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duff2071


May 22, 2002, 3:50 AM
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tricams
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it seems everyone loves a good set of tricams, but i'm wondering, how on earth can place a tricam in a vertical crack, and what are some good brand names (viamont- any one heard of them)


Partner tim


May 22, 2002, 4:15 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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lowe/camp tricams are the standard brand.

I'm not sure I would bother loading tricams in their "active" position in a vertical crack, they are apt to wiggle out from rope movement. Much better to drop them in as passive nuts.

They're cheap and make good leaver pieces for rap anchors, so I almost always bring a pink and a red tricam on multi-pitch routes.


stevematthys


May 22, 2002, 9:23 PM
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if you worried about them wiggling out you can always attach a longer runner to them, this will help decrease rope drag and the chance of pro coming out.


pelliott


May 22, 2002, 9:57 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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I always feel safer using my tricams in a horizontal crack. I think nuts and hexes work better in the vertical ones.


clmbnski


May 22, 2002, 10:23 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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tricams work fine in vertical cracks. just find a nubbin to set the spike on and give it a good yank to set it in place. throw a runner on it to prevent the rope from pulling it out. the cracks can even be parallel. My friend led a 5.9 in indian creek only using tricams, although he didnt fall on them Im sure they would have held. the only downfall is that they take a little more time to place then poping in a cam.


Partner tim


May 23, 2002, 2:55 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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clymbnski,

your friend is a fucking hardman. go stud. hell, the first ascent of Supercrack was protected with Hexes. still, you have to admit that the things are a lot easier to place on horizontal (cough *GUNKS* cough) shelves than in vertical cracks. less nubbins in the cracks.

I'm not 100% sure I'd trust tricams in parallel cracks in harder rock. paradoxically I think I *would* trust tricams set with a tug in sandstone, they would tend to dig in rather than tracking out...


FWIW I rapped off a single pink Tricam dropped into a vertical fissure at Lumpy when I failed to find the rap anchors for CPSAES. It held


[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-22 19:57 ]


k9rocko


May 23, 2002, 3:20 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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And what did your mother say about using more than one piece of protection??

Quote: FWIW I rapped off a single pink Tricam dropped into a vertical fissure at Lumpy when I failed to find the rap anchors for CPSAES. It held



[ This Message was edited by: k9rocko on 2002-05-22 20:24 ]


tenn_dawg


May 23, 2002, 3:40 AM
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Long live the NUMBER PINK tricam. I use that thing all the time especially in horizontal cracks. I don't think i'd rap of it as my only pro, but I guess whatever does it for you man.
Travis


traddaddy


May 23, 2002, 4:09 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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I used to hate tricams and the bigger ones scared me (in the cammed position). But that little pink sucker quickly became friend.



Partner tim


May 23, 2002, 4:28 AM
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k9rocko:

my mom climbs harder than you do (5.10 in Tuolumne, and yes I have the pictures) so STFU, ya fucking 5.9-falling-off punk.
(had to read your bio after that post)

The key is to leave a big fat cam placement above the wimpy gear and send the fat guy down with the pack. If it blows, the bigass cam (or cams, or nuts) kick in. If not, the second pulls the anchor and comes down. Lather, rinse, repeat. I've done this off a shifty-looking #2 nut in the Needles and it held fine. The key is to send the fat guy down with all the heavy stuff and have them violently bounce around, etc. If it holds through all that s--- you're home free.

HTH



[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-22 21:29 ]


sexton


May 24, 2002, 2:59 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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Jabbeaux has it right. Back up the rap with something bomber, have the fat guy rap first with the pig and bounce aggressively. If it holds, remove the backup and go own your way.

Ooze,

I told ya you were barking up the wrong tree. I like tricams and have doubles in pink, red, and brown.

I was happy to call this a difference of opinion and leave it at that. But your act of personally insulting me on a thread I haven't posted to seems like 12 year old behavior. You just won't let it be. So reluctantly...

I've liked most of the things you've written here and other places. Sounds reasonable and there's some good writing. Your recent comments on relationships and women were rather repulsive, but that's beside the point.

Posted on July 26, 01
>But I can only follow about trad 5.8 and lead about .6 at the moment.
>
Now I know you've had a bad accident that limits your climbing. Seriously, these flame fests are fun and all, but I hate to hear of anyone getting hurt climbing, or hurt in any other way.

It doesn't give you a free ride to be an @sshole, though.

Maybe you were a serious hard core climber before your accident. Hats off for coming back to it and getting out there. I mean it. Lots of folks would be scared off. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt. But a few of your other posts make me think otherwise.

>Hey guys. I live in Upper Marlboro (southern DC burbs) and I'm always short
of partners. I go to Nelson Rocks 2-3 times a month and rarely climb
elsewhere, just because I own it, but I should try to branch out a bit.
>
That's a big tip off. Most serious climbers have a slew of partners to fill the bill, get out way more than 2-3 times a month, and travel to lots of different areas.

I've come across guys like you, Stu. You stay in your own little crag that only the locals know about, scope out 5.5 routes that you clean and love, usually climb alone, work on solo/self-belay, 'practice' aid climbing.

>Jeff - are you intersted in aid climbing/training for walls?
>
Yeah, that's what I thought. 'Practicing' aiding instead of aiding. Seems I recall you were going to attempt your first wall. Did you go to Yosemite or Zion? Seems to me you were heading to Whitesides, that aid climbing mecca that everyone travels around the world to get to. How did that go?

