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bellatoris
Oct 28, 2004, 6:08 PM
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If I were to take a 3 week roadtrip trip that started at the Red where would you recommend I visit? I love steep stuff, especially trad, and don't mind jumping around to get on new stone. Any must do routes or local beta would also really be appreciated.
Thanks
Ascanio
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sawdust
Oct 28, 2004, 6:21 PM
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T-Wall
Sunset
Both in Chattanooga, TN area.
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brianinslc
Oct 28, 2004, 6:22 PM
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In reply to: If I were to take a 3 week roadtrip trip that started at the Red where would you recommend I visit? I love steep stuff, especially trad, and don't mind jumping around to get on new stone. Any must do routes or local beta would also really be appreciated.
In my somewhat limited (and therefore biased) opinion...
Old Rag in VA is worth a day or two. Bit of a hike in, but, worth it.
Coopers Rock in WV. Small area, but, gritstone is pretty cool to climb on.
Annapolis in MD. Nice hike to get to, huge roofs, neat rock, nice views. Worth a day.
New River Gorge. But of course.
Stone Mountain in NC. Outstanding.
Looking Glass in NC. Ditto the above.
Moores Wall in NC. Fun for a day or two, to be sure. Steep, neat rock.
Table Rock in NC. Ditto the above.
Seneca in WV. For such a small area, huge number of routes.
I hear tell T Wall in TN is good (headin' there soon...).
Brian in SLC
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feanor007
Oct 28, 2004, 6:27 PM
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i think 3 weeks in the red sounds good, plus you save gas. If you like steep, there's reallly no reason to leave...ever
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bumblie
Oct 28, 2004, 6:47 PM
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When are you planning to do this trip?
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microbarn
Oct 28, 2004, 6:51 PM
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In reply to: In my somewhat limited (and therefore biased) opinion...
Your list is not very south. There aren't any climbs south of TN?
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dharmacase
Oct 28, 2004, 6:52 PM
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if you are anywhere near mississippi you should visit tishomingo state park there is some cool sandstone with awsome roof cracks.
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reno
Oct 28, 2004, 7:21 PM
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Tallulah Gorge, Georgia.
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floridaputz
Oct 28, 2004, 7:28 PM
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I've climbed at a lot of the major destinations on the East Coast. If I could do the trip you're talking about, here is how it would go. Red River Gorge, New River Gorge, Seneca, T-wall TN, Stone Mt NC, Looking Glass NC, Whitesides NC, Tulluah gorge GA.
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j_ung
Oct 28, 2004, 7:31 PM
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Speaking purely from a North Carolina perspective, if you want steep trad, then you really do need to visit Hawksbill. It's got several very rad trad lines on bullet-hard, squeeky clean stone.
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=110
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cammaniac
Oct 28, 2004, 7:36 PM
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It may not be trad, but Foster Falls, TN has some great steep sport routes. If you hit T-wall, you should check out Foster's to mix it up a bit.
Looking Glass in NC is fan-freakin-tastic!!!!
Tallulah Gorge in NE Georgia is also well worth the visit.
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roambb1
Oct 28, 2004, 7:40 PM
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In the South, visit (areas in no particular order):
Climbs listed are great Trad lines, grades may not be exact, but the climbs are exceptional
T-Wall (Chattanooga): Finger Lockin Good 10c(?) (Golden Locks 8 or 9)among a ton of others
Lost Wall (LaFayette GA): near Rocktown (Prevailing Winds 11.b/c). Black Pig (9)
(This is a short crag, not as good as the others listed)
Looking Glass (Brevard, NC): Sundial Crack 8, the Nose 8, Cornflake Crack (10+-11 ?)
The New River Gorge: Leave it to Jesus (11.c), Supercrack (9+) Fantasy (8) and tons of other possibilities
Old Rag (Granite): near Shenandoah NP (Oh My God Dihedral 10)
Seneca Rocks (Seneca WV): Lots to do, great exposeure for the east (many routes are sandbaggged)
Tallulah Gorge (NE GA near Clayton GA) Flying Frog (10?) Punk Wave (10?)
Mt. Yonah (Cleveland GA) Granite like slabs on a big face with good altitude and views. Climbing here is not spectacular, but good if you are near.
The Chattanooga Tennessee Area has a ton of sandstone crags in the vicinity. The sandstone "belt" goes from TN into NW GA, and into NE Alabama. Lots of good stuff here.
For Granite, hit up NC (Looking Glass), or NE GA
The Dixie Cragger's Atlas would be a good purchase if you intend to climb in GA, TN, and AL.
Hope this helps
Take Care
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jon
Oct 28, 2004, 8:15 PM
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steep trad = shortoff
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cammaniac
Oct 28, 2004, 8:50 PM
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I totally forgot about Linville Gorge. I would recommend Linville Gorge as some of the best climbing in the south due to its remote nature, lack of crowds, long routes and did I say long routes. Other than Whitesides, I don't think it gets any longer than Linville, especially the Shortoff area. Someone correct me I'm wrong.
