.
Another that no one mentioned is Zion! Way Trad. Indian creek! Nothing but cracks there!
As far as a city that is pretty trad is Flagstaff AZ. Surouned by trad areas with strict ethics. Like Paridise Forks, Oak Creek Overlook, Sedona, Winslow Wall, East Pocket, Sycamore Point, West Elden, and Secret Canyon. All trad and within 40 minutes from town. There are few sport areas but the two don't usually co-exist with eachother.
[ This Message was edited by: crackaddict on 2002-05-19 14:11 ]
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climb512
May 19, 2002, 4:05 PM
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gunks
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iclimbtoo
May 19, 2002, 5:16 PM
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From experience I'll say Eldo. From what I hear and dream, it's Yosemite hands down.
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tanderson
May 19, 2002, 7:17 PM
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Polarwind...
COLORADO (most places), YOSEMITE, GUNKS and Cathedral Ledge are where the trad ethic is still enforced, SMITH rock is sport, as is the NEW RIVER GORGE, etc. TRAD RULES!!!
I'd have to argue that The New River isn't just a "sport" area. With several thousand routes, there is quite a bit of great trad climbing. The beauty of the trad there is that you hardly ever find anyone on it. You pretty much have your pick as to the trad line that you want without any wait. That can't be said for Cathedral, Gunks, etc... Most moderate climbs usually have a party or two waiting to get on 'em. I'm not saying that the New isn't a trad mecca, but it is a great place to trad climb. Yosemite is the Trad Mecca!
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tim
May 19, 2002, 9:57 PM
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If anyone out there believes "if you can climb 5.10 in Yosemite, you can climb it anywhere", I invite you for a tour of 5.10's at Seneca, Millbrook, and Poke-o-Moonshine. You can lead. I'll belay/catch. Let's throw in a few meat-grinder wide fists in JTree, at Suicide, or in the Needles for good measure.
If you also can climb any 5.11, 5.12, or 5.13 in Yosemite, that is another story altogether, although I'd love to watch someone like that climb the trade routes...
Yosemite grades are *accurate* rather than sandbaggy. You may well die if you take grades at face (Yosemite-equivalent) value in some other areas. I don't think this is a Good Thing, but it most certainly is The Way It Is, in my experience (and others').
I'm not disparaging places like Eldo when I deny them the status of Mecca -- the bold, hard trad ethic is alive and well in CO (and CA, and NH, and elsewhere, eg. Great Britain), but as others have mentioned "there is no one place in CO that compares with the stature of Yosemite" (paraphrased slightly). Personally I think RMNP comes pretty damn close, but that summary (from CO advocates, no less!) is pivotal in defining why Yosemite is as close to a trad Mecca as you'll see.
Those of you who are talking about "only aid" and "bolted cracks" are out of your fucking minds. Either you're trolling or you've never been to Yosemite. I submit to you Central Pillar of Frenzy, Meat Grinder, and Separate Reality -- I defy you to find a bolt between the belay anchors of any of these.
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-19 15:00 ]
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stevematthys
May 22, 2002, 9:25 PM
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hell yes, colorado kicks ass, i would know......I LIVE HERE!!!HAHAHAHA!!!
no, i think that trad mecca would have to go to rmnp, eldo, or yosemite.
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uncle_big_green
May 23, 2002, 7:51 PM
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Eldo has a decent trad ethic for the most part. However, there is no way in heck that Boulder is a trad mecca. Boulderites like to think that Boulder is the center of the climbing universe (not too much offense to you boulderites). The thing that negates this claim is one place - Boulder Canyon (can you say Sport Park?). Additionally, the S. Platte is at least as trad as Eldo., though it too has a few blemishes.
I have climbed in many, but not all, places in the US and I would have to say that North Carolina is the Trad Mecca. Why? Probably nothing in that state is rap-bolted and the routes are bold. As a geographic entity, it is the last bastion of traditional climbing in the US. From overhanging quartzite walls in the Linville Gorge area to the steep run-out water grooves of Cashiers Valley it is TRAD all the way.