Posted August 9, 01
>My big day came last year when I put up
my first and only FA ever, of a really good 2-pitch 5.5, [snip] One of my best climbing days ever.
>
So what were you doing before your accident? One of your best days ever, climbing 5.5 in nowhere?

Posted October 31, 01
>I have two Nelson first ascents to my credit, pretty exciting for an old
crippled guy. One is a 5.6 sport route which people seem to really like. [snip] But
the one I'm really proud of is a 5.4 trad line, two pitches to the top of
the west fin.
>
It is exciting for an old crippled guy. But it's pretty lame for someone who spouts at the mouth as much as you do. Is that the same route as your 2-pitch 5.5 FA? Downgraded already? Or did someone else enter your private world and downgrade it for you?

>It takes a little bit of work to get to it, and think it's only been repeated once, but I'm confident it's going to be "discovered".
>
Hillarious. It could be that not many climbers are willing to travel to an unknown place to 'send' your 5.4 route. Or at least not willing to admit to it.

But hang in there. I'm sure the floodgates are bursting with people just drooling to get a chance at that masterpiece.



tenn_dawg


May 24, 2002, 3:47 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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Ummm...yeah....well...uhhh. How bout those tri-cams everybody?
Sheesh..flames abound around here.
Travis


newbieclimber


May 24, 2002, 8:29 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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"The key is to send the fat guy down with all the heavy stuff and have them violently bounce around, etc. If it holds through all that s--- you're home free."

not always. stephen venables ripped out a piton mid rap after his two heavier partners rapped off it. he was in a world of hurt but somehow survived to write a book about his ordeal called "a slender thread".

"My friend led a 5.9 in indian creek only using tricams..."

thats a dangerous practice. active cams in sandstone with a much greater camming range have been known to rip out. stick to cams and hexes and place pro often. keep three pieces between you and the ground.

well placed tri cams in vertical cracks in solid rock are bomber. you can trust them more than a nut and they fit in spots nuts cant. dont leave the ground without em.


[ This Message was edited by: newbieclimber on 2002-05-24 01:32 ]


krustyklimber


May 24, 2002, 9:26 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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I can't believe that Crap hasn't called me a "pinko commie" yet!

I am one though, 'cause I don't own any Tri-Cams (or TCU's Adam )
They are on my list, but I still have more important things like a hauler and adjustable aiders to buy!

Jeff


climber1


May 24, 2002, 7:45 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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I agree with everyone that likes the pink tricam its the bomb. if you cam it correctly, it won't walk.


cedk


May 24, 2002, 8:15 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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Yes! Pink and Red rule! There is no reason not to have those on your rack. Go buy one of each now! If you're broke donate plasma or roll pennies. Whatever it takes.


clmbnski


May 25, 2002, 2:42 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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In response to newbieclimber:

While climbing at indian creek using only tricams is probably not as safe as using cams, I wouldnt call it dangerous as long as they are placed correctly and regularly, but my point was that they work in even parallel vertical cracks. rock type is another question.

[ This Message was edited by: clmbnski on 2002-05-25 07:43 ]


stevematthys


May 25, 2002, 3:51 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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pink tri-cam kicks ass


timpanogos


May 27, 2002, 4:36 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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gumby observation coming:

First time I saw tricams (within the last 2 months - which is how long I've been climbing) - I thought, yea, those will really bite in.

However, I wondered if they would bite too much - the pressure on that point must be incredible when loaded in a camming position - possibly popping a chunk of rock loose, pointed chisel style?

Just a dumb fear/thought on first impression. For a nut/cam combo - they seemed like something I will want to look into as I build my rack.




bshaftoe


May 27, 2002, 5:38 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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The pink tricam does indeed rock.


newbieclimber


May 27, 2002, 9:55 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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"I wouldnt call it dangerous as long as they are placed correctly and regularly..."

most experienced desert climbers would consider it extremely dangerous. the sandstone at indian creek is very frail and the points on tricams will pulverize the rock causing the tri cam to rip out. tri cams and nuts are not part of a desert rack.


atg200


May 27, 2002, 6:40 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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wrong newbie. while i wouldn't be too keen on leading an indian creek pitch purely on tricams, i've used them in parallel cracks at arches(the entrada there makes IC wingate look like granite) and they've survived bounce tests admirably well.

wingate sandstone(indian creek) is not incredibly frail. it is pretty damn bomber as long as the varnish isn't gone, and falling on a tricam won't do that. people whip onto nuts on the wave at supercrack buttress all the time, and they hold. the reason cams are generally used is that they seat better in parallel cracks than anything else - you really have to work at it to get a decent hex or tricam placement.

next!


indigo_nite


May 28, 2002, 6:10 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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I like tri-cams (pink, red, brown) but they're still on my shopping list. I like them on vertical slightly-flaring cracks. Love them in horizontal cracks. I think they tend to be easier to remove than nuts/hexes.


sexton


May 29, 2002, 12:26 AM
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tricams [In reply to]
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atg200 is exactly right. Compared to Castleton, Fisher, and lots of Zion, Indian Creek is pretty solid rock.

I wouldn't climb IC with mostly tricams either, but not because I'd worry about them pulling.


clmbnski


May 29, 2002, 2:25 PM
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tricams [In reply to]
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We did a little aid climbing while we were in indian creek so I got a real feel for the strength of the rock. we were on a little seam so I couldnt use anything as big as a tricam but I did put in tiny nuts and cam hooks. the rock held everything as long as it was a good placement.

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