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chucky
Sep 21, 2004, 10:55 PM
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which size bd stoppers, should one double up on? Are there favs that u dont want to put caught with out; multiple piesces of?
Or is it best to save that money and double up and triple up on cams, and go with just one set of stoppers?
thanks
chuck
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jumpingrock
Sep 21, 2004, 11:00 PM
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I wouldn't double up on BD stoppers. Buy another slightly differant set. You will find that you will have that many more options because of the differances between each set. Personally I will be buying WC curved nuts not that I am suggesting them but they are differant enough from the BD to fit in places that BD won't or won't well.
I wouldn't double up on cams yet. The fact is that nuts are easy to place (with practice) and can be more bomber than cams. I would double up on the nuts.
As a disclaimer I guess it really depends on where you climb. If the place you climb most has no nut placements than you better get cams, if on the other hand the place you climb takes bomber nuts well the choice is obvious. Ask a local.
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 21, 2004, 11:02 PM
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It depends on how often you place nuts, where you climb.
I double up on #4,5,6,7,8.
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ricardol
Sep 21, 2004, 11:05 PM
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the real answer is "it depends" ..
but i only carry a single set of nuts ..
-- ricardo
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caughtinside
Sep 21, 2004, 11:11 PM
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In reply to: the real answer is "it depends" .. but i only carry a single set of nuts .. -- ricardo
Yep. Although I've been climbing in the valley lately and could use some Offsets!
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davidji
Sep 21, 2004, 11:13 PM
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In reply to: I wouldn't double up on BD stoppers. Buy another slightly differant set.
I guess how many nuts you need depends on where/what you're climbing. One and a half sets seems to be standard for me. More for some things, less for others. Micros in some places, not in others.
If you're combining gear with your partner, you may not need to double anything.
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texplorer
Sep 21, 2004, 11:34 PM
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I agree with the offsets. Get a few of the HB offset nuts, especiall if you live in a pin-scarred area or have any big wall aspirations.
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ricardol
Sep 21, 2004, 11:42 PM
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In reply to: I agree with the offsets. Get a few of the HB offset nuts, especiall if you live in a pin-scarred area or have any big wall aspirations.
I agree -- (for big wall) ..
.. i carry 4 sets of nuts on big walls .. 2 HB offset micros, and 2 regular sets of BD..
i dont think the caller is wondering what to carry on a big wall though (seeing as hwo this thread is int he trad forum)
-- ricardo
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holdplease2
Sep 22, 2004, 12:13 AM
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Ricardo - thats a lot of nuts...think you might be, um, compensating? ;)
To initial post: If you double up, go every other size. Nuts can be placed in two orientations, giving each a range that we are not used to thinking about. Turn a 7 sidewas, it kind of works like an 8. Turn an 8 sideways, it kind of works like a 9.
If I was going to double up on every other size for usual trad climbing, I would start with the #6 HB offset (brass, unique for a small placement, rock bites it nicely), then get 7, 9, and 10. These HB offset nuts are the greatest change in shape from the ones you already have, so will provide the most variety.
Doubling up on BD with WC, hell, you may as well just get some BD, they are so similar.
-Kate.
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ricardol
Sep 22, 2004, 12:50 AM
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In reply to: Ricardo - thats a lot of nuts...think you might be, um, compensating? ;)
if there is one thing i could use more of on a wall .. its just plain nuts .. cojones .. big hairy ones! ..
.. you know that sinking feeling .. when you know that your cojones have left the bulding and you're left on your own..
-- ricardo
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holdplease2
Sep 22, 2004, 12:59 AM
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Shore do, Ricardo...just after my surgery back in '93. :lol:
-Kate.
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david.yount
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Sep 24, 2004, 8:40 AM
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Black Diamond Stoppers I would recommend doubling on, #6, #7 and #8.
Size #5 and smaller aren't rated full strength, meaning 10kN or better. For nuts smaller than BD #6 I would recommend alternatives; I don't carry BD Stoppers smaller than #6.
Trango Brassies provide 2 sizes (maybe it's 3 sizes) smaller than BD #6 that still use wire rated to 10kN.
HB Bronze Offset #6 is full strength, though not appreciably smaller than BD #6.
HB Offsets #5 and #4 are much smaller than BD #6 and are still rated (I think?) 8kN. Though not the full 10kN of all larger nuts, 8kN is a big improvement on the 6kN of most all micro nuts.
In case you didn't know, "offset" gear means that it's designed for a flaring crack. The HB Bronze Offset nuts are brilliant, where they work nothing else works nearly as well. Amazing utility.
david yount.
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gunkiemike
Sep 24, 2004, 11:13 PM
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Check out Metolius Curve nuts - they are very different from BD stoppers: transverse rather than lateral curve, and a straight taper. They do things that no other nut will do, often locking in place behind tiny bumps. They would be my choice for a second set FOR AN EXPERIENCED CLIMBER. Newbies tend to get them stuck. Under no circumstances would I recommend getting a second set of the same thing you have. Go for variety.
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