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eyecannon
Sep 28, 2004, 6:12 AM
Post #27 of 30
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Registered: May 4, 2004
Posts: 517
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I agree some Superfly's with 24" dyneema would be uber-light.
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david.yount
Deleted
Oct 21, 2004, 2:42 PM
Post #28 of 30
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I don't carry any stiffly sewn short runners, most commonly called as quickdraws, many leaders do carry quickdraws.
why i don't, two reasons:
your 5-inch quickdraws are not long enough for my preference (the placement may be jeopardized when i climb past it or it may be jeopardized later when i take a fall several pieces above it or the resulting rope drag will decrease my safety higher up), and,
quickdraws are stiff so they transmit the rope's movement to the placement (which may jeopardize the placement).
8mm mammut single and double length runners with trango superlight or wild country helium biners, that's my solid preference. i carry a great many runners so saving weight is a priority.
except, these super light biners don't inspire confidence when they rest in some awkward way. sometimes a biner interacts with the rock's features, and i always change the biner's location. but sometimes, it's rare, but sometimes i can't relocate the biner even though it's getting funked up by rock features. in these situations i swap out the super light biner and put a more robust biner in it's place.
i think most climbers that started by clipping bolts, use their quickdraws initially and then as money and experience grow they buy more full length runners.
if cars came without seatbelts and belts were not required by law, most people would by the car and then maybe buy the belt. i would rather see people buy a belt and then buy a car.
i think it would be best if these transitioning leaders purchased 2 doubles and 6 singles before they purchased any pro. idealistic? yes. my opinion and nothing else? yes again.
david yount.
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davidio
Oct 21, 2004, 3:37 PM
Post #29 of 30
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Registered: Aug 19, 2004
Posts: 36
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not too much to add to the thread, i prefer skinny slings (yep, the Mammut ones) and wiregates (Mammut is making some light ones of those too, neutrinos are also slick, sometimes the cheaper omegas, i'm not too picky) for the majority of my placements. i carry a half dozen of those, and a half dozen mobius draws. "Mobius Draws?" you ask?
http://www.mtntools.com/...mt/web/mt_mobius.htm
They are pretty nice in the shorter size, they rack really cleanly on the harness, quick to extend. They're nice when you really don't need (or want) the full extension of a 24" sling, but are much more versatile than a standard draw. I like them a bunch, but maybe i just think they're keen because they are sewn with a twist. I also always have a few double runners on my person for slinging something big or for clipping the only placement you can see for 40 feet that just happens to be 10 feet off route.
I own a half dozen sporty quick draws that have been sitting in my basement for years. extendability and versatility are the names of the game when it comes to clipping trad gear.
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euroford
Oct 21, 2004, 3:57 PM
Post #30 of 30
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Registered: Aug 26, 2002
Posts: 2913
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i think those mobious slings are a bad idea. doubling runners and then extending them can cause cross loading of biners as it leaves an extra loop around the pro end biner. tripling the runners is much easier, and safer, and doesn't require a specially sewn runner.
i usually carry six draws with me along with my trippled trad draws. i find they are nice, fast and easy. i do however use the long (8") and very floppy nylon quickdraw dogbones made by REI.
many quickdraw slings, such as the petzl's and bd's i find are sewn stiffly and inapropriote for trad. i've had great experiences thus far with the REI slings though. and they are dirt cheap (like under $2 each), so picking up some of those would be a great way to quickly convert your stiff sport draws to more trad friendly quickdraws.
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