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superdiamonddave
Oct 28, 2004, 9:22 PM
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If you don't stop through Oklahoma and hit the Wichita Mountains and Quartz Mountain, you'll kick yourself later...Good granite!
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oklahoma_climber
Oct 28, 2004, 11:09 PM
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In reply to: If you don't stop through Oklahoma and hit the Wichita Mountains and Quartz Mountain, you'll kick yourself later...Good granite!
That's a LONG trip. However if you are going from TN to oklahoma, then yes, you should definitely make the stop in the wichitas. On your way, be sure to hit up northwest AR as a good half way between TN and OK. Since these two states are my stomping grounds, here's the skinny as best i know:
Wichita Mountain Wildlife Refuge: Lawton, OK; Granite, Trad, 1-3 pitches.
Chandler Park: Tulsa, OK; limestone, bouldering/TR
Horseshoe Canyon Ranch: Jasper, AR; Sandstone, Trad/Sport/Bouldering (my favorite)
Other places in AR that I have not yet visited: Sam's Throne, Mt. Magazine, Lake Dardenelle.
Again, this is going the opposite direction of the earlier posts, but from my limited knowledge, is no less worthy a list.
Also, a note for the flamer above, the reason there's not many listing for states south of TN is that most of Louisianna, Mississippi, Alabama, 1/2 of Arkansas, and much of South Georgia are in the coastal plain where there aren't any worthy crags. True, GA and Alabama boast some legendary bouldering spots, but they're fairly spread out in comparison to Tennessee, NC, West VA etc.
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bellatoris
Oct 28, 2004, 11:27 PM
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Can't thank you guys enough for all the details. I'll copy and print the list for sure. As for the trip I plan on being there for most of November. And while it will be hard to pull away from the Red, I would like to see that part of the country and climb on as much different rock as possible. The thrill and adventure of climbing at new areas on new rock always gets me psyched. Every area has a flavor and charm of its own and I won't want to miss any of the main areas.
Thanks again for all the great info. Keep it coming cause I'll keep checking!
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braaaaaaaadley
Oct 29, 2004, 12:48 AM
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Heres the best of what I have expierenced:
Lynville gorge: worth a couple days
Ship rock: a day here is well spent, but weather is hard to coordinate
The new: (nuff said) worth a while
Seneca: My favorite, huge number of excellent routes; great exposure.
Old Rag: def worth a day or two; it's a hike, but it holds some extremely classic lines.
Good luck and have fun!
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bumblie
Oct 29, 2004, 12:03 PM
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Although it's sport, you should check out The Obed. If you can climb 5.12 sport, then Tieranny and Y12 walls are must dos.
For sunny steep trad, T-wall is your best bet. I'd pass on hitting VA or WV. The weather is too hit or miss in November.
For NC climbing, I'd go with Stone, Rumbling Bald or Looking Glass. If it's warm, Moores and Linville Gorge are worthwhile.
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clarki
Oct 29, 2004, 12:36 PM
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If you want steep trad lines in the Southeast then Moores Wall is THE place to go!!!
John
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cammaniac
Oct 29, 2004, 1:24 PM
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Moores Wall is OK, but I definately wouldn't rank it over Linville or T-wall.
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bellatoris
Oct 29, 2004, 4:55 PM
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http://img87.exs.cx/...8/steveonroof201.jpg
Yeah....now that's what I'm talking about! See those sweet horizontal incut jugs? That's what I am looking for, cause over here they all go straight up! What's the deal with pro in general; runout, bomber, sketchy? And anyone know what guidebooks I should get my mitts on? One's that cover the classics at a number of different crags would probably be fine. Once I get an idea of rocktype and quality things will become pretty clear. And what about Arkansas? Just read a review of Sam's and that place looks sick. And if any of y'all ever come out this way to climb and need anything pm me. Yose, Bishop and Josh are just a few hours from my humble little abode.
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joshy8200
Oct 29, 2004, 5:29 PM
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Shortoff, Hawksbill, Ship Rock, Moore's Wall....if you're looking for steep trad NC is where it's at. All of this places have crazy steep trad with excellent protection in horizontals. The lines even range for intense pumpfest 5.11 to casual juggy 5.6.
Short Off: Dopey Duck 5.9, Maginot Line 5.7, Pinball Wizard 5.11, Built to Tilt
Hawksbill: Encore 5.11, Fatlady 5.11, Lost in Space 5.10b
Ship Rock: Harpoon 5.10, Lin Cove Lullaby 5.10, Welcome to Watagua 5.10d, Edge of a Dream 5.8, Board Walk 5.8
Moore's Wall: Wailing Wall 5.6, Golden Earring 5.7, Zoo View 5.7, Air Show 5.8, Welcome to Moore's 5.10d, Bimbo's Bulge 5.10d
There are tons of other classics that I missed. I just started typing down the fist things that came to mind that I could think of. But seriously if you want some steep moderate stuff...cragging at Moore's and Ship Rock could be well worth your time. And if you're ready to get ill for some remote adventure trad...Short Off is the place for you.
These places aren't the best for winter climbing...especially Hawksbill and Ship Rock (Ship Rock is above 4000ft elevation).
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