|
petsfed
Oct 5, 2004, 11:51 PM
Post #1 of 46
(8713 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
Being that my home crag is Vedauwoo, I've got sort of an affinity for them, but I also have a laundry list of why I enjoy offwidths (at least the easier ones).
1) They're secure. You can't actually fall out of them, unless you're doing something really wrong.
2) They keep you warm. Offwidths tend to be out of the wind, and full body exercise.
3) Good for the ego. Suddenly 5.7 is a badge of honor.
4) Never has good style looked so bad. Offwidths are all technique. And you can use your knees.
So why do you love or hate offwidths?
|
|
|
|
|
bandycoot
Oct 6, 2004, 12:02 AM
Post #2 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 25, 2002
Posts: 2028
|
I have to disagree about not being able to fall out of them. Maybe that applies to squeeze chimneys, but there are a lot of overhung offwidths near me and Leavittation isn't exactly easy... That said, I love the challenge they present and have gone out of my way a couple of times to practice them to improve that skill set.
Josh
|
|
|
|
|
pt
Oct 6, 2004, 12:18 AM
Post #3 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 29, 2003
Posts: 400
|
I usually climb at Vedauwoo every weekend in the summer - and I still suck at offwidths! So I guess I have a little love/hate thing going.
|
|
|
|
|
thegreytradster
Oct 6, 2004, 12:33 AM
Post #4 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 7, 2003
Posts: 2151
|
I'm fairly good at them, but once every few years is enough to remind me how much work they are. Last Saturday we did Right On at Josh with a 5.5 chicken wing width chimney. Black Bart's comment when he followed the pitch was "If that was 5.5 I'm sure glad Enter The Dragon, (5.9) fell down!". That and, Fists of Fury was part of the "abuse the kids" circuit.
I'd agree you can't generally fall out of them and your body is the pro, to a point. At about 5.9-5.10 that all changes though!
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Oct 6, 2004, 12:47 AM
Post #5 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
For the love of sh!t petsfed, this has got to be the stupidest post ever.
5.7 is still no badge of honor, stop climbing with beginners.
This August, Squat and Trip Master got redpointed in the same week by the same guy, a week later his buddy redpointed Lucille. Tell these boys that they are hard to fall out of. Somehow I think you missed that, I bet you were busy on Mother #1.
Don't get cocky. I climb 5.11 OW in the woo on a regular basis. Every wide 5.10 in Yosemite schooled me last month.
I like offwidths because the movement is far more creative than any other movement done on rock. I like to climb OW because of the accomplishment. Climbing to keep warm?, dude if it's that cold I'll just climb your mother once again.
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Oct 6, 2004, 12:49 AM
Post #6 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
"You can't actually fall out of them, unless you're doing something really wrong."
I like to take a burn on Generator Crack every so often. I haven't got it 100% worked out and I can attest to the fact that it is most definately possible to fall out of an overhanging 5" crack.
"no lines"
I've been turned around twice at lines for OWs in Yosemite. Chingando once. Generator once. But admittedly, that's been it.
"seeing bloody ankles on suitors with gym shoes"
Where can you get a good pair of high top boots anymore? Tape only goes so far. (felt the burn on my torn ankle in the shower this morning)
|
|
|
|
|
danbensen
Oct 6, 2004, 1:31 AM
Post #7 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 27, 2003
Posts: 47
|
I used to hate offwidths simply because the first TR I ever tried was a 5.9 overhang offwidth with some loose rock and moss right below the crux (not to mention that I had yet to buy shoes, forgot my chalk, my technique was terrible, and I was swetting so much it turned the whole route into a damn waterfall). I was also too short for the final move, and after half an hour of trying to get up using friction I sliced my foot open on a patch of crystals. I've been meanign to go back and give it another shot, but I forgot how to get there (yeah I know, its a stupid reason)
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Oct 6, 2004, 12:49 PM
Post #8 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
In reply to: For the love of sh!t petsfed, this has got to be the stupidest post ever.
well that was a eloquent statement
|
|
|
|
|
euroford
Oct 6, 2004, 1:55 PM
Post #9 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
|
i've only done a small amount of offwidth as we really don't have much at my local climbing area, but i've dug the little that i've done and will likely jump on some more as the opportunity presents itself. after seeing crack of fear on front range freaks and recently visiting lumpy ridge i've added that route to my 'someday' tick-list.
