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symbiosissol
Nov 7, 2004, 11:44 PM
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I am looking for a new pair of climbing shoes. I Currently have a pair of 42.5 (euro) La Sportiva Miura's. I wear a US size 11.5 and have narrow feet so I have always had lace-ups. I do not want a pair of mocassons since all of those shoes I have tried on tend to have a lot of zero contact points. My shoes are snug and tight, but I have been told are way too big if I want a high performance bouldering shoe. I tried on a friends 37.5 La Sportiva Katana's. I swore I wouldnt be able to fit in a shoe 5 sizes smaller then mine, but my feet went in. Dispite being rather painful, they were awesome on the wall, which is what I'm looking for...performace not comfort. I am thinking about going with a size 38, the 37.5's were simply a little too painful I suppose. Another bouldering friend told me that if i could fit my foot in it, it was the right size. That sounds great and all, but I guess im looking for a slightly more logical way to find the right shoe. There arent any stores close-by where I can try on a range of sizes so I will be buying from online. How will the Katana's last, will i need often re-soleing or will the rubber seperate from the upper? I will be using these only for indoor bouldering. I tend to climb 3 or 4 times a week, for a few hours each time.
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shiva523
Nov 7, 2004, 11:58 PM
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I just bought a pair of mad rock loco's for bouldering. The curved foot is especially great for bouldering and attacking steep overhangs. Another great aspect of the shos is the downturned toe, which provides for a claw-like grip on the rock. I'm very impressed with the performance of the shoe; hell, they were even the editor's choice for velcros in the june issue of climbing magazine. Similar to you, I like my shoes extremely tight. My current anasazi velcros are 2.5 sizes too small. The loco's, however, barely stretch and the curved design provides for a tighter feel, so I bought mine only 1.5 sizes too small. Hope this was helpful. Good luck
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speedyz2
Nov 8, 2004, 12:11 AM
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well from what i have read and everything the Evolv Predator is an awesome shoe for bouldering, as well as the mad rock loco. personally i like the evolv brand and would go with them, but its up to you. if you decide on the evolv'sm they DO NOT stretch and have the BEST customer service possible. anyway, hope this was at least somewhat helpful.
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korntera
Nov 8, 2004, 12:22 AM
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I have a pair of sportiva cliffs for longer climbs and sport clims but soon i hope to get a pair of locos. Those seem to be the shoe to get for bouldering and for not wanting to spend a lot of money.
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lizardchick
Nov 8, 2004, 1:15 AM
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One of my friends raves over his Montrail Tattoos. They won't be good for outside bouldering because the shoe is black and dark blue and thus HOT, but he loves them for the gym.
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andy_reagan
Nov 8, 2004, 2:17 AM
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Is this a shoe thread? :oops:
I would choose a shoe that best fits you. Too small and you will be having trouble with it. A painful shoe isn't going to help you send that boulder problem you were having difficulty previously climbing. A well fitting and properly designed shoe, however, that won't fall apart within a season of use, will aid you better than the latest gimmicky piece of crap, imo.
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caveman
Nov 8, 2004, 2:43 AM
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definitily slippers for bouldering. i had a pair of sportiva cobras, and they were the best shoes I've ever had. DO NOT BUY MADROCKS, they'll last you about a month before they blow out, my cobras lasted a really long time, and they're just as sticky as madrubber or stealth.
