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fixednut
Oct 26, 2004, 10:13 PM
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In reply to: Just be happy w/ the way you are. Plastic surgery is costly and dangerous.
Well said.
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climberpunk
Oct 26, 2004, 10:21 PM
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Well, I started climbing in the seventies with a handfull of stoppers, three hexes, a hemp rope and 60 foot run outs. We all know I'm tough.
but seriously, you're probably fine on the cams, id spend the money on a second full set of nuts, and try to set as many of those as possible. Its lighter, more efficient $$$ wise, and an important skill to learn early. Maybe get a different set of nuts for the second [OP tri-nuts or scallop or offsets or something]
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alberta_climberboy
Oct 26, 2004, 10:36 PM
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I would love to have a rack as large as his!
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maculated
Oct 26, 2004, 10:37 PM
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If you have a training gear sling, you might need a rack enhancement.
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mattm
Oct 26, 2004, 11:11 PM
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In reply to: mattm, you've got good suggestions (and some great NE classics under your belt), but I believe the original poster is just starting out with trad. I doubt, and not offense to jebel, that he'll be hitting the Book or the Beast just yet. He'll probably have figured his rack by the time he's ready to lead them.
Doh - you are correct - I think I just read Cathedral, Rack and suggestions and got all giddy. Man that place was AWESOME.
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dirtineye
Oct 26, 2004, 11:14 PM
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Wow you got some good advice.
All I would add is, pay the most attention to the people who steted that they have climbed in the ares you will be climbing in. It's hard to argue with a group of folks telling you they have climbed there and needed gear x,y, and z. Guides usually have this area rack thing doen pat.
The recommendations for more slings and longer slings (and possibly losing the sport draws for trad) are good for any area where you have long runouts and wandering routes. Extra slings come in handy and they are light. Having a few extra biners is a good thing too cause you never know when you or your partner will drop one.
A small but good thing to know is, if a route you want to do requires a particular piece of gear and you don't have it, get it. For example, P4 of the OR at Whitesides NC takes a 3.5 friend or a 3 Camelsnot (I'm thinking the number 5 Tri-cam will work there, but nobody seems to have one nor would they want to use it, LOL) to protect the start of the crux. IF you ever get there without one of those, you'll be sorry! Again your guide friends will be all over that stuff, so use their expertise.
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jebel_andi
Oct 27, 2004, 9:14 PM
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In reply to: If you have a training gear sling, you might need a rack enhancement.
good one :D
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the_pirate
Oct 27, 2004, 9:53 PM
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In reply to: I think I will get dubles of the bd cams and get some more slings for trad draws before I rock on over to cannon (I know there isn't much fixed pro there unlike cathedral and white horse).
The rack you describe is not that different from what I would carry in NH (slings excluded). Get a second set of nuts for the finger cracks (cheapest of your gear options btw) and learn to use your hexes properly. That way you won't need to spend money on double sets of cams.
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johnnyrambo9er
Oct 27, 2004, 10:46 PM
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If you run out of pieces (YES)!!!!! Or you could just ask your girlfriend about the size of her previous (climbing) partners!
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fixednut
Oct 27, 2004, 10:49 PM
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So, are we or are we not talking about man-boobs here?
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xcmntgeek
Oct 27, 2004, 11:08 PM
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I would recomend posting a picture of your rack so we can make sure you're not lying, you know what happens on the internet. Any other female climber is welcome to participate as well....
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mmckinney
Oct 29, 2004, 5:47 PM
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your rack is always too small!
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dharmacase
Oct 29, 2004, 6:21 PM
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If you are a beginning leader your rack should definatley suffice on cathedral and whitehorse. the beginners route on whitehorse is mostly bolts albiet a little run out (5.5) You should also check out Funhouse (5.7), toe crack (5.7+), and kiddie crack on cathedral. Stay away from thin air, unless you like the summer traffic jams of north conway, on cathedral.
the tricams will be usefull on white horse as the pockets are sometimes the only things that protect the slabs. If you dont have much anchor building expierence then stick to the climbs that either have double bolt anchors, fixed pins or tree belays. LEARN TO EQUALIZE ANCHORS. it cannot be stressed enough. double up on your nuts as the granite up there has great constrictions. Look out for pin theives. If you go to cannon you will probally do either moby grape or whitney-gilman. both easy but longer routes. You will have to build anchors. Get bd's# .4,.5,.75, 1, 2, 3.
and once again mo' nuts.
