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bonads
Oct 12, 2004, 1:38 PM
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Last night at our local gym, a guy i know fell approx. 20ft to the floor while toproping. Luckily he wasn't hurt, i think he was just shaken up, which is understandable. Apparently he forgot to tie in, so when he fell, the rope just came right out of the harness. It's scary how easily it can happen when somebody distracts you while you're tying in.
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treesail
Oct 12, 2004, 1:57 PM
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Registered: Jul 16, 2004
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I've noticed a kind of casualness -- about doing a simple belay check before every climb -- that happens when people have been climbing for awhile. I got pretty casual myself until reading about Lynn Hill's accident -- if Hill can make a mistake like this . . . .
Belay checks take all of five seconds.
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greyicewater
Oct 12, 2004, 4:36 PM
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Registered: Dec 8, 2003
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yeah, belay checks are an amazing life saver...
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robmcc
Oct 12, 2004, 4:39 PM
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That's a tough one to say anything useful about that isn't obvious.
You just have to pay attention to your safety system. Period. Complacency will bite you in the ass if you offer it enough opportunities.
Rob
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lordshockspeare
Oct 12, 2004, 4:44 PM
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Registered: Aug 25, 2004
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I had a friend who ended up tieing into only a leg loop and flipped upside down while being lowered. He was of course fine but quite shaken. The moral of the story however is that Drugs and Climbing don't necessarily mix. ...
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iridesantacruz
Oct 12, 2004, 4:47 PM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2002
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i had something scary happen to me recently... my belayer grabbed the wrong end of the rope, and i fell from about 30 ft up... it was slowed, but still a fast fall, i was alright and climbed that weekend
-chris
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robmcc
Oct 12, 2004, 4:49 PM
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In reply to: i had something scary happen to me recently... my belayer grabbed the wrong end of the rope
Oh yeah, and a competent, attentive belayer is a critical part of your safety system.
Rob
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natas
Oct 12, 2004, 5:51 PM
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Registered: May 3, 2004
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ha ha, :twisted: good thing he was in a gym
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packclimber
Oct 12, 2004, 6:28 PM
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I always have taught and use a simple check.
BARK
Buckles Checkes your harness
Anchor makes sure you are anchored (Especially when the belayer is lighter)
Rope makes sure your rope is not tangled
Knot checkes to make sure the knot is correct and is actually tied in
It takes about a minute, but will save you time in the ER.
Also if the belayer is not happy the way everything is done you get it right before you climb.
Another one I have come to use is the 123 method
1 tie point
2 points of contact with your harness
3 count it off 123 4th side covered for your buckles
Another Tip
The climber says "On belay" does his check and is vocal about what he is checking then the belayer does his check and afterward says "Belay on"
which means everything is set up correctly. Next the climber says "Climbing" it tells the belayer he is ready to start. Last the belayer says "Climb on." That tells the climber the belayer is ready to catch him should he fall.
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overlord
Oct 13, 2004, 12:45 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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thats why i dont top rope in the gym. cant forget to tie the knot :wink:
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happiegrrrl
Oct 13, 2004, 1:30 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2004
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In reply to: It's scary how easily it can happen when somebody distracts you while you're tying in.
This was an interesting sentence for me. As I read it, the little safety voice in my head gave me a sort of an affirmation.... I heard it say, rather firmly, "I take responsibility for my safety. I do not become distracted."
I climb with a lot of different partners, both indoors and outdoors. Many times they are people I am roping up with for the first time. As can be expected, there is a wide variety of safety-consciousness. Some are very "Let's do the check." Some are completely oblivious. Some seem to check my gear but don't focus on their own and vice versa.....
I don't demand a slow-motion acronym-based safety run-through before each and every climb from my partners, but I do perform the check on my own if they have a softer attitude about it than I do, especially when there has been a lapse betwen climbs in the gym or some delay in the process outside.
I can't control others, but the safety check behavior is a telling clue for me as to what level of comfort I will feel with the person, and though I have yet to walk away from a partner because of the feeling I get, I have made the decision to not make a second climb, or go out on a second day, with them. I hope that, should my little voice ever tell me "Run, don't walk, and don't be waiting for the light to change, either...." that I will listen.
It's up to me to not be distracted. To take the attitude of "they distracted me" allows me to not be accountable. A simple change in perspective, but a big difference, nonetheless.
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wormly81
Oct 13, 2004, 2:49 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: thats why i dont top rope in the gym. cant forget to tie the knot :wink: The reason why you don't toprope in the gym is to make sure you never forget to tie your knot? How strange. :P
I feel that my perspective of climbing saftey has been positively influenced by learning outdoors and following lots of trad. Climbing involves complete attention to the most minute details and I feel the outdoor environment nurtures this focus.
Additionally, I feel time spent in the alpine environment is instrumental in developing a true perspective of the art of climbing. The most alluring part of climbing is where it takes you and what you get to see. Probably the reason I cant seem to enjoy myself at the best gyms.
Jeff
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overlord
Oct 13, 2004, 2:59 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
no, the reason why i dont TR in gym is because i dont bother with roping up, i jsut boulder. and that also keep me safe from forgetting to tie in, so its a bonus :P
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