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olipab
Nov 15, 2004, 8:19 PM
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Hi,
ive done quite alot of top roping and im climbing about (UK) 6A. but i would like to try trad climbing, and ive got a few of questions.
Firstly, if you lead a route and you get half-way up and you just cant get any further and your trad climbing, how do you get back down again safely?
Also if you do a climb and get to the top and you have to abseil down, once your at the bottom how do you get your rope down?
and what kind of quickdraws are best for a novice sport climber?
Thanks alot
Oli.
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fear
Nov 16, 2004, 12:01 AM
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In reply to: Hi, Firstly, if you lead a route and you get half-way up and you just cant get any further and your trad climbing, how do you get back down again safely? Also if you do a climb and get to the top and you have to abseil down, once your at the bottom how do you get your rope down? and what kind of quickdraws are best for a novice sport climber? Oli.
To bail from a pure trad route you've got to build your own bomber anchor and use that to either be lowered off of (if enough rope remains) or to rap from. You will be leaving gear. Don't be stingy either. A $60 cam, couple of nuts, biners and slings are cheap compared to falling to your death or great injury. You can then probably clean the rest of your gear on the way down unless you've passed some heinous roofs or traverses or something.
When you're first starting to lead though, don't lead ANYTHING you can't comfortably downclimb. Then you won't run into the "20 feet over your last piece pumping out on blank overhanging wall" situation. Until later.... :twisted:
From the top you'll be abseiling down on two strands of rope. Pull one to get your rope back.... I must not understand the question...?
Sport climbing? What's that? :P
Get and read Freedom of the Hills and Long's "Climbing Anchors" book before you give it a shot....
-Fear
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olipab
Nov 16, 2004, 8:26 AM
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hi, thanks for your help, sport climbing is the english word for a bolted route, where you just put the quickdraws in. i will get that book and i think i best go on a course or something, thanks again.
Oli
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captainmank
Nov 16, 2004, 11:58 AM
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In addition to reading the suggested books and doing a course I'd also recommend spending time seconding for an experienced leader.
That way you get practical experience with gear placements, anchors and rapping off before you are on the sharp end.
Not sure how it works in the UK but here people hook up at the crag, the gym or via forums such as this. Most climbers I know are happy to have someone new 2nd for them.
As long as you know how to belay....8)
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studuk2000
Nov 16, 2004, 12:25 PM
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if youve been top roping outside i presume u must know someone who can teach you to lead otherwise you would have difficulties setting up tr anchors. best way to learn how to place gear is to second a route behind a good leader and criticise their placements (good and bad points about each one) after that its all down to good old experience. for you first lead i would suggest something that you could walk up with both hands behind your back so you can concetrate fully on gear placement. if your around london area will be happy to hook up sometime and show you.
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 16, 2004, 6:04 PM
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In reply to: hi, thanks for your help, sport climbing is the english word for a bolted route, where you just put the quickdraws in. Oli
Fear was trying to be sarcastic when he asked what sport climbing was. That means he climbs trad and thinks sport climbing is for weenies. Just ignore him.
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dirtineye
Nov 16, 2004, 6:53 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: hi, thanks for your help, sport climbing is the english word for a bolted route, where you just put the quickdraws in. Oli Fear was trying to be sarcastic when he asked what sport climbing was. That means he climbs trad and thinks sport climbing is for weenies. Just ignore him.
Sport climbing is for weenies. Real climbers climb over stuff that wouldn't hold a pop corn fart. And like it.
THe first reply gave good advice BTW.
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caughtinside
Nov 16, 2004, 6:57 PM
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Oh, I should have said something to Peter Croft when I saw him sport climbing in Owens River Gorge last weekend. Weenie! 8^)
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dirtineye
Nov 16, 2004, 7:11 PM
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In reply to: Oh, I should have said something to Peter Croft when I saw him sport climbing in Owens River Gorge last weekend. Weenie! 8^)
YOU probably didn't notice that he was sawing all the bolts halfway through, to make it more challenging, now did you?
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caughtinside
Nov 16, 2004, 7:14 PM
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Nope, but I did see that he was credited for FA's of several bolted climbs. I also saw him checking out the hotties I was climbing with. 8^)
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dirtineye
Nov 16, 2004, 7:24 PM
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NObody dooubts that you will find more women sport climbing that gear climbing, that's why all the WEENIES are sport climbing as well.
After all, every weeinie wants a hot girl, right?
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caughtinside
Nov 16, 2004, 7:32 PM
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In reply to: After all, every weeinie wants a hot girl, right?
You are correct, sir. 8^)
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sarcat
Nov 16, 2004, 8:31 PM
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I have a hot girl. What's wrong with that?
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blueeyedclimber
Nov 17, 2004, 2:14 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: In reply to: hi, thanks for your help, sport climbing is the english word for a bolted route, where you just put the quickdraws in. Oli Fear was trying to be sarcastic when he asked what sport climbing was. That means he climbs trad and thinks sport climbing is for weenies. Just ignore him. Sport climbing is for weenies. Real climbers climb over stuff that wouldn't hold a pop corn fart. And like it. THe first reply gave good advice BTW.
What if I do trad and sport? Does that make we a weenie or does that just mean that I look good with my shirt off when i do trad? And am I allowed to wear my beanie when I do trad? And how about this, if I am on a trad route and I come across a bolt, am I allowed to clip it? So many questions, so few trad non-weenies to answer them.
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j_ung
Nov 17, 2004, 2:52 PM
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I often wear a beanie when climbing t-RAD.
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eray01
Nov 25, 2004, 5:21 PM
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If you don't know the answer to these questions you're far from being ready to lead.
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