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reprieve
Mar 30, 2004, 12:13 AM
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...and they hurt like heck! I can wear them for about 20-30 min before the pain is too much! I haven't climbed in them yet b/c I want to be able to return/exchange them if they don't work out.
I've searched the forums and read the gear reviews, and there seems to be a difference of opinions. Some people think these shoes stretch, some don't.
What's the story? Are these shoes going to stretch? Did I get them too small? I know these are aggressive shoes, but I don't know want my feet to be killing me after wearing them for half an hour!
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insainio
Mar 30, 2004, 12:58 AM
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They will stretch a little bit. I got mine a little small (1/2 size) and now after wearing them around the house for a couple of nights and a trip to Moab, they fit great. Just give them a little time and they should workout for you. Although, if you got them more than 1/2 size to small, you will probebly want to take them back for a bigger size.
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mustclimb69
Mar 30, 2004, 1:07 AM
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there lined synthetic they will no tstretch only mold a BIT!!!
Take them back and size down on ly 1/2 size would be my reccomendation.
Rather be comfortable and be able to climb...
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climber49er
Mar 30, 2004, 1:08 AM
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Wow, If you can wear them 20 minutes, they are waaaay too big!
J/K - I could wear mine for about ten minutes at a time when they were new and now I can wear them a couple hours before they are intolerable.
They will form to your foot more than they will actually stretch and your foot somehow gets used to being all scrunched. Being that it's not me wearing them, I can't say if they are the right size but from my experience they sound about right.
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reprieve
Mar 30, 2004, 1:28 AM
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thanks a lot for the reccomendations guys
any more will be welcome
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reprieve
Mar 30, 2004, 4:53 AM
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In reply to: I could wear mine for about ten minutes at a time when they were new and now I can wear them a couple hours before they are intolerable.
I can wear them for about an hour now, but my feet hurt from the second I put them on. How long can you wear them for without feeling any pain?
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smithclimber
Mar 30, 2004, 5:52 AM
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Reprieve,
Anasazis, both lace-ups and velcro, run rather small compared to many other climbing shoes. This may require you to not downsize them. You may need to use your street shoe size or possibly even a half size up.
Food for thought:
I typically wear a 9.5 street shoe. With almost all of my climbing shoes, I downsize just like everyone else does. However, when it came to the Anasazis, I had to actually size up! I had to go with size 10 Anasazis (and I don't wear a 10 in anything, including street shoes) just because they run that small/tight. So, even though they are "size 10" they are still some of the tightest shoes I wear. If I had wanted them extremely tight I could have gone with 9.5s.
Best advice when it comes to climbing shoes: pay less attention to what the numbers are and more attention to how it feels on your foot.
To answer your question: yes they will stretch, but very little (compared to others) and it takes a very long time. You would do well to take the advice of those that said "they mold/conform to your feet more than really stretching". As someone pointed out, the Anasazis are made of "Cowdura" (just a synthetic material) that resists stretching much more than leather. In addition to the synthetic material, they are also lined which further helps reduce the stretching.
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climb_plastic
Mar 31, 2004, 7:44 AM
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I've had mine for 2 months and they still hurt from the second I put them on....after a few minutes I start to get used to it....and after another 15 minutes I figure out that my feet don't hurt because they're completely numb.
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overlord
Mar 31, 2004, 8:32 AM
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if you can wear them for 20mins theyre OK if youre not going to climb long multipitc routes with them.
most sport routes (boulders too, doooh) last far less than 20mins and you can take the shoes off once youre done.
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juanjo
Mar 31, 2004, 8:39 AM
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My anazasis are 1 size less than my normal street shoe I bought them because I cant let pass that price. At first they hurt like hell but after 3 or 4 good climbs you´re gonna love them. Trust me it is normal to hurt like that cause they are a precission shoe!
Good Luck and excelent buy!
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neuroshock
Mar 31, 2004, 8:47 AM
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In reply to: Reprieve, Anasazis, both lace-ups and velcro, run rather small compared to many other climbing shoes. This may require you to not downsize them. You may need to use your street shoe size or possibly even a half size up. Food for thought: [snip] Best advice when it comes to climbing shoes: pay less attention to what the numbers are and more attention to how it feels on your foot.
smithclimber, excellent comments!
reprieve, for the sake of "more data to support the theory" i wear:
size 43.5 street shoes (really between 43 & 43.5, but 43 seems a bit too small for comfort for everyday shoes)
size 43 anasazi lace-ups & velcros
size 42 moccasyms
size 41.5 cobras
for sizing, as with any shoe (not just the anasazi's), it's really up to how you want it to feel. IMHO, that whole "size it down until it hurts" stuff is complete BS. it isn't a necessary evil in order to climb well. i tend to size my shoes so that i can wear them for several hours continuously before any real discomfort starts and use them for bouldering, sport, & trad.
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dirtme
Mar 31, 2004, 4:25 PM
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I agree with smithclimber. I wear a 9.5 street shoe and get the velcros at 10.
