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climbandride
Oct 22, 2004, 8:02 PM
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Unfortunately, my nearly 6 month old Anasazis have gone right through the toe. I've tried on the Mad Rock Locos and climbed a bit in them, but am wondering if anyone has taken the leap to really try these new shoes. How do they hold up? Any major issues or flaws with the design?So far, I've heard mixed reviews about the company, but since they're NW based, I'd like to support the local companies! Anysuggestions? I need another high performance shoe that will last a bit longer than 6 mos!
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treyfrancisclimbs
Oct 22, 2004, 8:13 PM
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i bought the flash as my first real climbing shoe because it was cheap and i didn't know how to use them right anyway. after a year and a half and a resole, they are stretching out a bit, but i still use them every time i go climbing at least to warm up. i am thinking about getting a different model, but i am going to wait until november when their new stuff hits the store.
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steamboatclimber
Oct 22, 2004, 8:27 PM
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I have a pair that I have been climbing on for about 6 months and they are holding up ok. From what I have heard it was some of their very first productions that were just falling apart. If you do a search the Madrock duribility issure has been beat to death.
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tuna
Oct 22, 2004, 8:59 PM
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watched a guy send 7c at Fontainbleau wearing old Mad Rock almost blown out pair of I have no idea models.
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reno
Oct 22, 2004, 9:36 PM
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Got the Phoenix model of Mad Rocks.
Comfortable, good fit, low price, and they smear/jam well (good friction.)
They make a farting noise when I lift and lower my heel (Yes, it's actually my shoes!), they don't edge as well as other shoes I've worn, and they turned my feet yellow.
I'm satisfied.
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crazyfingers
Oct 22, 2004, 9:45 PM
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got a pair of the mugens as well as their orange counter parts know as flash. They are really sticky. Soft rubber seems to wear out a bit quicker... had my first pair blow up. For the price, they do the job.
KT
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korntera
Oct 22, 2004, 9:45 PM
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NW based? Mad rocks, if i remember correctly are mad in france or italy or something. However, the mad rock importer, climb max(if you live in portland like i do) or Pagean gear(their internet seller name) is in the NW so maybe that is what you are thinking of. But like i said, they are not made in the U.S. only imported by a company in the NW(which is luckily my local climbing shop!) If i am wrong please correct me on this.
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fallenfreesoloist
Oct 22, 2004, 10:01 PM
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i got the hookers and theyre great. the side lacing system is super comfy and theyre rubber is the stickiest ive found. wear out faster than most though. but like i said-if u want super sticky-get em-and at this cost u can afoord to buy them a little more often. go for it
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blather
Oct 22, 2004, 10:47 PM
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I've both the hooker zips and the locos. I'm a believer.
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dlh
Oct 22, 2004, 10:50 PM
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I have the black madrock slippers.
They kick ass.
They edge really well and the rubber feels pretty grippy to me.
As far as durability, they seem to be holding up just fine.
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michaelmay513
Oct 22, 2004, 10:51 PM
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I have the hooker zip and the mugen, the only bad thing I can say is the rubber wears out way to fast.
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olejeff
Oct 22, 2004, 10:53 PM
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I've got the Madrock Flash. Nice shoes. Not cheap at all. Seem be as well made as any. Very affordable. Bought mine a little large though. They seem to stretch lots, so buy them tight.
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oklahoma
Oct 22, 2004, 10:58 PM
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resole
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bandidopeco
Oct 22, 2004, 11:23 PM
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I've had a pair of hooker laces for about a year and a half and love em. At first they wore out really quickly and the rubber failed (ie tore) at the density transition, but i sent them back and they resoled them for free. The resole was much better because they changed the design and the rubber a little to make them more durable. Since then I have been climbing on them pretty frequently and havn't had any probs.
I have not yet climbed in the locos or fanatics, but i might get a pair of the latter because they felt great and would be a better crack shoe since the hookers are very soft.
FYI, Madrock is owned by a Korean guy named Young Chue (Sp) who used to make the shoes for 5-10 (that's why they're similar) but had a falling out there with the boss, so he left to start his own comp. They have a factory in China now, which is one of the reasons why they are so cheap.
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opheliaascending
Oct 25, 2004, 11:22 PM
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In reply to: Got the Phoenix model of Mad Rocks. Comfortable, good fit, low price, and they smear/jam well (good friction.) They make a farting noise when I lift and lower my heel (Yes, it's actually my shoes!), they don't edge as well as other shoes I've worn, and they turned my feet yellow. I'm satisfied.
I gotta show this to my partner. He doesn't believe me when I tell him it's the shoes.
:roll:
I am not alone.
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fenix83
Moderator
Oct 26, 2004, 12:10 AM
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I own a pair of Mad Rock Flash and love them... have been using them for about a year and they have barely stretched at all. Comfortable, great rubber, great fit.
$.02
-F
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daryl314
Oct 26, 2004, 12:20 AM
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I agree with just resoling your anasazis. I have a resole job from Rock and Resole that's lasted a year on my velcros. I had a pair of hooker zips, and I found that they pale in comparison to the velcros. The outer rim of rubber on the dual layer sole rolled off edges that the anasazis would stick to.
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bamaclimber
Oct 26, 2004, 2:43 AM
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Registered: Oct 18, 2004
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I've got my mad rock locos comin tomorrow. Can't wait. I hope I didn't make a mistake by getting a size smaller??? Can someone varify weather or not to get a size smaller or the actual size of your foot?
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lordjim
Oct 26, 2004, 2:52 AM
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your feet will be killing you. I went up a half size when I got mine and I can only wear them for a problem. They come off as soon as I'm done. I can hobble to the edge of my pad and pull them off super quick.
but you may have a higher tolerance for pain than me.
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jimmylegs
Oct 26, 2004, 4:06 AM
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Had a pair of Hookers (lace). Performed well but blew a hole in the sole after only 3 months. (Photo here.)
Also the top is made of black rubber which gets extremely hot out in the sun. Good price though.
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cacti-tro
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Oct 26, 2004, 5:43 AM
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i had a pair of the Phoenix, lasted about 9 months, and then i bought the locos and i love them both. locos are only good on super steep obviously. my friend has the mugens and he cut off the ribs on the heel to reveal a super sticky rubber underneath...but dont cut it too thin.
...and the pheonix do fart alot!!!!!!
i just got the venoms after i had the muiras too...great shoes...
Tro
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coldclimb
Oct 26, 2004, 6:09 AM
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I love my mad rock hooker zips more than any shoe I've worn. I'll vouch for them any day, regardless of popular opinion.
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neeshman
Oct 26, 2004, 9:26 AM
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Registered: Apr 12, 2002
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I have a pair the of Phoenixs' and they have been great for over a year. Although like eveyone has said the soles do wear out pretty quick, but that obviously depends on how rough you are on them. I say consider theMad Rocks just as much as any other company.
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danpayne
Oct 26, 2004, 9:41 AM
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Registered: Sep 17, 2004
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I dunno about those madrocks,
You should check out ebay for some great deals on Nike Climbing shoes, Oh! they also have a great pair of Ralph Lauren Climbing shoes on there.
On a serious note, get the mad rocks, mine are good, and affordable.
Get em at REI, beat the hell and out em, and they'll still take them back.
(please note this is not an ethic, just an elaboration on a guarentee) :D :D
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