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cracklover
Oct 29, 2004, 7:12 PM
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Dharmacase made some excellent route suggestions, but I must disagree with this one suggestion:
In reply to: If you dont have much anchor building expierence then stick to the climbs that either have double bolt anchors, fixed pins or tree belays.
Trees fall over, bolts on trad climbs get chopped, pins fall out, fixed slings get tattered and torn. If you do not feel confident in your ability to create solid gear-based anchors, do not climb multi-pitch trad lines. Seriously, you could wind up in a world of trouble. Or, as dharmacase then said:
In reply to: LEARN TO EQUALIZE ANCHORS. it cannot be stressed enough.
You should be functionally proficient in this skill before you leave the ground on any multipitch trad climb.
GO
P.S. - sorry for the thread drift.
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bandycoot
Oct 29, 2004, 7:29 PM
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Doubles aren't necessary for climbing. I lead single and multipitch with a full set of metolius cams, 5 metolius hexes, and a set of metolius nuts for quite a long time. As I moved to harder cracks with sustained sections that are the same size I needed doubles and rarely triples.
That said, rack size is inversely proportional to two things:
1. Confidence in ability to climb a specific crack
2. Experience
Due to #1, if you find a short easy crack you have more than enough gear to lead it safely (if you know how).
Josh
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trapdoor
Oct 30, 2004, 6:11 AM
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I'd be willing to lead with the gear you have. But you cluld get a second #1 camalot, i feel like i always use that piece.
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esallen
Nov 1, 2004, 12:42 AM
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It seems like if you have the money, it's always better to be over-prepared. I started leading with about the same amount of gear as you, but I still purchased a cam or two a month until I felt like I had more than enough gear for most of the routes in my area.
In addition to financial constraints, one should also consider the length and difficulty of the route he or she intends to climb. You can safely do a 10 pitch 5.5 probably with nothing more than a set of chocks. However, if you are pushing your limits while leading a long 5.11 crack system or something, you will want to place gear frequently.
Living in Utah, I'm not at all familiar with the routes in your area, but I know that if you took a trip to Indian Creek, City of Rocks, Little Cottonwood, Wallstreet or someplace like that, your rack would probably be considered inadequate by most people's standard. It sounds like your rack is pretty great for most the routes in your area.
You know the climbs you like to do. You can study up on them in your guidebook and know what routes are safely climbable with the gear you have, and which routes you will have to dig up some more SLCDs for. Creating a "good rack" is a completely subjective matter.
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jaybro
Mar 26, 2005, 10:24 PM
Post #43 of 48
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Jeb
as I'm sure you know by now, that rack is a good starting point. Racks vary by areas. You'll have partners, you'll learn what else you need in your area. Mainly just get out there and climb.
I own over a hundred cams, many types in many sizes, yet, when I climb at indian Creek I'm always borrowing.
Jay-started climbing before the seventies,before nuts (imagine 13 yr olds pounding pins on desperate 5.6's) but post hemp (for ropes anyway) but gear is just a tool, use it, don't be it-bro
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lucas_timmer
Mar 26, 2005, 11:11 PM
Post #44 of 48
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In reply to: "All big gear does is feed big egos."
"All big gear does is feed big egos." -Jay Young-
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tanner
Mar 27, 2005, 1:37 AM
Post #45 of 48
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loose the hexes and the tricams and all the sport draws and you set for most routes
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kpj240789
Mar 27, 2005, 2:03 AM
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Are you retarted? How the hell do you edit a smiley face twice.
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lucas_timmer
Mar 27, 2005, 2:10 PM
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In reply to: Are you retarted? How the hell do you edit a smiley face twice. |
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jackhammer
Mar 27, 2005, 2:26 PM
Post #48 of 48
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Posts: 255
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It is fine.
I lead Trad, and my rack is still smaller than you...in fact, I'm kind of getting a little rack envy. :(
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