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monkeyarm
Nov 8, 2004, 3:30 AM
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My madrocks last just fine, some people need to just stop dragging their toes, I had a pair of madrock hookers and they were a narrow fit on me, so they may work for you
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climbtothebeet
Nov 8, 2004, 4:08 AM
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Registered: Jan 31, 2004
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go to a store, buy the cheepest pair, walk out the door, and climb.
imgetting super sick of shoe threads
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symbiosissol
Nov 9, 2004, 1:18 AM
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well I'm not sure what came over me, just felt the need to forget all logic and spend some cash. I just bought a pair of Bufo V-Machine's. Here they all in all their glory (I hope)
http://www.rockclimbing.com/gear/product.php?p=1041&list=1
I really dont know much....well anything, about them expect what I have read in gear reviews on a few sites, they come in the mail in a few days. I spoke with customer service, very helpful, and I got to listen to that great Canadian Accent. I'm still a bit nervious about getting the right size since I have never tried on a pair of Bufo's before, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Whatever happens, I will still keep my Miura's close by at all times, still great shoes, but perhaps a little too big...or is that not small enough? Hopefully the V-Machines fit and perform correctly.
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greyicewater
Nov 9, 2004, 5:42 PM
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as many others have got, i've got the anasazi velcros... i was wondering about the new mad rocks though. does anyone know how those climb?
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ikellen
Nov 9, 2004, 7:44 PM
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I've got the Loco's. A word of warning, they are much more snugger in the same sizes than other shoes i.e my locos are size 11 and my montrail cruisers are size 11. The cruizers I could wear all day no problems, while the locos I have to take off after 2-3 problems. They do climb awesome though, and I havent noticed too many durability issues yet.
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goodwholesomeboy
Nov 16, 2004, 7:51 AM
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i really like my pair of the venoms, but get them about a half size small. they shrink about a half size.
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overlord
Nov 16, 2004, 12:28 PM
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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get some velcros. katanas are good, as are anasazis and flash. no need to go 5 sizes down though.
the venoms are really cool slippers. but i dont like slippers.
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studiggity
Nov 16, 2004, 1:46 PM
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I am on my second pair of venoms and still liking them. Be sure you get them small though because they do stretch. They lack a bit in the heel hooking arena but the toe make up for it in my opinion. I am still searching for the perfect shoe but so far the venom is as close as I have gotten.
I also have climbed in Montrail Zellots, Anastazi velcros, and Mad Rock Locos. Zellots are way underrated and I was quite happy with them - I'd get another pair. The Anastazis are WAY overrated in my opinion. They are too stiff for bouldering, have a terrible and boxy toe, have a freaking giant hard to use heel, cost way too much, AND the synthetic lining will smell so bad you might vomit when you smell it after just a few months of wear. The locos were a huge disappointment as well for me. The toe was really boxy and unwieldy after being accustomed to climbing in venoms. I also found the shoe to be too stiff and unresponsive.
I am going to rant on Five Ten for a second. When I first started climbing I wanted to try Five Tens because that was what all the pro were wearing. I figured if they can work for them then they can work for me. However, that turned out to be total crap. Five Ten is just really good at getting really good climbers to sign exclusive deals with them. I have not been a fan of their shoes lately. In fact the only shoe that they have made recently that looks really cool is the dragon and they went and discontinued it. Maybe the V10 with the rubber toe will be decent but why wait around for that when I can already get all that they have to offer by buying a pair of venoms. I'm not convinced that the pros that have to wear five tens like them all that much either.
I forgot my point
Stuart
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symbiosissol
Nov 16, 2004, 7:04 PM
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Well the Bufo V-Machines came in the mail the other day. I was a little apprehensive reguarding finding the correct fit since I did not have the opportunity to try them on before purchasing. Luckly however, the size 40 (euro) are great. My Miura's are 42.5 and are just a little too big. The toe box is shaped very well to my feet and there are little to no gaps around the heel. The shoes edge well, but different from my Miura's. It took a little time to find out just where they work and where they dont, but I dont see this as a problem. The rubber is actually stickier then what I expected and what I was told. I guess people assume that since the Bufo gym rental shoes are indestructible and hard as a rock those would be too. I think the v-machine rubber is stickier then the Miura's. After about an hour or so of hard climbing my big toes were a bit numb and my feet had a slight tint of orange. Overall dispite being a little painfull (but every shoe I have had were painfull the first time I wore them) I am very happy with these shoes. Anyone who hasnt considered or heard of the Bufo V-Machines should give them a strong look.
