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tn_traddie
Oct 13, 2004, 5:31 PM
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Anyone ever try double-slinging a BD camalot with spectra-tape or supertape? How did it work for you? I'd like to make the slings on them extendable/longer, but the hole for the sling to go through looks like it might be a bit too tight for the tape to slide through it easily if it is doubled-slung. Any help/advice will be appreciated!
:D
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ben87
Oct 13, 2004, 5:57 PM
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the new camalot looks much better suited to this. on the old version, I would say, yes, the hole is too small for that.
-Ben
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lordjim
Oct 13, 2004, 6:04 PM
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What about something like those 8mm mammut slings. Anyone think those would fit?
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chossmonkey
Oct 13, 2004, 6:12 PM
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The 8mm slings have a very short life (compared to most other slings) and would need to be replaced every year or two (maybe less) depending on wear.
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caughtinside
Oct 13, 2004, 6:15 PM
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Have you worn out any of the 8mms?
I've got two I use and the only sign of wear is that they're dirty. They've probably got about 80 pitches on them, give or take.
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euroford
Oct 13, 2004, 6:32 PM
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i've gotten good life out of my 8mm's. but i don't know anybody who can sew them for custom slings. as you might notice, the trick the 8mm slings is that they tapper wider at the backtacks.
i do think yates can do 10mm though. a doubled sling won't work on the old style camelots, but i would be all for it on the new ones.
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tn_traddie
Oct 13, 2004, 6:43 PM
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If they are too small for tape, is there a cordage that would work? Any suggestions?
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chico
Oct 13, 2004, 6:51 PM
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You could try using Maxim 5mm Tech cord.
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jebel_andi
Oct 13, 2004, 7:05 PM
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could you have them sent off to a company like rock empire to have them reslung because they will resling there cams with dubled spectra slings. i would do my cams myself but i don't want a knot in the slings.
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tn_traddie
Oct 13, 2004, 7:07 PM
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I have emailed both Yates and Mountain Tools with this question earlier this morning and am waiting on them to reply....let you know if I hear from them.
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aulwes
Oct 13, 2004, 7:57 PM
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In reply to: You could try using Maxim 5mm Tech cord. |
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tn_traddie
Oct 13, 2004, 9:39 PM
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Here two articles on testing webbing, spectra and cords....what do you think of using them to sling cams?
http://www.amga.com/ComparativeStrengthTest.pdf
http://www.mountaineers.org/climbing/Reference/Cordelette.html
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tn_traddie
Oct 13, 2004, 9:51 PM
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Here is the reply from Mountain Tools....
"Camalots cannot be double slung with any material regardless of size or configuration. The relatively sharp edges on the eye of the tail piece compromises the strength of the material in this configuration (where it wraps around the edge) and it will not meet the prescribed minimum.
Best and safe climbing."
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tn_traddie
Oct 13, 2004, 10:51 PM
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Just talked with Black Diamond on the phone and they will NOT double sling a Camalot. He said that their tests show it isn't safe to double-sling a Camalot using any type of cord or webbing. Apparently the small hole size in the stem makes the webbing/cord overlap and bind which can cause failure in the material during a fall. Oh well, it sounded like a great idea! :(
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david.yount
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Oct 14, 2004, 4:10 AM
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In reply to: Have you worn out any of the 8mms? I've got two I use and the only sign of wear is that they're dirty. They've probably got about 80 pitches on them, give or take.
I've easily 400 pitches on my Mammut 8mm slings, and dozens of miles of approach while wearing harness and gear and slings exposed -- I observe no significant wear on the slings. They are slightly superficially fuzzed.
I'd like to purchase a used Mammut 8mm sling that somebody deems worthy of retirement due to normal wear and tear. Really.
david yount.
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david.yount
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Oct 14, 2004, 6:05 AM
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In reply to: I know a rep from BD and he told me that they tested a bunch of the 8mm slings. The ones that were "superficially fuzzed" failed at noticeably lower loads. They are super strong to begin with so they are still probably stonger than most gear. Unless you are doing something super extreme where extra bulk and 1 extra gram matters, why not use something more durable when a small amount of extra bulk is not much of an issue?
