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Oct 13, 2004, 3:38 PM
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euroford
Oct 13, 2004, 3:42 PM
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don't paste your feet on the sides. camming your feet into the crack is what its all about.
stick your foot in vertically, with your knee out to your side, then twist your leg until your knee is infront/below you so you can stand up on your foot.
this works like a charm
and rather than placing gear above you, where you want to jamb your hand, place gear at your waist or below after you have already used the jamb and moved onto the next one.
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Oct 13, 2004, 3:50 PM
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[quote:2f5b754c20="euroford"]don't paste your feet on the sides. camming your feet into the crack is what its all about.
stick your foot in vertically, with your knee out to your side, then twist your leg until your knee is infront/below you so you can stand up on your foot.
this works like a charm
and rather than placing gear above you, where you want to jamb your hand, place gear at your waist or below after you have already used the jamb and moved onto the next one.[/quote:2f5b754c20]
Great tips thanks, yeah I tried camming a toe into the rock but it was a really wierd crack was flared for like 5 inches on the outside then turned into a perfect fingers crack deeper in. My feet where hurting since I'm a heavy climber and I started to sort of get a toe into the crack, but it hurt like (*&^( .
I'm going to try to find some finger crack boulder problems to work on, I've never seen one around where I live.
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trenchdigger
Oct 13, 2004, 4:28 PM
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In reply to: ...but it hurt like (*&^( .
Welcome to crack climbing.
Stiffer shoes can help alleviate the foot pain, but nothing comfortizes crack climbing more than honing technique. It just takes a little practice. And using your feet on a crack is just as important as good footwork on a steep face.
Enjoy!
~Adam~
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korporal
Oct 13, 2004, 4:41 PM
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I love crack. I find it to be so much easier than face or slab. It is a bit weird when you start but as you do it more you will learn different jamming techniques and it will become less strenous and less painfull. I agree with Euroford about jamming, however there are cracks that require smearing at least one foot.
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hoppinbig
Oct 13, 2004, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: How many of you have tried crack? And this climb was only rated a 5.9 finger crack! My god it felt like a 5.11! How many of you have tried crack?
there is nothing similar about a 5.9 sport climb and a 5.9 crack climb....
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sarcat
Oct 13, 2004, 4:42 PM
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In reply to: and rather than placing gear above you, where you want to jamb your hand, place gear at your waist or below after you have already used the jamb and moved onto the next one.
...but now your piece is were you want to put your foot. Go figure.....
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slablizard
Oct 13, 2004, 4:45 PM
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Not a big fan of cracks. Unfortunately it's almost all they sell around here.
:lol:
In reply to: How many of you have tried crack? I've been climbing for many years off and on, and so far have been able to avoid any serious finger crack climbs till this weekend. All the sport routes where busy I had my trad rack with me and I found this beautiful finger crack that was one pitch. I knew cracks where one of my weak points so I gave it a try. I was able to get half way up jamming my hands and pasting my feet on the sides, but I found it to be very different and very hard climbing compared to face and overhanging climbs etc. To make it worse It seems like the best places to stick gear is also the best place to jam too, so you have to really mess around sometimes trying to make things go. What a learning experince. And this climb was only rated a 5.9 finger crack! My god it felt like a 5.11! ahhaa. How many of you have tried crack? |
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euroford
Oct 13, 2004, 4:59 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: and rather than placing gear above you, where you want to jamb your hand, place gear at your waist or below after you have already used the jamb and moved onto the next one. ...but now your piece is were you want to put your foot. Go figure.....
lol, yeah i hate it when that happens!
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rendog
Oct 13, 2004, 5:30 PM
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a friend of mine once said:
"the higher your tolerance to pain, the better crack climber you can be"
'nuff said
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calamity_chk
Oct 13, 2004, 5:40 PM
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In reply to: a friend of mine once said: "the higher your tolerance to pain, the better crack climber you can be" 'nuff said
so THAT's why i suck at crack climbing!
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cracklover
Oct 13, 2004, 5:45 PM
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I love crack. But you knew that already. :)
In reply to: stick your foot in vertically, with your knee out to your side, then twist your leg until your knee is infront/below you so you can stand up on your foot.
Hmm, this technique is often advised for cracks from thin hand up to about wide fist, but the poster was talking about a finger crack. In my experience, 5.9 finger cracks are usually slabby enough that you're better off doing exactly what the poster said - smearing the feet on features on the face. The crack is typically too thin to get enough of your foot in to get an effective cam, and the face is slabby enough to get decent purchase on features. Of course, when the crack widens a bit, cam away!
GO
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petsfed
Oct 13, 2004, 5:59 PM
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In reply to: Great tips thanks, yeah I tried camming a toe into the rock but it was a really wierd crack was flared for like 5 inches on the outside then turned into a perfect fingers crack deeper in. My feet where hurting since I'm a heavy climber and I started to sort of get a toe into the crack, but it hurt like (*&^( .
With a heavy flare like that, you should be able to get a positive foot jam for one foot, while flagging and smearing with the other. Alternate which foot is in the crack with each move.
/jams in head seams.
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deleted
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Oct 13, 2004, 6:04 PM
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You know what I think is really crazy? Over hanging cracks like "Trench Warefare".
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gremlin
Oct 13, 2004, 7:53 PM
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I got on my first [semi]crack this past weekend. It was a 5.9, and shortly afterwards, regraded by my climbing partner to a 5.9f, for "fucking rediculously hard". That said, it was pretty darn fun, and it wasn't even really a tall crack or anything. I'm definitely gonna try to do more crack climbing. I was pretty cold when I started, and sweating with my shirt off by the time I finished.
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akicebum
Oct 13, 2004, 7:53 PM
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To jam or not to jam. My hard finger crack was serenity crack. My partner is a crack addict and he had me jamming the whole way. By the top of pitch two I had my shoes off and I was hanging so I would have to weight my feet. By the end of the week my toes were diggin in and lovin it.
Crack climbing hurts some, but damn it is fun. Whoever mentioned Trench warfare was right on, that thing is heinous. The feet look alright though :shock: .
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