and the pro is just cool. i've not placed it many times, but i just dig having my WC #6 and get a huge smile when it gets used.
|
|
|
|
|
holmeslovesguinness
Oct 6, 2004, 2:02 PM
Post #10 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Oct 10, 2002
Posts: 548
|
Hmmm.... yes, whenever I need to indulge my masochistic side, offwidths are kind of fun. We actually TR'd Fantasia last weekend. Still feels pretty frickin' hard. One short pitch of climbing managed to tweak more muscles than I even knew I had.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 6, 2004, 2:07 PM
Post #11 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
One of my favorite things about ow's is the security...As long it's not overhanging (and in my world it never is) and somewhere between a knee and a butt cheek in width, even if I can't move up an inch, it's unlikely that I'd just come winging out.
My least favorite thing about them is the 10 lb. gear.
|
|
|
|
|
eastvillage
Oct 6, 2004, 2:49 PM
Post #12 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 14, 2004
Posts: 262
|
Top 10 reasons for loving Off Width's.
1. Nothing in a climbing gym prepares you for them, they are REAL climbing on REAL rocks.
2. No amount of crying or whimpering will help get you up.
3. #2 makes nearby climbers laugh quitely to themselves.
4. Coming home with bloodied hands, forearms, elbows and knees makes for a memorable day.
5. No crowds or lines, ever, no matter what the grade.
6. They terrify sport climbers.
7. Sucess on them gives you much confidence, because no squeeze chimney ever yielded to direct aid.
8. Yes, 5.7 OW at Veauwoo is tough.
9. Make it and you da man.
10. Don't make it, you're weak.
|
|
|
|
|
petsfed
Oct 6, 2004, 4:20 PM
Post #13 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 25, 2002
Posts: 8599
|
No joke, Lucille got repeated? Sweet.
I'd heard about Justin on Trip Master Monkey and Squat. Still haven't met him, but good on 'im.
Incidentally, anybody know what Scarpelli's been up to lately? I've run in to him so many times in the last few months, but never get a chance to ask.
For what its worth, I pointed out my affinity for easier offwidths. I can do, and enjoy somewhat more moderate offwidths, but the security starts to fade as the cracks get harder. I once heard somebody on this board claim that those who are skilled in offwidths were of that sort because they could not climb hard on any other medium. Having been spit off my share of harder offwidths, I can say this isn't the case. Those who specialize in easy to moderate offwidths can't climb hard on any other medium, but that's because they can't climb hard at all.
|
|
|
|
|
verbal
Oct 6, 2004, 4:51 PM
Post #14 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 9, 2001
Posts: 39
|
Didn't Bart almost onsite Lucille, and I know a few very good Offwidth climbers who climb hard sport, and boulder hard.
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Oct 6, 2004, 4:53 PM
Post #15 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 7, 2004, 1:04 PM
Post #16 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: "They're secure. You can't actually fall out of them" Spoken like someone who's never tried Generator Crack.
The rest of his statement was 'unless you're doing something wrong'...If you're solid with your ow technique and strong enough to climb 5.10 ow, I doubt that you'd come winging out of this climb. You may get wicked tired, if your life or limb depended on you not falling, you'd just sit on your knee or thigh and hang on... It's not like face climbing where you might unexpectedly see your self taking to the air. As a certified chicken sh!t, I'm most aware of this difference when I pick my routes.
|
|
|
|
|
iamthewallress
Oct 7, 2004, 1:06 PM
Post #17 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 2, 2003
Posts: 2463
|
In reply to: It's hard to come by hightops these days and tape only goes so far sometimes. I've got a mangled ankle right now.
Ace bandage ankle supports. :wink:
|
|
|
|
|
megableem
Oct 7, 2004, 5:46 PM
Post #18 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 13, 2004
Posts: 160
|
.
|
|
|
|
|
piton
Oct 7, 2004, 6:10 PM
Post #19 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 11, 2002
Posts: 1034
|
hand stacks work great for the lower section g crack. i think it right fist open left.
|
|
|
|
|
holdplease2
Oct 7, 2004, 6:32 PM
Post #20 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Dec 18, 2002
Posts: 1733
|
The best way to avoid falling out of generator crack is to climb the tree beside it until you are high enough to fit your butt in the crack. Some of us, admitidly, have to climb higher than others.
