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dbrayack
Nov 7, 2004, 4:31 PM
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Just a beta question, I was getting my butt kicked on Control, How do you do the LONG move on control after the 4th? bolt? THanks, Dan. Oh and you can skirt the crux by going over the shuts on the route to the right and traverse back, but this did not seem to be the way to do it.
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leaverbiner
Nov 8, 2004, 1:48 PM
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Dan - I believe that in fact the intended line is going to the ledge to the right, resting and then pulling through. At least that is how I was instructed to do it. I can't remember the individual moves enough to let you know, but I will look at it when I am down there next and see if I can help you out at all. I get Control and Chaos confused, which is which? One is like hard 11 the other easy 12 right?
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dew4theq
Nov 8, 2004, 2:25 PM
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As far as I know, going over to the ledge is the intended line.
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dbrayack
Nov 8, 2004, 8:25 PM
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To the right of bourbon sauce (11d or 12a depending on which guide) is control, at 12a, and next to that is chaos at 12c, by skirting the long move on control, you are about 4 feet right of the bolt, however, you are right at the shuts of chaos....."you could certainly clip them if you chose" It just seems like a really really hard move for 12a, though none of the other moves on the route are 12a, shrug... I think that I would feel guilty skirting that hard move, but if thats the beta, then I'll take a gimme 12. thanks for the replies guys, your awesome!! :) -Dan
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leaverbiner
Nov 8, 2004, 8:48 PM
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your info. refreshes my recolection - I say this because I found it funny that the 12a climbed further than the harder 12c . . what I was told by numerous people was that in fact control did go to the ledge and then up. Agreed, not dificult for 12a. i guess that is why I thoght it was more likea hard 11. I don't remember Chaos being too stiff for the grade either, but it has probably been a year and a half or mor since I've been on either one.
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send513
Nov 8, 2004, 9:27 PM
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I have seen Control done straight up, but its a really big dyno (for anyone Leaver, not just me :-) ) and the dyno makes the straight up more like 12c instead of the 12a its usually given. If you want to do the long move without skirting to the anchors on Chaos... put on your jumping hat and toss left handed. Your feet will cut and its a big dyno, but it goes. The traditional route is to traverse to the right onto Choas and back again. Odd, but o well... KK
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dbrayack
Nov 9, 2004, 1:22 AM
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Yeah, I took a few good whips off doing that move, it really is pretty runout if you set loose for the dyno "that is how i was doing it, throwing all points".
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dbrayack
Nov 9, 2004, 6:57 PM
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Here's what happens if you blow it:
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dbrayack
Nov 17, 2004, 1:56 PM
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Definitely much easier to skirt the long move, definitely a good 12 if you are looking for a first 12 RP, short crux that's low, safe lead etc etc....
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