I appreciate this information you are sharing, mr anonymous. I would dearly appreciate the opportunity to call and talk casually with your friend at BD. I'd loose these death slings in a New York second if I believed they were significantly less safe than pre-existing alternatives.
david yount.
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euroford
Oct 14, 2004, 12:21 PM
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an anonymous person claims a manufacturers research proves anothers product to be unsafe..... yeah, i always believe that over the internet.
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tn_traddie
Oct 14, 2004, 9:45 PM
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Yates Gear emailed me back and said only single loop runners will work on the BD camalots.....Fish Gear said the same.
Here is a copy of my email to BD and their reply
Hi,
I want to double sling my BD Camalots (put two loops through the stem to make an extendable length runner). The hole in the stem is fairly small and I wonder if this is possible/safe. If so, what is the best webbing or cord to use in this application? Would 8mm Dyneema work?
Thanks,
John
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Hey John-
Thanks for taking the time to write. It is probably possible, however, with the testing that has been done it has been decided to be unsafe by Black Diamond. I wouldn't recommend trying to retro-fit your cams with extendable runners. I hope this info helps. Have a great morning. Thanks again.
Best Regards,
Mike D
Black Diamond
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glowering
Oct 14, 2004, 9:53 PM
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What a bummer I was planning on having this done. Thanks for sharing the info so I didn't send them in and find out later it wouldn't work.
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tn_traddie
Oct 14, 2004, 10:02 PM
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Yeah, I'm pretty bummed myself. I have seen others with different brands of cams use this setup and it looked so sweet! I wish I could afford the new BD C4 Camalots.....looks like this would work on them just fine! Oh well....looks like I'll still be carrying runners over my shoulder as usual.
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youreup
Oct 14, 2004, 10:09 PM
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Why now sew or tie a runner to the existing sling? You can still rack by clipping into the existing loop and if you want to extend it, clip into the 2nd loop.
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aulwes
Oct 14, 2004, 10:23 PM
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What about two sew loops sewn together similar to the metolius personal anchor system. That way you can clip into the first or second loop depending on the length you desire.
Or you could always girth hitch a 24" or 48" sling to the short sling, but that would reduce the strength to some degree. :roll:
Or you can still clip into the existing loop with a light biner.
Or there are many other ways to extend the slings on your placements.
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drector
Oct 16, 2004, 12:42 AM
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In reply to: What about two sew loops sewn together similar to the metolius personal anchor system. That way you can clip into the first or second loop depending on the length you desire. Or you could always girth hitch a 24" or 48" sling to the short sling, but that would reduce the strength to some degree. :roll: Or you can still clip into the existing loop with a light biner. Or there are many other ways to extend the slings on your placements.
Mountain Tools says they'll do this (personnal anchor system style) for me and they've done it before. They cost more and there are some drawbacks that they mentioned such as the possibility of the second loop catching on the cam lobes if the loop is too large.
This sounds like a good option if the extra bulk is not a problem.
Dave
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euroford
Oct 16, 2004, 1:02 AM
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this made me think:
why not sew a 24" dynema runner onto the cam, then you could thread the biner through the clip in loop to tripple the runner just like a trad draw.
i just tried this on a dmm, unfortunatly i couldn't slip even a neutrino through the clip in loop. maybe better luck with the c4's?
that would be sweet. cams racked like normal, you'd only need half the trad draws/quickdraws (enough to satisfy your nutplacements) and it would be significantly less messing around during placements.
hey, it would work just fine. i just tried it by girth hitching a mammut 8mm sling to a dmm. you slip the runner through, then clip the binner through all parts of the runner if you can imagine what i'm talking about.
i'm a frickin genious
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david.yount
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Oct 16, 2004, 2:08 AM
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hmmm, not sure if you are responding to the original thread?
he's got camalots. the BD's he's got are not the new ones, so new that nobody got 'em. and they're not the old ones, those with double stem, a U-stem.
his camalots don't have room to place three webbings through the metal eye. your idea will not work with his camalots, won't help him with his 'problems.'
besides, BD replied to him directly warning against placing two webbings through the eye in an extensible configuration.
david yount.
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