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Genetics and tendon strength...
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bensnyder


Nov 18, 2004, 8:37 PM
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Genetics and tendon strength...
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I was doing a genetics activity in my biology class today and my teacher pointed out an interesting trait some people have. Curl your hand inward and look at how many tendons pop out. I figured everybody had three there but it turns out that isn't the case. According to the laws of genetics, about 25% of everybody out there should have three obvious tendons, while the remaining 75% should only have two. Out of sheer curiosity, how many tendons do you have in your forearm? What difficulty climbs do you do? I'm just wondering if there's any correlation between the two...


dingus


Nov 18, 2004, 8:40 PM
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I don't quite get how to do the examination you wrote about? I don't see no stinking tendons, maybe I have none?

DMT


davidji


Nov 18, 2004, 8:45 PM
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In reply to:
I don't quite get how to do the examination you wrote about? I don't see no stinking tendons, maybe I have none?

DMT
Another datapoint then. How hard do you climb (with none)?

I think he meant tendons on the inside of your wrist.


dingus


Nov 18, 2004, 8:48 PM
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In reply to:
In reply to:
I don't quite get how to do the examination you wrote about? I don't see no stinking tendons, maybe I have none?

DMT
Another datapoint then. How hard do you climb (with none)?

I think he meant tendons on the inside of your wrist.

Why, as hard as I can! Sometimes anyway...

DMT


cloudbreak


Nov 18, 2004, 9:32 PM
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I have 3, and I can smoke up any Class 4 that comes my way. Wait a minute, I think I have 4.


andy_reagan


Nov 18, 2004, 9:53 PM
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Eleventeen.


braaaaaaaadley


Nov 18, 2004, 9:59 PM
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I have 3 tendons... climb hard ten's- 11.a pretty consistantly. This is an interesting thread... too bad no one is taking it sereously.


keinangst


Nov 18, 2004, 10:15 PM
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It looks like I have three, but they are of varying height. It might be just two, since the third one seems pretty sunken, but I can feel it.

I had an old friend who was a sports therapist and he told me about this. It apparently doesn't mean too much, since people with 2 can be just as strong, the 2 tendons just have to take on more work.


valeberga


Nov 18, 2004, 10:35 PM
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I thought this post would be about finger tendons, not wrist tendons. Aren't the finger tendons the limiting factor? Speaking of which I just gave myself tendonitis at the first knuckle on both middle fingers, it started with fingertip pullups and was aggravated by bouldering at my limit. So I climb V4ish or 5.11+/12-, I must be reaching my threshold of finger injury. Those wrist tendons are fine though! :D


Partner robdotcalm


Nov 18, 2004, 10:39 PM
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3 on my left forearm and 2 on the right forearm. I'm right handed.
rob.calm


pushsendnorcal


Nov 19, 2004, 12:00 AM
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Its pretty irrelevant how many tendons you might have. The concern here is where the tendon is placed on the bone. Its all about leverage


t-dog
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Nov 19, 2004, 1:19 AM
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I think I've got 3, although the 3rd one seems to be quite a slacker and doesn't show up as much :D


lazyjammin


Nov 19, 2004, 1:31 AM
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Ive got three and can climb 11+ sport. My brother (I imagine has similar amount of tendons) and he can pull down hard 12 easy 13.


jaron


Nov 19, 2004, 3:58 AM
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There is very very little variation on where tendons insert. The palmaris longus has nothing to do with finger strength because it inserts onto the flexor retinaculum (tendon over your palm). The flexor carpi radialis and ulnaris insert onto the carpals and proximal metacarpals, so the physics tell us they have almost nothing to hand strength. The tendons that are relevant actually occur under the tendons that we are seeing, these are called the flexor digitorum superficialis and profundus. These are the culprits to the deep burning sensation that you feel as you work through the crux. They work both the strength on the crimpers and the slopers. So the good news is that my little palmaris longus has nothing to do with my climbing potential!
Wish I were climbing more!
Jaron
Texas A and M med school


icarus_burned


Nov 23, 2004, 11:38 AM
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assuming finger tendons are the ones being looked for, wouldnt it be safe to assume you have 5 (seen or unseen) maybe not the case but i would have though 5 digits equal 5 tendons, as for wrist tendons i have 1 big (possibly 2 or 3 really close together) thick one in my left and 3 in my right


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