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traddaddy
May 23, 2002, 2:48 PM
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What the worst/mankiest/scariest anchor you have had to rappel from on an ice climb (vegitation included).
My friend that is going to take me ice climbing this next season has already started with the horror stories.
[ This Message was edited by: traddaddy on 2002-05-23 07:50 ]
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tim
May 23, 2002, 3:47 PM
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V-threads are scary but good. Whenever possible, I prefer to walk off... trusting popsicles for rap anchors is not my thing.
To be honest, the worst anchors I've used were all alpine. Shifty micronuts, balanced rocks, etc. As long as you send the fat guy down first with the pack (and maybe some rocks shoveled into the pack) and keep the anchor backed up as best as possible during that "test run", it can be as scary as you like, but it ain't gonna blow. Or at least, I have bet my life on this practice more times than I care to remember (20-30 times).
ps. Where are you going ice climbing? I'd s--- my pants on some of those routes in the Canadian Rockies. Some of the alpine routes in the Rockies and Sierras are pretty rad, though, and not so terrifying.
[ This Message was edited by: jabbeaux on 2002-05-23 08:49 ]
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bradhill
May 23, 2002, 5:13 PM
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Most ice climbs that aren't M-graded should take a V thread, which is really a pretty bomber anchor (just don't use the melted-out ones you find already in place). This does require the foresight to stop while there's still ice and not top out onto terrain with nowhere to build an anchor.
I agree that alpine "anchors" are often much scarier. Chossy mixed rock and snow above treeline don't give you a lot of options. Bring pins.
As for hard mixed routes- there's a reason most of the hard ones are bolted. Gaahh... who wants to take a leader fall on a Spectre?
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traddaddy
May 23, 2002, 5:53 PM
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Quote:
ps. Where are you going ice climbing? I'd s--- my pants on some of those routes in the Canadian Rockies. Some of the alpine routes in the Rockies and Sierras are pretty rad, though, and not so terrifying.
We'll be on the North shore of Lake Superior.
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tim
May 24, 2002, 6:15 AM
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Mm, Thunder Bay or thereabouts? I guess that really does mean 'next season' then.
I was thinking alpine -- the good stuff in CA and CO (alpine wise) stays in shape from about August to about November. (no, I have no idea why this is. it just is that way)
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beyond_gravity
May 25, 2002, 3:25 AM
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V-threds should not be scary! I'd trust a V over a screw...but then again..I dont really trust screws
Dont use old ones, at least not as your primary!! I allways find the most soild "old" one, then drill one of my own, and back it up with the old one. Maybe i'm just paraniod, but lots of people die ice climbing!
[ This Message was edited by: beyond_gravity on 2002-11-02 08:24 ]
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jtcronk
May 28, 2002, 4:58 AM
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The scariest thing I've ever rappelled off of was also in an alpine setting. It was in the Tetons in the fall. We were rapping down the north face of the Grand after getting our butts whipped. After rappelling a few times successfully off of rock gear, we ended up not being able to get any rock gear in, no ice to be found, no vegetation, etc. We ended up burying a picket deadman-style in about 10" of snow on the edge of a small ledge. Scary!!!! It's all we could get, and I guess since I'm typing this and still climbing 5 years later, I guess it worked.....
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coclimber26
Nov 2, 2002, 3:33 AM
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I cut an ice bollard but couldn't cut very deep because of rock. I managed a good 3" but was weary of the lip I had cut. She held fine and I didn't have any problems retrieving the rope but I was fearfull of it poping over the lip the whole rapell..
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brutusofwyde
Nov 4, 2002, 1:11 AM
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> Most ice climbs that aren't
> M-graded should take a V thread,
> which is really a pretty bomber
> anchor
Not in California.
Brutus of Wyde
Old Climbers' Home
Oakland, California
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rockprodigy
Nov 4, 2002, 3:58 PM
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People die all the time when V-threads fail...I've cimbed ice all over the lower 48 and I've never had to use one. There's always been a tree or a big boulder to tie off. I always bring a few pitons as well, and I've rapped off of those before too. You'd be surprised what you can walk off too.
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rendog
Nov 10, 2002, 9:55 PM
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I've used V threads in all kinds of situations. I trust them if I makee them and will always treat someone elses as suspect until I have a REALLY good look at them.
most of the time that they fail is if you just go up to a thread and automatically figure that if some has put it in then its good. ALWAYS INSPECT someone elses work. if you don't like it then build your own and then tie the two together now you have double the pleasure.
Also, when you build a thread, when the first person raps off make sure that you back up with a solid screw tied off to the thread. clip this not just to the v thread, but to you rope as well.
I've come off some pretty manky stations, and I've have to say that the V-thread, and a good bolted station of course are the most bomber that I've used.
most importantly...use you head and common sense. It can save your life
"D"
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coconutz
Nov 11, 2002, 2:04 AM
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I with rockprodigy. Since Ice forms where there is usually water, there is usually trees to be had some where. If not directly at the top of the climb then some where close. Plus he's right, there isen't much you can't walk off of.
I think V-threads are used for situations where it is dangrous to finish and top out (avy danger) or on LONG HARD climbs where the safest way down is to rap the climbing line.
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ontario_guide
Nov 29, 2002, 11:18 PM
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V-Threads in good ice will hold way more then you will put on them in a rappell. V-threads in bad ice might fail slightly above your body weight. It's just like anything else in ice climbing. You gear is only as good as the ice it is going into. If you need to use a V-thread, Abalakov thread for the oldtimers, and you are worried about it, back it up with a second one. Just seperate them by at least 18 inches and equalize them. 2 Abalakov threads in really good ice will hold a truck!
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traddaddy
Dec 4, 2002, 1:40 PM
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ok guys (& gals),
I googled around to look up V Thread, but I couldn't find it.
Would someone explain to this ice gumby, how a v thread is made and used? (I obviously want to come back down after going up )
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vertical_reality
Dec 4, 2002, 2:07 PM
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Basically a V-Thread is created by using one-two ice screws to create two intersecting ice screw holes (when viewed from above it would look like a V). You then thread a length cord through the holes. This is done by using a threading tool (like a peice of a coat hanger with a small hook at the end). The cord is pulled through and tied off appropriately.
"How to Ice Climb" by Craig Luebben is a great reference book for such topics.
Climb Wisely
Mike
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traddaddy
Dec 4, 2002, 2:56 PM
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Thanks for the info Mike. It makes a lot more sense now that I can envision it in my head...NOW I'M SCARED!!!! lol
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