Whenever someone asks a question about shoes, I always ask what they climb and how hard they do it. I generally find wearing looser shoes makes for a much more pleasant climbing experience. Anyway, how tight do shoes have to be to climb a 5.10 or 5.11? Not very. At that level I generally wear a pair of loose comfortable Mocs. At the harder grades, 11+ and above, I wear tighter shoes, the Velcros. Even then, I can wear those shoes for 3-4 hours before I need to peel them off of my feet.
They don't stretch that much by the way. That's why they're great shoes. They mold to your feet but don't expect them to get a 1/2 size larger.
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jcr
Mar 31, 2004, 4:38 PM
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I recomend to keep them, they WILL hurt like heck at first but you WILL get acustumed to them and when you do, TRUST ME, you WILL be climbing MUCH better...
good luck!!
JC
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compulsiveclimber
Jun 22, 2004, 5:24 PM
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Hey man, listen, most sport routes I know of don't last longer than a half an hour, so it sounds like your shoes will work out. They will mold to your foot some, but do like most people and take your shoes off between climbs. I bring a nice pair of La Sportiva flip flops, they are choice.
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climb_plastic
Jun 22, 2004, 5:43 PM
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If I could wear a new pair for 20-30 minutes then I'd get a half size smaller because they stretch about a half size. But I totally agree that it won't make a difference for climbs in the 5.10 to 5.11 range so you don't need to be in pain. As you progress you'll know when you need tighter shoes because you feel like you need a more solid feel and precision on small holds. When you come to that point you won't be complaining about the pain anymore...you'll just accept it...and when you try a new pair and feel pain you'll say, "Yeah, I think that's about the right size."
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mtengaio
Jun 22, 2004, 5:48 PM
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I'm a believer in the Anazasi line now that I've been using the Southwest Veclros for about 3 months – they rule! The rubber is far softer than my old favorites, the Stingers. I'm still trying to figure out what the white strip of rubber is at the toe. Resole indicator? Anyway, my anasazi's are US 10 and I wear US 10.5 street. My toes do get pretty sore by the end of the day so I'd have to agree about them not stretching all that much and them being sized a bit different from other shoes.
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tedc
Jun 22, 2004, 8:38 PM
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My shoes always feel better if I actually bend the toe of the shoe over (down) while I put my foot in. It allows my toes to curl a bit easier. Usually any shoe I put on (after the break in period) either feels good going on and stays that way or hurts like hell and stays that way.
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flyinmonkie
Sep 24, 2004, 5:15 AM
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I got a pair about 9 months ago. For the first couple of times climbing I though I was going to have to take them off before I came back down. I love them now. I am not so sure they stretch as much as they break in to match your feet. I still take them off between climbs, which you should do anyway. But, I can wear them for a couple of hours at the gym. I love them but they seem to wear pretty fast.
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flyinmonkie
Sep 24, 2004, 5:25 AM
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In reply to: I'm still trying to figure out what the white strip of rubber is at the toe.
As far as I am aware (and I could be wrong) the white part adds stiffness for edging.
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overlord
Sep 24, 2004, 8:28 AM
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if you can wear them for 20mins theyre large enough. how long doest it take to climb a sport route or a bolder anyway??? and you should get them off when youre on the groind (no use walking around in them).
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yomomma
Sep 24, 2004, 11:27 AM
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It all depends on how much pain you're comfortable with. I tried mine a full size down at first. Are you kidding me? Way too painful, even for just a few minutes. Sent them back and went with 1/2 a size down from my street shoes. Still a bit painful on the knuckle of the big toe but not so much that they distracted me from focusing on the climb. Now I can wear them for an hour with no problem.
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edge
Sep 24, 2004, 12:33 PM
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I have several pair of climbing shoes that hurt when I am standing on level ground. However, they are designed for climbing and I think you will find that once you step on the wall and your foot muscles start tightening for climbing type moves, the pain will disappear. The shoes will actually compliment what your foot is trying to do and make you able to crank just that much harder. It is a leap of faith, to be sure, but isn't that what climbing is all about?
For what it's worth, they will not stretch lengthwise, but as the cowdura molds to your foot, you should be able to eventually see all of your toe knuckles poking through the top of the upper. That means that your toes are curled down in the powerful position that the shoe was intended for.
Also, I wear size 12 street shoe, and the size 13 Anasazi velcro fits me perfectly (i.e. tight).
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aulwes
Sep 24, 2004, 2:45 PM
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I used to buy five-10's at 1 - 1.5 of a shoe size smaller but now I fould out after I purchased a pair online that they changed how they size their shoes. I wish they would just keep it consistant!
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symbiosissol
Dec 25, 2004, 6:28 PM
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I just got a pair for xmas...YAY! they also hurt, I have been wondering about wearing them to bed. I figure that if i can manage to get to sleep in them, a good 8 hours in them should help them conform to my foot. Has anyone tried this? Did your feet fall off? What do you think?
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jakedatc
Dec 25, 2004, 6:57 PM
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i wouldnt try it.. just wear them climbing and break them in that way... wearing them to bed will probably a) mess with your circulation b) hurt like hell c) cause some major foot cramps
just be patient lol
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