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johnson6102002


Sep 22, 2004, 12:30 PM
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best trad binners?
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hey im building my rack now but still am undecided on what biners i am going to buy i am thing about getting about 25 to 30 and am looking for what you think are you rfavorites/ best and why you like them so much.

I am looking more towards wiregates but mmight still get some regular bent gate biners instead
please tell me what you think and where you found the best price on them


Partner justin


Sep 22, 2004, 12:47 PM
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I'm across the Pond and my info might be regional, but I'm partial to BD's Hotwires. I could do with out the notched nose but as that comes at a price, I rate these little 'uns. Shop around though, there's no need to have matching gear, if you're not getting a deal on bulk- buy a few different kinds and see if you like them. It's always cool to have a play with a buddy's gear- personal taste is often just that. hth d_s.


Partner taino


Sep 22, 2004, 1:06 PM
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I'm partial to BD Positrons - the old-style Positrons with the flat gate. I like them due to the fact that they're keylock - no nose notch. I use them for all my racking needs, from gear to quickdraws. They're as light as the Petzl Spirits, and fit my hand better. I don't like the new Positrons so much, with the rounded gate; the Dynotrons are nice, but they're a little larger.

I use wiregates (BD Hotwires) for the rope end of all my quickdraws.

I bought the majority of my biners as cosmetic seconds from Gear Express.com.

T


geezergecko


Sep 22, 2004, 1:07 PM
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The October issue of Rock & Ice has a review of wiregates. The BD Hotwire came out on top. Personally, I prefer keylock biners (eg. Petzl Spirit) for racking. No notch to snag on the gear loops. I use the BD Hotwires on the rope end. The new WC Heliums look like the greatest but the recent recall has tarnished their reputation.


Partner tgreene


Sep 22, 2004, 1:14 PM
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Trango Classic Wiregates for me!


petro


Sep 22, 2004, 1:25 PM
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If you are looking light weight, for slings. Wire gates baby!

D-ovals (Omega) the red ones
BD Nutrinos

I like to find something with some sort of toothless top for racking stoppers and hexes. You'll appreciate the toothless when going for a desperate peice. BD makes one that is a solid gate, and not too much $$, but I don't remember the name.

Good luck!


Partner taino


Sep 22, 2004, 1:27 PM
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In reply to:
I like to find something with some sort of toothless top for racking stoppers and hexes. You'll appreciate the toothless when going for a desperate peice. BD makes one that is a solid gate, and not too much $$, but I don't remember the name.

Good luck!

BD Positrons (round gate)
BD Dynotrons (flat gate - more comfortable)

T


architect


Sep 22, 2004, 1:52 PM
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I rack all cams on my DMM prowires. they have excelent action, the little bend at the end of the wire makes cliping the rope excelent, they rack very well and they are color coded to my Camalots and Aliens. Unfortunatly I get heckled for the rainbow array when I climb 8^) but I deal!. For my runners I use BD hotwires. R&I said it best when they said HW's are work horses. I keep one attached to my mammut 8mm dyneema runners via the Petzl "string" (those little rubbers on the Spirt draws) and then a free scond one.

sidenote: I just picked up one of the OP Five-0 wiregates. Its Hugh and light but doesn't rack so well. I am looking foward to using it for ICE this winter though and may replace some or all of my rope side sling binners with them (at least for winter.)


chucky


Sep 22, 2004, 6:32 PM
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Go to gearexpress....and get the TRANGO CLASSIC WIREGATES....cant be beat!!! 4.50 or 4.75 a piece....very lite, and well i could go on and on...but you get the idea 4.75!


mattm


Sep 22, 2004, 8:43 PM
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I rack all cams on my DMM prowires. they have excelent action, the little bend at the end of the wire makes cliping the rope excelent, they rack very well and they are color coded to my Camalots and Aliens. Unfortunatly I get heckled for the rainbow array when I climb 8^) but I deal!. For my runners I use BD hotwires. R&I said it best when they said HW's are work horses. I keep one attached to my mammut 8mm dyneema runners via the Petzl "string" (those little rubbers on the Spirt draws) and then a free scond one.

