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peterw
Sep 3, 2004, 4:26 PM
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I'm planning a trip to the Potrero, if you've been in the last year or two can you tell me:
Is it worth it?
Are all the 11's and under low angle?
Are the long multipitch 11's etc still loose and/or dangerous?
Are there lots of single pitch 12's and 13's?
Where is the best place to stay?
What about the other climbing spots outside of the Potrero. Any good?
Any other info would be most helpful.
You can also email me at clownsarefunny@canada.com.
Peter
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markanite
Sep 3, 2004, 4:30 PM
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... its unbelievable. Diffently worth it.
Safe if u know what u r doing.
tons of single pitch and multipitch at all grades
elpotrerochico.com.mx for a place to stay
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epic_ed
Sep 3, 2004, 4:33 PM
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epic_ed moved this thread from General to Regional Discussions.
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alpnclmbr1
Sep 3, 2004, 4:42 PM
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Yes, it is worth it.
multi-pitch, 5.10 and under are low angle, loose, and dirty.
50 or 60 quality gimme single pitch 12-'s
El sendero diablo 11c 5 pitches clean and steller. rapping off is the crux(the only long route that I liked, the other multi pitch 11's tended to be drilled choss)
El Salto and Culo de Gato are both worth a visit if you are there for a while.
Stay at homero's or the pagoda
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jcinco
Sep 3, 2004, 4:52 PM
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Its been 3 years since I've been there, but here's my take
In reply to: I'm planning a trip to the Potrero, if you've been in the last year or two can you tell me: Is it worth it?
Depends. Personally I think it deserves the award for "most overhyped climbing area". With that said, the scene is great, the locals wonderful, and the setting is quite stunning. You'll have a super time if you don't set your expectations too high for the climbing. Its definitely not Spain, France, or Thailand.
In reply to: Are all the 11's and under low angle?
Pretty much.
In reply to: Are the long multipitch 11's etc still loose and/or dangerous?
I can't imagine they're not. Anyone who climbs one of the long route under another party is probabkly asking for it.
In reply to: Are there lots of single pitch 12's and 13's?
Fewer quality ones than you might like, but plenty of good ones for a road trip. The Surf Bowl is killer.
In reply to: Where is the best place to stay?
I've stayed at the place that Kurt Smith used to run, as well as Homero's. Nice places both, but the camping at Homero's is much more ghetto, with little privacy. I hear Kurt got screwed, so it might be bad ju-ju if you support the place now.
In reply to: What about the other climbing spots outside of the Potrero. Any good?
I can't answer this, but I hear there are some awesome surrounding crags.
Hope that helps.
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mistymountainhop
Sep 3, 2004, 5:47 PM
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In reply to: Depends. Personally I think it deserves the award for "most overhyped climbing area". With that said, the scene is great, the locals wonderful, and the setting is quite stunning. You'll have a super time if you don't set your expectations too high for the climbing. Its definitely not Spain, France, or Thailand.
quote]
My thoughts exactly, a great deal of the slabby stuff in my opinion is really chossy. IT is def. overhyped and but the scene is nice. it seems alot of the climbers there were more psyched on going on a really tall multi pitch then having really good climbing. Outrage wall and other overhanging stuff seemed to have the best quality stone. But overall, i would say its def. a good trip, a place to visit at least once.
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timstich
Sep 3, 2004, 6:19 PM
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The original poster is from Illinois, so they will have to fly. As a former Texan, Potrero Chico was a mere six hour drive. This tremendously improves your experience, as it becomes cheap. I've been there about six or seven times myself. As one person pointed out, it does not compare to going to Thailand, France, or Spain. How could it? It's in arid, industrialized northern Mexico. Even so, I'm betting a plane ticket to Monterrey is a quarter of the cost of going to France and one eighth the cost of going to the south pacific.
Some people feel it's overhyped. Now who might have been behind that? Just put all of that hype out of your mind. This is a limestone climbing destination with its good points and bad. Some bad ones were mentioned. I've posted TRs in the past listing still more. But it's good points bring you back. The atmosphere is very laid back, the beer and food is super cheap, and people are very friendly.
Some of the multipitch routes have somewhat unvaried pitches, like Yankee Clipper. Others have interesting pitches like Black Cat Bone, Space Boyz, and Snot Girlz. The Spires have cool routes, some pretty stiff like Pangea. Timewave Zero is 23 pitches to the top of the mountain. If you want to do the four star routes, ask around or look up Magic Ed. There should be some new routes on El Toro by now. There's a cave in that area last I heard.
Have a good time. Via con dios.
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missedyno
Sep 3, 2004, 6:28 PM
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i've been to potrero a couple times.... it is hyped, but it's worth it to see.
i was going to go back this year but the flight cost has almost doubled. may hit somewhere else instead.