-Kate.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Oct 12, 2004, 12:55 AM
Post #21 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
In reply to: The best way to avoid falling out of generator crack is to climb the tree beside it until you are high enough to fit your butt in the crack. Some of us, admitidly, have to climb higher than others. -Kate.
Yup. As with any other offwidth, the best way to avoid falling out of it is to not climb it. Sheesh.
Can't fall out of OWs!?
Try 9th pitch of Magic Mushroom. "Only" 5.9 :shock:
Try Ebola at Potter's Rock, Sonora Pass, California. See if you can get the first free lead of the thing. :roll:
Brutus, who excels at falling out of OWs.
|
|
|
|
|
j_ung
Oct 12, 2004, 3:10 PM
Post #22 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
|
I can't believe I'm posting to this goddam thread. F-ing offwidths...
OK, so I was at Beauty Mtn last weekend and wanted to climb Super Crack (5.9) to get to the top to drop a rope to take shots of a buddy on Chasing the Wind. Well, as always, SC was glogged with traffic, so I said screw it, "I'll hop on Fat Man's Folly." Sure, it's a squeeze, but it's only 5.9 and with a name like Fat Man's Folly, how can anybody really take it seriously?
Despite several large and bulbous spiders, the opening corner was cheap and easy and lead to a spacious ledge. From the ledge, however, I stared up into the gaping maw of a one-foot wide body muncher. Oh God, I thought. What have I done? Twenty thrashing, wiggling, squirming, cursing, grunting, slithering, groveling, sniveling, whining, head scumming, ass barring feet later I finally slipped a sweaty, bloody hand into a perfect jam.
Like a greedy whore, it offered only a moment of tainted pleasure before widening again, all the while grinning hungrily as it poked a gun in my ribs and demanded my wallet, credit cards and all. My feet skated uneffectively around inside the top of the chimney as my hands fought for purchase. Then, like a prom queen with a p3nis in her mouth she simply spit me out.
I was airborn, but not for long. I plopped right back into the chimney and stopped short as my fat, gear-adorned ass wedged tighlty between its cheeks before the rope even had a chance to do it's thing.
It was handsdown the hardest, least fun New River route I have ever attempted, but I'm thinking of getting back on it... err... in it. Next time I'll bring a rubber... err... #5 Camelot.
How can anyone possibly enjoy that?
|
|
|
|
|
he-man
Deleted
Oct 12, 2004, 4:09 PM
Post #23 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered:
Posts:
|
I think that most OWs can be summed up buy a guide books description of a climb called Superior Crack 5.8 (palisade head, MN). "This climb may elicit more cursing per linear foot than any other route in this guide."
and yes, you can fall out of OWs, ask my wife, she will show you the scar.
|
|
|
|
|
brutusofwyde
Oct 13, 2004, 1:17 AM
Post #24 of 46
(8711 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 3, 2002
Posts: 1473
|
In reply to: But down at the bottom of this particular crack, most of us cannot get in a knee, much less a thigh. So while either chickenwinging like a madman or doing handstacks and calf jams I think it is definately possible to lose it and come out.
Hmmm. Bottom's too narrow for chickenwings. I like a left arm bar coupled with a left foot jam, right foot smeared on face, and right hand Gastoning the right edge of the crack. Move up via peristalsis of the left side, particularly the elbow and palm and shoulder, until the crack widens enough for the knees, and both feet.
As for soloing Generator Crack, the most insecure move is actually the turnaround just below the overhang. Once you get into the squeeze above, life is good.
Or so I heard from someone who soloed it while (quite) drunk. (Stupid idiot.)
Brutus off Wyde
|
|
|
|
|
rendog
Oct 13, 2004, 4:03 AM
Post #25 of 46
(8472 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 30, 2002
Posts: 2468
|
In reply to: Being that my home crag is Vedauwoo, I've got sort of an affinity for them, but I also have a laundry list of why I enjoy offwidths (at least the easier ones). 1) They're secure. You can't actually fall out of them, unless you're doing something really wrong. 2) They keep you warm. Offwidths tend to be out of the wind, and full body exercise. 3) Good for the ego. Suddenly 5.7 is a badge of honor. 4) Never has good style looked so bad. Offwidths are all technique. And you can use your knees. So why do you love or hate offwidths?
you are just one sick twisted monkey man that's all I can say
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