I have something like this. All my cams are color coded on DDM prowires. They're great biners and the color coding makes them that much better. Heckling means they're jealous. Tripled up slings are 10mm WC with a flat gate Positron (WHY OH WHY DID BD change this?!?) and a BD hotwire. Cush setup - can't get much better. Draws are BD Neutrinos. Just added a few DMM revolvers with Neutrinos on top and I like them so far. Did some slabs where the pulleys were helpful. For my straight 2' over the should slings - Neutrinos , one on each sling. Nut racking biners - King OVAL keylock. I also carry about 4 utility biners for anchors etc. Those are the Dovals by OP. Great for that stuff but not a big fan of them for things like rope clipping side. I could see the dovals being good for aid climbing though. I do have a Petzl spirit draw (longer one) that I use as a kind of Fifi hook when aiding - but now I'm getting really specific.

DMM Prowires Rock - they're real similar to the Hotwires but come in colors.

BD positrons (Flat Gate) Also great - Hopefully BD smells the coffee and brings these back.


johnson6102002


Sep 22, 2004, 9:53 PM
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i looked into som eof the binners that people had been suggesting and i saw this on one of the sites. rope bear dia mm must seemed to be in the 9.5 range. however i haev a 10.6 rope no wis that number teh max the binner will take efficiently or wht exactly does that number mean and does anyone have a larger rope but styilll uses the hot wire, live wire or prowire without problems?


ricardol


Sep 22, 2004, 10:00 PM
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trad biners:

.. umm ..

for racking i like those red Omega Pacific biners.. they are light, and i like the color..

for draws ... i just bought some BD biners ..they work fine .. dont get biners that are too small, you'll regret it ..

-- ricardo


johnson6102002


Sep 22, 2004, 10:04 PM
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alot of people keep refering to the term "racking" and say that they use different binners for that i am new to trad so can some one tell me what you mean by racking?


ricardol


Sep 22, 2004, 10:14 PM
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Racking biners are the biners you use to attach the gear to your gear loops (on your harness) or to your gear sling.

Usually you use one biner per cam .. and one or more biners for a set of nuts, etc.

there are lots of debates on how to rack your gear, and that is another conversation topic.--

.. so to answer your question, a racking biner is a carabiner that is used to attach a piece to gear to your harness or gear sling.

.. i like my racking biners to be different than my other biners .. (i'm just anal that way)

In reply to:
alot of people keep refering to the term "racking" and say that they use different binners for that i am new to trad so can some one tell me what you mean by racking?


johnson6102002


Sep 22, 2004, 10:34 PM
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so do you use the binner that u rack your gear with to feed the rope through after you have placed teh peice ort not?
sry if these questions are sounding stupid but i dont want to purchse a large quantity of biners i wont use
In reply to:
Racking biners are the biners you use to attach the gear to your gear loops (on your harness) or to your gear sling.

Usually you use one biner per cam .. and one or more biners for a set of nuts, etc.

there are lots of debates on how to rack your gear, and that is another conversation topic.--

.. so to answer your question, a racking biner is a carabiner that is used to attach a piece to gear to your harness or gear sling.

.. i like my racking biners to be different than my other biners .. (i'm just anal that way)

In reply to:
alot of people keep refering to the term "racking" and say that they use different binners for that i am new to trad so can some one tell me what you mean by racking?


stoverstan


Sep 22, 2004, 10:46 PM
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Traditional oval ones since they tend not to open as easy as the newer "easy to clip" ones if your achor where to twist around into the back clip position.


petsfed


Sep 22, 2004, 10:47 PM
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Pity BD discontinued the Quickwires. Best wire gate carabiner ever.

I use what's light and cheap. Thus, Trango Classic Wiregates (and the aforementioned Quickwires) are quite prevalent. If I could find enough of the old-school livewires, I'd use those too. "The fin" as it was called is an amazing carabiner.


mattm


Sep 22, 2004, 11:00 PM
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In reply to:
alot of people keep refering to the term "racking" and say that they use different binners for that i am new to trad so can some one tell me what you mean by racking?
Not sure if this is a language barrier thing or not but if not...

If you don't know what racking biners are you shouldn't be BUYING a rack. Go buy a book and LEARN about all this gear you're about to invest in. Personal Fave - John Long "How To Rock Climb: 4th ed."


cyanamid


Sep 22, 2004, 11:33 PM
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Add my vote to the Quickwire advocate. Love 'em. I recently picked up a bunch more when I realized they were getting harder to find. Now all of my trad draws are BD Quickwires on the pro end, Hotwires on the rope end and the sling is 24" of 12mm dyneema. Really pretty light and seems to work great for me. Also, the BD Wiregate Ovals are pretty nice for racking, if you decide to go fully different 'biners just to rack. (some like it, some don't)
- Andrew


johnson6102002


Sep 22, 2004, 11:34 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
alot of people keep refering to the term "racking" and say that they use different binners for that i am new to trad so can some one tell me what you mean by racking?
Not sure if this is a language barrier thing or not but if not...