I've always stayed at quinta la pagoda. it's not one of the "cool" places, but it's certainly close to the climbing and large enough for some privacy.
homero's is also close to the climbing, but not so private for camping.
la posada (sp?) is the new up and coming "party place" since cerro gordo fell from favour. i'm not sure, but i think it's the newest place too.
cerro gordo in my opinion is some of the nicest, most private camping, but due to that fact it's not unusual to hear of thefts happening from tents while climbers are on the rocks. it's the furthest from the climbing, but you can often catch a ride from someone driving into the canyon.
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jcr
Sep 3, 2004, 7:24 PM
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Everything said pretty much sums it up. I go all the time. EXCELLENT place to climb. Potrero has all kinds of grades (up to 5.14's) and all kinds of routes... sigle pitch, multiptch, overhanging, slabs, trad, sport, some bouldering, etc... Take a helmet (even though I dont use it unless Im multipitching), remember if you go at this time of year make sure you always have water (its pretty darn hot) or wait til winter (wich is usually high climbing season). For staying, theres lots of places (la posada and la pagoda have camping grouds $3 - $5 dlls a day and rooms +/- $25 dlls a day. homeros has a camping ground at the same price, and if you want a feeling of camping outdoors cerro gordo is the place for the same price. If you look around you can probably find houses for 6 to 8 people that cost around $10 bucks a day per person). People there are pretty cool and servicefull.
And if youre here you must as well go to la huasteca park, just 30- 45 min. drive to another EXCELLENT place for climbing.
If you are going to come (and need a climbing partner or someone who can show you around) or want some more specific information just PM or e-mail me and I can help you out.
Look around potrero and la huasteca sites, there is lots of information.
Hope this helps.
JC
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*thriller*
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Sep 3, 2004, 7:44 PM
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I've been to the potrero only once, but i'm headed back for new years. i was there in april, so the place was practically empty, but i had a great time. like everyone said, it's very relaxed and cheap. I can't say much about the hard climbing because I don't climb that hard, but i've heard there's some great stuff in teh surf bowl and on the outrage wall. if you're just into having a good time and getting high on big walls without the big rack, it's lots of fun.
as for camping, I stayed at la posada. i checked out the other places but found that cerro gordo was deserted, homero's got trashed since he leased it out to some dude who ran the place into the ground (hearsay), and pagoda seemed kinda ritzy. la posada was great - louis and his wife loui (?) are both super-nice, thought their english is a bit lacking (better off if you speak at least a little spanish). the place was clean and felt pretty secure, but you have to keep in mind there were only about a dozen people there in april, compared to probly a hundred or more come the busy season.
hope that helps
ian
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peterw
Sep 16, 2004, 1:25 PM
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Thanx for all the info guys, very much appreciated. To clarify, I am from Vancouver and the cost for flying is cheap for me. I can go to France etc for the same if not less but only have tw weeks. Been to The Red, Smith, Yosemite, Utah, Greece so where should I go then? Is early October too hot for the Potrero???
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jtoz
Sep 16, 2004, 1:34 PM
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Go to Spain...Rodellar.
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peterw
Sep 29, 2004, 4:09 AM
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IS THE BEGINNING OF OCTOBER TOO HOT?? DOES THE WEATHER FORECAST AND TEMPERATURES FOR MONTERREY TELL THE STORY OR IS IT COOLER WHERE THE CLIMBING IS?
THANX
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texasclimber
Sep 29, 2004, 4:16 AM
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In reply to: ... its unbelievable. Diffently worth it. Safe if u know what u r doing. tons of single pitch and multipitch at all grades elpotrerochico.com.mx for a place to stay
Ditto! It is a must visit place!
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jcr
Sep 29, 2004, 4:43 AM
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Well Pete,
The beginning of october is definately not as hot as summer and not as cold as winter (although you may still get one or two pretty darn hot days, as well as a very cold night). Right now, you should probably be checking for rain rather than heat, with all those hurracanes running around loose.
http://www.weather.com should tell you all you want to know about weather everywhere including monterrey, and yes, it is mostly accurate (although it almost never gets to the maximum temperature or minimum, its between both).
If you decide to come and need a partner, email me or pm me, I will gladly show you around.
JC
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chuffinator
Sep 29, 2004, 5:20 AM
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Yo!
Check out the Total Fitness Cave if you want to climb some steep overhanging tufa's.
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kitakat
Aug 12, 2005, 1:59 PM
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Just an update on the climbing in El Potrero Chico...
Over the last year there have been more than 80 new routes put up.
There are now large lights in the canyon making night-climbing possible on the Mini-Super, Central Scrutinizer, and Jungle Walls.
Tami has opened a very nice Coffee/Gift/Internet Cafe shop next to La Posada.
And lastly, There will be a new Guide Book coming out late this fall by Potrero Legend - Dane Bass. The book will contain all of the information about the local scene, hotels, camping, rest-day activities and more.
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