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sync
Oct 6, 2004, 2:15 PM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
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I'm thinking about getting on the sharp end for the first time and was wondering if anyone might recommend good routes to start on. I am pretty comfortably at 5.6-5.7 and so was thinking a good 5.4 would be good.
Thanks!
-sync
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neuroshock
Oct 6, 2004, 2:32 PM
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Double Overhang was a nice 5.4, so i thought. one of my own beginner leads, has some nice exposure towards the top.
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stuckinmidwest
Oct 6, 2004, 2:56 PM
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Registered: Jul 28, 2004
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On the west bluff...There's a few sides of Cleo's Needle that are 5.4's. Decent climbs with great exposure on the top. Bomber bolt with rap ring so getting down is no problem. It'll even spin if you wanna set up a top rope off of that anchor on one of the harder sides. I think hardest is 5.7. Depending on the way you get up, make sure you take the time to look at the lake. When I did it I climbed facing away from the lake up the last block, when i turned around after sitting on top, I was blown away. If your'e gonna stick around up top, make sure you wobble that top block. It'll shake if you try hard enough.
http://climbingdevilslake.com/rock/db/west_bluff___cleo_amphitheater/the_cleo_amphitheater/
Another good lead right by there is Queen's Throne (5.4) It's a wide crack that's inbetween the corner where two walls meet. This and a few other easy leads are all in Cleo's Amphitheater.
Hope this gives you some ideas. The hike to Cleo's is a bit longer than to the top of the East Bluff but the path is a bit easier. The only thing is that it's kinda hard to find because you have to climb down a bit to get to it. But you go out on each of the butresses, you will see the top of it and a shiny bolt on top. Then go down through a small gulley wand around a bit and you'll end up at the base of Cleo's.
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sync
Oct 6, 2004, 3:23 PM
Post #4 of 8
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
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Yeah, I was thinking of Double Overhang as a possibility.
I've climbed Cleo's Needle before, and I think I'll avoid it as a first lead just because if I recall correctly there isn't much pro in the last several feet of the top block. It is quite a view though! And I was definitely a bit frazzled by the wobble! :shock:
Queen's Throne might be a good one - I hadn't thought of it. I've climbed it a couple of times. The crack is quite large though and seems like it'd need big gear.
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dynoguy
Oct 6, 2004, 3:24 PM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2003
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You can lead at Devil's Lake? :lol:
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sync
Oct 7, 2004, 3:59 AM
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Registered: Aug 22, 2003
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I'm thinking of trying. :shock:
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holdplease2
Oct 7, 2004, 4:38 AM
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Registered: Dec 18, 2002
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Cleo's needle is great...especially because of the really special top out. I would be proud to call it a first lead. Just make sure you find the 5.4 part and make sure you aren't in choss.
If you are a strong climber (as in, comfy on DL 10s+ on TR) the greatest ever first leads are at the sandstone area (whichever of the two are still open for climbing) American Beauty is great, I think, or the one to the left...whichever one is RIGHT of the dihedral. And curving crack, though it is quite awkward and you need to know how to jam for sure. Nice toprope right beside it, too...
To be your mother for a minute, just please check CAREFULLY for lose blocks which can shift sideways when cams activate. I think this is the biggest hazard of leading at the lake. That, and with such short climbs, you must protect often...even near the top.
Good luck, be safe, and enjoy!
-Kate.
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mckbill
Sep 1, 2011, 3:20 PM
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Registered: Sep 20, 2005
Posts: 97
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The Bone (5.5) at Pork chop buttress. Stable rock, good crack for lots of pro, and a challenging mantle into a roof to negotiate. Easy to setup TR for a preview.
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