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katanaman
Nov 17, 2004, 3:28 AM
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Registered: Mar 31, 2004
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katanas are sweet, ive had my pair for about a season, alot of climbing involving strange toe hooks and weird jamming of the leg in general, i don't climb ALOT, so they wore out quicker then i expected, but man the performance is so worth it. They fit like a glove and the heel is sweet.
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bensnyder
Nov 17, 2004, 3:37 AM
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Registered: Sep 18, 2004
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For bouldering you can't beat Cobras! I have them and they rock. I downsized mine about three sizes and they fit very nicely now (size 8 street shoe to size 5 cobras). Plus, they make your feet orange...
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bucephalus
Nov 17, 2004, 8:32 AM
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Registered: Feb 12, 2004
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The most important thing about buying new shoes, especially for bouldering, is fit. I find that 5.10 Anasazi laceups and V10s fit me perfectly, but Anasazi Velcros suck. Mad Rocks don't fit me properly either. Cobras fit OK, but not perfect until they've been resized.
In terms of sizing, I wear US size 13 street shoe, and:
(a) Euro 39 in Cobras
(b) US 12 in 5.10s (although I suppose the V10s should probably be US 13 - they're so tight I can barely wear them).
That said, I have messed up, weirdly shaped feet.
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tangboy
Dec 5, 2004, 8:08 PM
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Registered: Apr 4, 2001
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Well after reading forum after forum about shoes, type of climbing... i feel i have to vent a bit. sporters think bouldering sucks, trad think top roping sucks, boulderers thinks everything sucks, those who love anasazis think that anything scarpa sucks, madrocks thinks this sucks etc etc. main point... yes i use anasazis and i thnk that scarpas dont fit my feet, would i tell someone that scarpas thus suck and they shouldn't try them? or since i am a boulderer and lack the endurance for big walling i should say sport, trad, and other roping climbs suck and should never try! no... i think that i am not that good at some areas and do not enjoy them, and i think that my vel sazis fit likea glove and i can hike in them but im gonna say this... you have to find what works for you... heed peopls advice, but dont take everything they say as fact. if someone says "Scarpa sucks dont buy them", go and do some research on it yourself find out what does stink about scarpa or 5.10 or boreal etc... and of course... take my humble opinions witha grain of salt too... my word is by no stretch fact... just another person saying that he is a boulderer and loves his sazis :)
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xcmntgeek
Dec 5, 2004, 8:52 PM
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Registered: Sep 4, 2004
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my .02...
I've climbed in a pair of La Sportiva Mythos for about a year, they're snug but comy- great all day trad shoes and they're not holding me back on most sport routes. I got a pair of MadRock Mugens for bouldering and so far I really like them. I did the whole "smallest shoe I could fit into" thing and I like them- just not as my only pair of shoes.
To me, they edge well and fit my feet perfectly. They lacka little in smearing but that's probably because they're really small (size 9 compared to 11.5 sportiva)
Buy what fits you, I really wanted a pair of Venoms but the MadRocks were 1/2 the price....
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ron_burgandy
Dec 7, 2004, 7:35 AM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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when i go bouldering i rock my La Sportiva Venoms- and damn are they sweet. everything from smearing to pockets to toe and heel hooks (not the best for edging- but that is what by Boreal Zens are for). a bit of advice get em smaller than you fell is comfortable in the store they do strech quite a bit- otherwise a solid set of rubber
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jcshaggy
Dec 7, 2004, 12:21 PM
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Registered: Jun 4, 2004
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Stealth rubber is the way to go-just re-sole an old pair of comfy shoes or buy five ten's.
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grimpiperx
Dec 21, 2004, 2:10 AM
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Registered: May 30, 2004
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Get MadRock Mugens they are awsome, edge like crazy, cheap, look at its Toe rand compared to the Anasazi Slipper they are pretty much the same.
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