If you don't know what racking biners are you shouldn't be BUYING a rack. Go buy a book and LEARN about all this gear you're about to invest in. Personal Fave - John Long "How To Rock Climb: 4th ed."

why buy a book when i have knowledgebale resources online that can help me with specific questions? a book has one point of view and that is it whe people post everyone has tehre own point of veiw on specific things otherwise there would be no reson for more than one answer to a post bc everyone would think exactly the same and as i said i am new to this type of climbing and looking for help and seeing how i have no partners to borrow their geer than i figured this would be a good place to go!
and i do now know the answer to this thanks to all the ppl that helped me out, i new the concept jsut not the terminology


ricardol


Sep 22, 2004, 11:35 PM
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lets take a cam for example ..

each one of my cams has its own racking biner ..

.. if i'm going to clip the rope directly to the cam without using a sling ..then yes.. i use the racking biner ..

.. though most of the time i add a sling to the cam .. the slings already have 2 biners on them .. so i clip the sling to the cam's sling or loop .. and there is an extra biner hanging on the cam .. (which will be used by the cleaner to clip the cam to his/her harness or gear sling) ..

-- ricardo

In reply to:
so do you use the binner that u rack your gear with to feed the rope through after you have placed teh peice ort not?
sry if these questions are sounding stupid but i dont want to purchse a large quantity of biners i wont use
In reply to:
Racking biners are the biners you use to attach the gear to your gear loops (on your harness) or to your gear sling.

Usually you use one biner per cam .. and one or more biners for a set of nuts, etc.

there are lots of debates on how to rack your gear, and that is another conversation topic.--

.. so to answer your question, a racking biner is a carabiner that is used to attach a piece to gear to your harness or gear sling.

.. i like my racking biners to be different than my other biners .. (i'm just anal that way)

In reply to:
alot of people keep refering to the term "racking" and say that they use different binners for that i am new to trad so can some one tell me what you mean by racking?


johnson6102002


Sep 22, 2004, 11:39 PM
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i looked into some of the binners that people had been suggesting and i saw this on one of the sites. rope bear dia mm must seemed to be in the 9.5 range. however i haev a 10.6 rope no wis that number teh max the binner will take efficiently or wht exactly does that number mean and does anyone have a larger rope but styilll uses the hot wire, live wire or prowire without problems?


gds


Sep 22, 2004, 11:48 PM
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In reply to:
why buy a book when i have knowledgebale resources online that can help me with specific questions?

Because you don't know enough to make judgements about whose advice is any good. There are a number of books that are generally accepted as good sources of info. How do you determine whose opinion on htis site is better than someone else's if you don't posses enough knowledge to permit critical thinking in this area?

I agree strongly with the comment that if you are not at the point of understanding the basic jargon- and it is not a language problem but rather a knowledge problem- you are not ready.
For this project all you can do is buy unwisely and spend some money poorly. But later on yuo can take advice that will get you killed.
While there is often great advice on this site there is also (often sadly) advice that is simply so wrong as to be outright dangerous.


Partner drector


Sep 22, 2004, 11:51 PM
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Petzl Spirit for nuts and things that can snag. on the gate. I got them all before BD started selling their keylock 'biners.

The rest of mine are mostly Wild Country Wild Wire carabiners with all my cams on red ones and other gear on grey. I like these a lot and got them a while back in a huge sale.

Other than the keylocks for nuts and things, I don't use special 'biners for racking vs. any other use. I only color code the cams because I have the right number of those color 'biners.

And go buy a book. The info on the web in diverse but doesn't provide the basics that make all these answers as clear as they could be. A good example of this is the answer to the question of "what is a racking 'biner?" which is... get this... "a 'biner used for racking!" A good trad climbing book would have allowed you to figure this out pretty easily.

Dave


benkiessel


Sep 22, 2004, 11:54 PM
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i'm a weight freak so i would say go with the trango superflies, if you would have asked me a year ago it would have been the neutrinos.

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