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phlyfisher
May 23, 2002, 8:21 PM
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City of Rocks or Indian Creek. Both have great splitters and the scenery is fantastic.
Climb on climber
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tylerphillips
May 23, 2002, 10:02 PM
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I would have to say Cedar city Utah
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addiroids
May 25, 2002, 5:35 AM
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Of course I have to place my vote:
Yosemite
First off, it's Yosemite. Do I have to say any more. Secondly, what the hell is Cedar City?? Never heard of it and as a devout Climslim (Climber + Muslim) I make my month long pilgrimage to the holy land once or more times a year. Cedar City my ass (no offense to the locals who like the place, but that's like calling Big Rock the epicenter of American Sport Climbing).
TRADitionally yours,
Cali Dirtbag
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joemor
May 28, 2002, 7:06 AM
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before any of you decide you have to come to australia.... mt arapalies, the grampians, blue mountains ect etc
the whole country is a trad mecca!
joe
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crackaddict
May 29, 2002, 12:11 AM
Post #38 of 61
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Just got back from the land of the Jams!
YES!
INDIAN CREEK!!!!
Oh so trad!
In 3 weeks I will be in
YOSEMITE!!!!!
WOOOOOO!!!! HHHHOOOOOOOO!!!!
TRAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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joemor
May 29, 2002, 12:36 AM
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lol
oh so trad
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crackaddict
May 29, 2002, 12:45 AM
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I know Joe,
I have'nt been to Austraila yet!
But I cannot beat what I have here.
It is such good stuff!!!
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maculated
May 29, 2002, 1:03 AM
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Crack Addict, me too. If you head out to Tuolumne, I need climbing partners. . . hint hint
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kullaberg
May 29, 2002, 3:59 AM
Post #42 of 61
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inner sanctum of trad dom ?
the black canyon of the gunnison.
without question.
go there and you'll know.
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phil_nev
May 30, 2002, 6:49 AM
Post #43 of 61
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Sorry to inform you joe but the blue mountains is almost ALL sport routes, there are very few trad areas...
But Arapiles is deffinitly up there with the best in the world...
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joemor
Jun 3, 2002, 2:48 AM
Post #44 of 61
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true phil blue mountain have alot of sport routes but they aslo have some excelent trad areas.... ecco point, hanging rock, ikara, and of course piddington.
joe
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rocknpowda
Jun 7, 2002, 5:52 PM
Post #45 of 61
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I'll have to go with tylerphillips-
THE PLACE TO BE FOR TRAD IS MOST DEFINITELY
CEDAR CITY, UTAH
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bouldertoad
Jun 13, 2002, 6:01 AM
Post #46 of 61
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The best trad climbing place hands down is wherever you are racking up your gear for the day. I mean who can say that they did not have any fun the last time they went out climbing? A bad day of climbing is bettter than the best day at work...
That being said I like seneca and the gunks deleware water gap t-wall........the list goes on and on
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camsticker
Jun 13, 2002, 10:37 PM
Post #47 of 61
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How about Europe!! Alps, Carpatheons, etc. Where Trad began
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camsticker
Jun 13, 2002, 10:39 PM
Post #48 of 61
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But if we are talking about NA, then I would have to say Yosemite!
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bearshaman
Jun 15, 2002, 9:36 PM
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Holy Places (in no particular order)
Mecca
Jerusalem
St. Peters
Yosemite
Moms Kitchen at dinner time
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woodse
Jun 16, 2002, 12:25 AM
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I'm surprised by the relatively few votes for Indian Creek, Yosemite....definitely a mecca, Eldorado....no way. People don't travel from all over the world just to climb at eldo but they do come to bag the perfect cracks at Indian creek and the limitless rock rising out of the Yosemite valley. Seems to me some people should check their defintion of "mecca."
woodsE
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